I'll defer to the guys with more cue experience whether taper is advisable or not. Still reading and learning on that score.
Have yet to even core one straight, though most of the equipment & drills are on hand for when mood and round to-its coincide.
AFA glues, I like titebond a lot, too.
But i avoid using it in any critical assembly where the glue can be involved in a large proportion of the area.
This is because it puts a lot of moisture into the assembly that can take a long time to be removed (postpone machining ops for days or even weeks on critical parts) & it puts enough in to actually swell parts that may tend to dry into a slightly different shape (warp). Even to put the glue into a complex assembly requires excess (of titebond) or it will dry in spots before the parts are fully assembled. Slop it in, slather around quickly , assemble and squeeze out the excess before the parts seize up. However a lot of the reason that works is because the joint absorbed excess water from excess glue. WEST does not require an excess, and puts absolutely no moisture into a joint. So (in my case) even thick, wide laminations with multiple thin layers don't distort much and can be machined within a couple days or so. Even overnight for non-critical assemblies.
If a routine op is a specific deep taper. grinding a tapered bar to accommodate can be a way to get less deflection for length, compared to the smaller diameter straight bar necessary to fit all the way to the small diameter of the bore. If the taper is exceptionally shallow, it might or might not be worth the effort; though very small increases in diameter make large improvements in stiffness. In sets of bars for an off-set boring head, it is not uncommon for some to be tapered. In that case part of the reason is that the deflection is nearly the same as a straight bar with the same base diameter, but inertia is lower, for less imbalance as the offset is increased.
smt
Have yet to even core one straight, though most of the equipment & drills are on hand for when mood and round to-its coincide.
AFA glues, I like titebond a lot, too.
But i avoid using it in any critical assembly where the glue can be involved in a large proportion of the area.
This is because it puts a lot of moisture into the assembly that can take a long time to be removed (postpone machining ops for days or even weeks on critical parts) & it puts enough in to actually swell parts that may tend to dry into a slightly different shape (warp). Even to put the glue into a complex assembly requires excess (of titebond) or it will dry in spots before the parts are fully assembled. Slop it in, slather around quickly , assemble and squeeze out the excess before the parts seize up. However a lot of the reason that works is because the joint absorbed excess water from excess glue. WEST does not require an excess, and puts absolutely no moisture into a joint. So (in my case) even thick, wide laminations with multiple thin layers don't distort much and can be machined within a couple days or so. Even overnight for non-critical assemblies.
If a routine op is a specific deep taper. grinding a tapered bar to accommodate can be a way to get less deflection for length, compared to the smaller diameter straight bar necessary to fit all the way to the small diameter of the bore. If the taper is exceptionally shallow, it might or might not be worth the effort; though very small increases in diameter make large improvements in stiffness. In sets of bars for an off-set boring head, it is not uncommon for some to be tapered. In that case part of the reason is that the deflection is nearly the same as a straight bar with the same base diameter, but inertia is lower, for less imbalance as the offset is increased.
smt
