What about jumping, does that fall under #2 (or look at OB last) ?
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thank you to CJ Wiley for teaching, learning, growing and sharing!
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What about jumping, does that fall under #2 (or look at OB last) ?
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43 chapters on this particular technique.
There's nothing "in stone" under #2 - if the jump shot is easy I'll look at the object ball last, if the jump shot is difficult I'll sometimes look at the cue ball last.
It's the same with shooting off the rail, if the cue-ball is the priority (position/safety wise) I'll look at the cue ball last and if the object ball is the priority (long shots especially) I'll still look at the object ball last.
Looking at the object ball last gives the player a better connection to the object ball and allows their eyes to follow it into the pocket. The pocket is the "final target," so it's important to see where you're hitting it......when possible. The primary target is always the cue ball, the secondary target is the object ball and the final target is the pocket.
The key is to develop the ability to change where the object ball hits the pocket by altering (slightly) where you're contacting the primary target (the cue ball).
I show how this works in the 'Touch of Inside' DVD and more specific detail in the 'TIPS Banking' DVD.......it has 43 chapters on this particular technique. - www.cjwiley.com
There's nothing "in stone" under #2 - if the jump shot is easy I'll look at the object ball last, if the jump shot is difficult I'll sometimes look at the cue ball last.
It's the same with shooting off the rail, if the cue-ball is the priority (position/safety wise) I'll look at the cue ball last and if the object ball is the priority (long shots especially) I'll still look at the object ball last.
Looking at the object ball last gives the player a better connection to the object ball and allows their eyes to follow it into the pocket. The pocket is the "final target," so it's important to see where you're hitting it......when possible. The primary target is always the cue ball, the secondary target is the object ball and the final target is the pocket.
The key is to develop the ability to change where the object ball hits the pocket by altering (slightly) where you're contacting the primary target (the cue ball).
I show how this works in the 'Touch of Inside' DVD and more specific detail in the 'TIPS Banking' DVD.......it has 43 chapters on this particular technique. - www.cjwiley.com
they've been handed down from "road man to road man" for many years
You've come a long way quickly....the techniques you are learning are powerful, they've been handed down from "road man to road man" for many years. I'm happy that you are enjoying the game again, it would have been a shame to give it up.
Play Well, The Game is our Teacher
You've come a long way quickly....the techniques you are learning are powerful, they've been handed down from "road man to road man" for many years. I'm happy that you are enjoying the game again, it would have been a shame to give it up.
Play Well, The Game is our Teacher
You can improve your "Aiming" by developing a "Master Shot"
Some players pursue "mastering" all the shots required in pool and let the situation dictate what shot to use. If it's easiest to use "low/left," with a soft stroke, they do it, if it's easiest to use "high/right" they do it and find themselves hitting different spins and speeds on virtually every shot.
This can work, but it's subconsciously exhausting (from calculating the different speeds, spins, deflection/swerve rates, etc).
For years this was accepted as "the way to play," however, this approach was flawed so subtly it was almost impossible to detect. Players will follow this way of thinking because it "makes sense," however, the "Road Players" knew there was another way to play.....a way that won the cash, no matter what type of equipment, cloth or humidity.
There are two basic philosophies in pocket billiards - one is to "use inside or outside based on the situation," and the other is to make the situation accommodate your best shot (as I show in my TOI video)....in my case it's TOI, although many players favor the TOO (we rarely use "center" except for straight in and "slow rolled" shots).
I would suggest, when trying to improve your overall game that you develop a "master shot" - it's better to be a "master of one," than a "jack of all" (shots). Once you "master" one shot (TOI or TOO) it opens up a new dimension of control - then you can base your shots relative to the "master shot," creating zones, and also increase your margin of error regarding ball pocketing and position play.
Professional Golfers achieve this with Fade and Draw, Tennis Players do it (with topspin, and slice), and Baseball Pitchers have a "master pitch (or go to pitch) they use in critical situations.....'The Games are the Teacher' - www.cjwiley.com
Some players pursue "mastering" all the shots required in pool and let the situation dictate what shot to use. If it's easiest to use "low/left," with a soft stroke, they do it, if it's easiest to use "high/right" they do it and find themselves hitting different spins and speeds on virtually every shot.
This can work, but it's subconsciously exhausting (from calculating the different speeds, spins, deflection/swerve rates, etc).
For years this was accepted as "the way to play," however, this approach was flawed so subtly it was almost impossible to detect. Players will follow this way of thinking because it "makes sense," however, the "Road Players" knew there was another way to play.....a way that won the cash, no matter what type of equipment, cloth or humidity.
There are two basic philosophies in pocket billiards - one is to "use inside or outside based on the situation," and the other is to make the situation accommodate your best shot (as I show in my TOI video)....in my case it's TOI, although many players favor the TOO (we rarely use "center" except for straight in and "slow rolled" shots).
