That settles that.Actually i was at bob's and have seen this first hand. There are several advantages such as tighter tollerances more glue options larger wall thickness of the core wood at the A joint (if you drill your hole into the forearm). I am still on the fence though if the benefits outway the extra work and tooling costs. I don't know if any of the small cue lathes could handle the task. Bob says it's pretty rough on his enco.
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I am still on the fence though if the benefits outway the extra work and tooling costs. I don't know if any of the small cue lathes could handle the task. Bob says it's pretty rough on his enco.
That settles that.
No metal lathe, no go for some.
He is gundrilling all the way with .625 then partway with .75 then reaming. I don't think it's a power problem i think its a chatter problem. Over 13 inches hanging from the tailstock and removing a lot of wood where reamers are designed to remove small amounts of materialThe ability to use TiteBond wood glue is enough benefit to justify it to me. As for power, I'd think a proper pilot hole would eliminate any load stress on the machine. I cannot imagine any scenario where machining wood could bog down a machine lathe, unless the cutter is ridiculously dull.
I used to hear the same stuff about coring with gun drills.
Can't grab the drill and use hand as steady rest on this drill.He is gundrilling all the way with .625 then partway with .75 then reaming. I don't think it's a power problem i think its a chatter problem. Over 13 inches hanging from the tailstock and removing a lot of wood where reamers are designed to remove small amounts of material
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He is gundrilling all the way with .625 then partway with .75 then reaming. I don't think it's a power problem i think its a chatter problem. Over 13 inches hanging from the tailstock and removing a lot of wood where reamers are designed to remove small amounts of material
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The ability to use TiteBond wood glue is enough benefit to justify it to me. As for power, I'd think a proper pilot hole would eliminate any load stress on the machine. I cannot imagine any scenario where machining wood could bog down a machine lathe, unless the cutter is ridiculously dull.
Total length 16 inches. 14 inches of reamer. HSS 3 flute, right hand flutes, not air cooled. I figure if I need to I can blow air in the far end while reaming since it's not a blind hole. 1/2 inch shank, two inches long. Small end of
Originally Posted by whammo57 View Post
total nonsense ........... no value added............. put a straight core in it
Kim
He is gundrilling all the way with .625 then partway with .75 then reaming. I don't think it's a power problem i think its a chatter problem. Over 13 inches hanging from the tailstock and removing a lot of wood where reamers are designed to remove small amounts of material
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I would suggest a 7* relief angle if possible. Otherwise the specs sound perfect. Does he also make them in the 3/4" range?
Ah gotcha. That makes more sense than being power starved. In that case, chucking the back end of the blank while supporting the front with a bearing rest should go a long way in alleviating chatter.
Food for thought, but I see a potential flaw. It's tough to tell from the pic, but the relief angle on that reamer looks more conducive to metal cutting than it does wood. The relief angle for woodworking cutters is generally a lot steeper, allowing the edge to aggressively dig in and peel wood away. Metal cutter reliefs have less degree pitch. By comparison, metal cutters scrape where wood cutters peel. This could very well be the root of the chatter issue.
I have a sawmill. When I am cutting softer woods such as pine or cedar, I get the best cuts using a blade with 10* relief angle. For woods like maple I use 7*. For osage or dry white oak, 4* cuts best. Using 10* blades on an osage log won't work well because the teeth dig in and grab too aggressively, which not only causes the engine to bog but also very quickly dulls the blade. On the flip, using a 4* blade on pine is slow, clogs up the gullet with fine powder dust, and the resulting heat causes the blade to lose its set. Having the correct relief angle for the material being cut is critical in getting a clean, smooth cut and long blade life. This is nuts & bolts basic knowledge with saw milling, but not so much for cue making. A whole lot of the tooling we use is re-purposed machine tools & bits, and as such has a default grind for cutting metals. I regrind everything for a relief more suitable for wood. I wonder how many other builders do the same, or how many are either unaware of the difference or unaware of how significant the difference is. Having a custom cutter made by a shop who specializes in tool/die making would more than likely result in a tool that is ground for machining metal, not wood. You'd have to specify the relief you want or else trust that the machinist understands woodworking & will give it the proper relief. Otherwise you have a woodworking tool designed for metal.
I think you are forgetting something. A drill is cutting only at the end a tapered reamer is cutting along the entire length of the reamer. In our case that is over 12", that means you have a huge surface engaged with the cutter. So yes having a rigid and strong machine is the way to go. In your example the long tapered reamer is taking a much larger cut that your 3/4" drill.
Curious to hear how things work out for you.