Tell me the easiest way Please

poolcuemaster

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
One of my league players snapped the 3/8 10 brass pin off even with the forearm tonight on my break cue. The thread is jagged but I think I can put it in the lathe and shave the pin end smooth so I can centerdrill it.

Should I drill a couple inches in the pin and heat the pin and try a mechanics easyout or just drill the pin out and bore and core the hole for a new pin installation ?

There is a small collar with a slotted trim ring but I can make a matching ring or maybe save this one if I can heat it with a soldering iron. I'm sure it was glued with Epoxy so how much heat will it take, the no wrap fullsplice cue had a great hit and I don't want to ruin it.

Thanks ahead for any help and here is my info for anyone to see


Leonard Holmes
415 Indain Trail Rd. S
Indian Trail NC 28079 704-449-2334
 
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I would just center drill it and then drill it out. Then I would core it out and put a plug in it. Re-drill and tap and put a new pin back in it. Make sure to have it zero'ed out before you start anything at all. I have spent a lot of time trying to center drill and using a easy out after heating the pin for nearly a hour. This is just easier!
 
poolcuemaster said:
One of my league players snapped the 3/8 10 brass pin off even with the forearm tonight on my break cue. The thread is jagged but I think I can put it in the lathe and shave the pin end smooth so I can centerdrill it.

Should I drill a couple inches in the pin and heat the pin and try a mechanics easyout or just drill the pin out and bore and core the hole for a new pin installation ?

There is a small collar with a slotted trim ring but I can make a matching ring or maybe save this one if I can heat it with a soldering iron. I'm sure it was glued with Epoxy so how much heat will it take, the no wrap fullsplice cue had a great hit and I don't want to ruin it.

Thanks ahead for any help and here is my info for anyone to see


Leonard Holmes
415 Indain Trail Rd. S
Indian Trail NC 28079 704-449-2334
i was just about to ask you for a pic of it, when az went down yesterday
hell, you probably fixed her already by now ;)
i had one similar situation
there was just enough left of the pin that i could get visegrips onto it
locked them down and heated the visegrips with a torch, transferring the heat to pin
didnt take long, 5+ minutes maybe and doesnt run the risk of screwing up the finish with the torch
if not enough pin left to do that, i'd cut a slot into it, with a dremel cutter, like a screwdriver slot, same procedure, heat the screwdriver blade
i had to do that with a frozen stripped wieght bolt once
 
If your going from a 3/8X10 to a 3/8X10. Why would you have to plug it, I would drill about a 1/2 inch, heat the end of the easy out,
 
If you go slow enough you can use a left hand drill and the heat caused by the drill may be enough to break the bond with the epoxy. Depends on the glue.
 
RocketQ said:
If you go slow enough you can use a left hand drill and the heat caused by the drill may be enough to break the bond with the epoxy. Depends on the glue.
done that too, but standard bit, run in reverse
by the time he reads all this stuff, he'll have it fixed :D
 
poolcuemaster said:
One of my league players snapped the 3/8 10 brass pin off even with the forearm tonight on my break cue.
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Leonard Holmes
415 Indain Trail Rd. S
Indian Trail NC 28079 704-449-2334

Don't forget the most important part Leonard. Don't EVER let this guy use your break (or any other) cue again! :D
 
Ease it out... Like a gentleman.

I say if you can heat and unscrew do that. I usually let the cue sit overnight then redrill and retap so the old epoxy dries. In other words I've gotten away without plugging and it came out perfect

I just drilled out a brass pilot. Centerdrill and step drill.

Either way would work but pics might help.
 
Being an autotech for 36 years I've got left hand bits and every design of easy out ever made and have broken off a few easy outs and had to carbide burr them out which ain't no fun. But I will try the easy out with heat first and then 5/16 drill left handed Snap-on drill out and then ------still thinkin----Leonard
 
poolcuemaster said:
Being an autotech for 36 years I've got left hand bits and every design of easy out ever made and have broken off a few easy outs and had to carbide burr them out which ain't no fun. But I will try the easy out with heat first and then 5/16 drill left handed Snap-on drill out and then ------still thinkin----Leonard

How about a 3/16 drill so you don't break the screw anymore than it is, then heat and easy out. Brass heats quick.
 
> If this was me,not only would he be responsible for getting my cue fixed,he'd also have WORN it. Tommy D.
 
Michael Webb said:
If your going from a 3/8X10 to a 3/8X10. Why would you have to plug it, I would drill about a 1/2 inch, heat the end of the easy out,

This is what I would do.
 
poolcuemaster said:
One of my league players snapped the 3/8 10 brass pin off even with the forearm tonight on my break cue. The thread is jagged but I think I can put it in the lathe and shave the pin end smooth so I can centerdrill it.

Thanks ahead for any help and here is my info for anyone to see

Leonard Holmes
415 Indain Trail Rd. S
Indian Trail NC 28079 704-449-2334

I would drill it and then use a soldering iron to heat it. This gives you a lot of control over how much heat it gets. I usually put my hand around the collar and can then feel how hot the wood is getting. I then turn it out with an easy out.
 
bits

BHQ said:
done that too, but standard bit, run in reverse
by the time he reads all this stuff, he'll have it fixed :D
Ya I just don't like sharpening bits. I haven't bought that darex drill sharpener I have been wanting.
 
No it was not stainless steel it was brass and he tripped into his break and the pin broke instead of the shaft, SS pin would have broken wood somewhere. Anyone can trip over there own feet I guess so why be mad about spilt milk when you still have the cow (cue) ?--Leonard
 
Mase said:
I would drill it and then use a soldering iron to heat it. This gives you a lot of control over how much heat it gets. I usually put my hand around the collar and can then feel how hot the wood is getting. I then turn it out with an easy out.

Seems like the safest way to me.....

<~~~but what do I know.........
 
I broke a pin in a break cue. Fluke thing I guess. Sometimes ppl lay on the shaft and after the break bend it all up. That could do it.
 
poolcuemaster said:
No it was not stainless steel it was brass and he tripped into his break and the pin broke instead of the shaft, SS pin would have broken wood somewhere. Anyone can trip over there own feet I guess so why be mad about spilt milk when you still have the cow (cue) ?--Leonard

Well at least it was an accident, I had to replace a forearm on one of my cues recently after the owner got a little frustrated and apparently swung it like a baseball bat in the heat of the moment and split the forearm diagonally from the base of the joint pin. That one spent a little time in the cue hospital and required some major surgery but it's back in the game.
 
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