I would suggest, when trying to improve your overall game that you develop a "master shot" - it's better to be a "master of one," than a "jack of all" (shots). Once you "master" one shot (TOI or TOO) it opens up a new dimension of control - then you can base your shots relative to the "master shot," creating zones, and also increase your margin of error regarding ball pocketing and position play.
Professional Golfers achieve this with Fade and Draw, Tennis Players do it (with topspin, and slice), and Baseball Pitchers have a "master pitch (or go to pitch) they use in critical situations.....'The Games are the Teacher' - www.cjwiley.com
c.j.
here is a question
since i dont play your way
to play TOI you have to play to a certain angle cut shot on the the object ball
to allow TOI to get you in position for the next shot
yes??
if so
unless you are a pro and have perfect speed control
what happens if you are ALITTLE OUT OF LINE and you need OUTSIDE english for position????
here is a question
since i dont play your way
to play TOI you have to play to a certain angle cut shot on the the object ball
to allow TOI to get you in position for the next shot
yes??
if so
unless you are a pro and have perfect speed control
what happens if you are ALITTLE OUT OF LINE and you need OUTSIDE english for position????
Basically we've perfected "cheating the pocket"
No, that's not true at all. I do have prefered angles, however, it's quite the opposite, TOI will help you with your shot-making .......the position play is simply using the "TOI angles" that are produced by very little "after contact" spin (TOI shots look like they're floating, rather than spinning across the table) - they are more natural than the ones created by using spin.
I know it's difficult to believe, using TOI doesn't limit your flexibility, it increases it. When a player has only used spin all their life they couldn't possibly know what I'm saying.....even telling people they have trouble because you MUST practice TOI three, solid hours to get any type of revelation.
Basically we've perfected "cheating the pocket" is why I can make these statements. My '3 Part Pocket System' combined with TOI creates a system for cheating the pocket.......and turns it to a highly effective weapon for competition.
No, that's not true at all. I do have prefered angles, however, it's quite the opposite, TOI will help you with your shot-making .......the position play is simply using the "TOI angles" that are produced by very little "after contact" spin (TOI shots look like they're floating, rather than spinning across the table) - they are more natural than the ones created by using spin.
I know it's difficult to believe, using TOI doesn't limit your flexibility, it increases it. When a player has only used spin all their life they couldn't possibly know what I'm saying.....even telling people they have trouble because you MUST practice TOI three, solid hours to get any type of revelation.
Basically we've perfected "cheating the pocket" is why I can make these statements. My '3 Part Pocket System' combined with TOI creates a system for cheating the pocket.......and turns it to a highly effective weapon for competition.
You only Pivot for "outside english" the TOI "Parallel Shift"
A whole new DVD? That's definitely not necessary, it's all explained in the TIPS Banking Secrets - the video is 43 chapters, it's too much to absorb in one sitting...or even 5.
You only Pivot for "outside english" the TOI "Parallel Shift" is for "inside english" on banks, so it's self explanatory, if you need outside english you pivot, if not you shift.
A whole new DVD? That's definitely not necessary, it's all explained in the TIPS Banking Secrets - the video is 43 chapters, it's too much to absorb in one sitting...or even 5.
You only Pivot for "outside english" the TOI "Parallel Shift" is for "inside english" on banks, so it's self explanatory, if you need outside english you pivot, if not you shift.
Thanks CJ
Yeah, I did not mean a whole DVD Vol.2. I guess I 'misspoke'. I guess what I meant was maybe a subpart to a chapter.
I guess what I am referring to is on the more extreme cut back banks, there are times when I seem to either should have used more TOI or should have pivoted to get the benefit of getting a bit less collision induced throw which is in the wrong direction.
I guess I have not subconsciously zeroed in on when to make the change.
Now I hope you know that I'm not thinking like this when shooting them. This is just my attempt to analyse why I did not make a certain cut back bank toward the extreme end
I think my lesson with Gene Albrecht might help with delivering a better execution which might aid the results.
Thanks Again,
Rick
the object ball to hit the center of the pocket when aligning to the inside.
You're making it way to complicated. On thin cuts you should just barely favor the TOI point off center. There's two ways I show to use TOI, both suggested to favor the inside of the pocket when "aiming".
The other is to allow you to experience how much more the object ball will cut when cueing the ball more and more to the inside. This is how I aim, not with my eyes, with my mind, because it controls the body, which influences the shot.
To reach this level you must mentally process how the cue ball is actually moving, and favoring one side of center. Then the guesswork is reduced because you have taken the "other side" of the cue ball "out of play," thus reducing unnecessary calculations.
As a rule my TOI point is slightly off center, I'm just favoring the inside so I can control which way the cue ball will "move"......this is like a baseball pitcher who's fast ball "moves" slightly left, they can then favor the right side of the plate....same idea. You don't want to "throw curve balls," you want the object ball to hit the center of the pocket when aligning to the inside.
This will deflect the ball slightly, any more and you would miss the ball entirely. Remember, thin cuts aren't the same as "full shots," using the TOI to slightly cut "thin cut shots" is redundant and risky to boot.
When closer to the object ball you can go over further to the inside and aim that point to the edge of the object ball......the more you go over to the inside, the more the object ball will cut.....it's just a matter of calibrating those points to the angles, which takes all of 30 minutes.
You're making it way to complicated. On thin cuts you should just barely favor the TOI point off center. There's two ways I show to use TOI, both suggested to favor the inside of the pocket when "aiming".
The other is to allow you to experience how much more the object ball will cut when cueing the ball more and more to the inside. This is how I aim, not with my eyes, with my mind, because it controls the body, which influences the shot.
To reach this level you must mentally process how the cue ball is actually moving, and favoring one side of center. Then the guesswork is reduced because you have taken the "other side" of the cue ball "out of play," thus reducing unnecessary calculations.
As a rule my TOI point is slightly off center, I'm just favoring the inside so I can control which way the cue ball will "move"......this is like a baseball pitcher who's fast ball "moves" slightly left, they can then favor the right side of the plate....same idea. You don't want to "throw curve balls," you want the object ball to hit the center of the pocket when aligning to the inside.
This will deflect the ball slightly, any more and you would miss the ball entirely. Remember, thin cuts aren't the same as "full shots," using the TOI to slightly cut "thin cut shots" is redundant and risky to boot.
When closer to the object ball you can go over further to the inside and aim that point to the edge of the object ball......the more you go over to the inside, the more the object ball will cut.....it's just a matter of calibrating those points to the angles, which takes all of 30 minutes.
CJ,
I'm not sure we're on the same page.
Lets' say for example the game is one pocket & the CB is in your pocket & there is an OB say out a bit past the 2nd.diamond of the long rail on the other side of the table. How would you bank a ball like that back into your pocket form your TOI perspective?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
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the TIP (touch of inside pivot)
Center to edge, plus 2 TIPs -
this is all demonstrated and explained (in the TIP Banking Secrets video) regarding each individual diamond on the table, and how it relates to the TIP (touch of inside pivot).
Center to edge, plus 2 TIPs -
this is all demonstrated and explained (in the TIP Banking Secrets video) regarding each individual diamond on the table, and how it relates to the TIP (touch of inside pivot).
Four rails with the object ball and 3 rails with the cue ball. Pretty simple.
one pocket bank that's good to have in the "pool box".
Yes, this is a great shot playing one pocket.....here's a video of another impressive, one pocket bank that's good to have in the "pool box".
Yes, this is a great shot playing one pocket.....here's a video of another impressive, one pocket bank that's good to have in the "pool box".
Almost without fail they will start missing shots and not understand why.
I focus most of my attention on the cue ball while getting down on the shot, then just glance at the object ball (to make sure it's still there), then back to the cue ball. Then, when I take my back-swing I switch my focus to the object ball and watch it go into the pocket.....I am aware what part of the pocket I hit and calibrate it to how it "feels".
When I slightly undercut or over-cut that shot I will adjust slightly (speed/toi/left foot) for the next shot. My philosophy is that I need to treat all shots the same to reach my highest level, so if I undercut one shot slightly I take it for granted that I will slightly undercut all the future shots. This makes me re calibrate my shots IMMEDIATELY, instead of waiting to actually miss a shot.
After a period (the time differs) I won't have to adjust anymore and will be calibrated to the center of the pocket every time. I see players that are happy just to make the ball, even is it "wobbles in" and don't make any adjustments. Almost without fail they will start missing shots and not understand why.
Usually these misses can be traced back to several shots BEFORE that they nearly missed, and neglected making any adjustments. I believe you need a way to make these adjustments and it sounds like you are aware of some, with speed, more or less TOI, and also firmness of bridge sometimes makes a difference.
Controlling with cue with BOTH HANDS is essential to playing flawless pool. There is very little margin of error, so you must keep the cue on a "groove/slot" so it has no chance of deviating left or right, which will cause "miss" hit shots as well. 'The Game is the Teacher'
I focus most of my attention on the cue ball while getting down on the shot, then just glance at the object ball (to make sure it's still there), then back to the cue ball. Then, when I take my back-swing I switch my focus to the object ball and watch it go into the pocket.....I am aware what part of the pocket I hit and calibrate it to how it "feels".
When I slightly undercut or over-cut that shot I will adjust slightly (speed/toi/left foot) for the next shot. My philosophy is that I need to treat all shots the same to reach my highest level, so if I undercut one shot slightly I take it for granted that I will slightly undercut all the future shots. This makes me re calibrate my shots IMMEDIATELY, instead of waiting to actually miss a shot.
After a period (the time differs) I won't have to adjust anymore and will be calibrated to the center of the pocket every time. I see players that are happy just to make the ball, even is it "wobbles in" and don't make any adjustments. Almost without fail they will start missing shots and not understand why.
Usually these misses can be traced back to several shots BEFORE that they nearly missed, and neglected making any adjustments. I believe you need a way to make these adjustments and it sounds like you are aware of some, with speed, more or less TOI, and also firmness of bridge sometimes makes a difference.
Controlling with cue with BOTH HANDS is essential to playing flawless pool. There is very little margin of error, so you must keep the cue on a "groove/slot" so it has no chance of deviating left or right, which will cause "miss" hit shots as well. 'The Game is the Teacher'
Thick skin, or bullet proof skin, I'm still not sure which
Thick skin, or bullet proof skin, I'm still not sure which.
I wish there were some other pros that could post, it would make it a lot more fun.
Thick skin, or bullet proof skin, I'm still not sure which.
I wish there were some other pros that could post, it would make it a lot more fun.
CJ Wiley,
My Father thanks you, my Mother thanks you, my brother & sisters thank you...& I thank you.
Yes... some on AZB think the site to be like their own personal private home & that they can dictate exactly what the content can & can't be & exactly how much of each type of content, 'that they allow' can exist too.
Then... if it is not exactly to their liking, they think they can & should shoot whoever THEY do not like down with a shotgun or an AK-47 as though he or she were a home invader & to HELL with the rest of US that may want that content.
IMO, you've done super extremely well in the tolerance & restraint departments.
To be honest, I think some here on AZB do NOT want ANY Pros posting anything, because if there is a high quality Pro posting here then it takes them down a notch & THEY simply do not like that.
Some just can't seem to differentiate the difference between confidence in one's self & an arrogant ego that really does no one any good.
Some also don't seem to see the hypocrisy in themselves when they accuse others of narcissism.
Some also do not understand that just because they are of the strong & silent type that there are others out there that are strong & not so silent. If everyone were of the silent nature there would be very little communication in the world.
It would be like, 'he said something that I did not like, oh well, I guess I'll just kill him'.
Anyway, I & many others do appreciate you being here on AZB & all that you have contributed & hopefully will continue to contribute. I for one missed you when you got a bit busy & sort of went 'silent'.
Thanks Again & I'm waiting for the 'next big thing' to be released.
Best Wishes & Much Success,
Rick
PS You're not force feeding anyone. If they don't like you for whatever reason, they can just skip right over your posts & those of whom are communicating with you.
My Father thanks you, my Mother thanks you, my brother & sisters thank you...& I thank you.
Yes... some on AZB think the site to be like their own personal private home & that they can dictate exactly what the content can & can't be & exactly how much of each type of content, 'that they allow' can exist too.
Then... if it is not exactly to their liking, they think they can & should shoot whoever THEY do not like down with a shotgun or an AK-47 as though he or she were a home invader & to HELL with the rest of US that may want that content.
IMO, you've done super extremely well in the tolerance & restraint departments.
To be honest, I think some here on AZB do NOT want ANY Pros posting anything, because if there is a high quality Pro posting here then it takes them down a notch & THEY simply do not like that.
Some just can't seem to differentiate the difference between confidence in one's self & an arrogant ego that really does no one any good.
Some also don't seem to see the hypocrisy in themselves when they accuse others of narcissism.
Some also do not understand that just because they are of the strong & silent type that there are others out there that are strong & not so silent. If everyone were of the silent nature there would be very little communication in the world.
It would be like, 'he said something that I did not like, oh well, I guess I'll just kill him'.
Anyway, I & many others do appreciate you being here on AZB & all that you have contributed & hopefully will continue to contribute. I for one missed you when you got a bit busy & sort of went 'silent'.
Thanks Again & I'm waiting for the 'next big thing' to be released.
Best Wishes & Much Success,
Rick
PS You're not force feeding anyone. If they don't like you for whatever reason, they can just skip right over your posts & those of whom are communicating with you.
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Hey, great self description of your arrogant ego that really does no one any good.
But you get a gold star on your forehead for the HYPOCRISY part when describing force feeding and if they don't like someone can skip right over the posts and those of whom are communicating with others of like minds.
The hypocrisy is you don't take YOUR OWN ADVICE when it comes to anything regarding CTE, Stan, and those who GET IT. You can just skip over the posts and stay out of it. So, DO IT without being told by admin. you'll get banned if you don't.
Thanks for the 'threat', Dave.
I'm not feeding anyone today.
PS Your quote of my post is a partial quote without indicating such & leaves out much even cutting off in mid sentence. I'd suggest that anyone interested read my post in full.
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