The pocket size on my new table is a little smaller than I wanted

This. As long as the table still accepts all shots (like down the rail) I say keep it.

.
Put 4 balls (touching) on a long rail. Hit the first ball, sending the end ball down to the pocket.
If the corner pocket accepts the end ball with speed, you can pocket any ball hit at any angle.

.
 
Well depends

Pardon the highjack, but,

you really don't understand that dropping your elbow not only is not
a "bad thing", but often preferred, or necessary, even?

Please, do a search and get back to us.

Dale

I have done the research and still occasionally do drop my elbow some on some shots but when you dont have those extra muscles involved its more likely you will stroke straighter. There isnt a good pool player on the planet who doesnt drop it once in awhile but if you drop it like I used to, every shot you might have a problem with consistency on long shots and I did..
 
In my opinion, play with the table until the cloth is worn out, then decide to open up the pockets (or not.)
 
I would rather run 75 on a 4" table then run 150 on Buckets
IMHO
I say keep the table as is
You will adjust I guarantee & remember the center of any pocket is 2&1/4"
 
I just picked up a very nice Gold Crown IV along with a proper rail extension with 4 3/8" pockets. I really wanted 4 1/2" pockets. The games I play are straight pool, 8 ball and rotation games. I know it's only an 1/8" but what would you do? Keep them as is or have them opened up to 4 1/2?

Edit: The table is not set up yet and will be used for practice to improve my game. I currently play in a straight pool league and a VNEA league.
The pocket size on my new table is a little smaller than I wanted -

I suggest shootin straighter!
 
Settled! 4 3/8" they stay. As stated in the original post, I wanted tight pockets all along. I just wanted
4 1/2" pockets. No reason to change over an 1/8 of an inch. My first 50 ball run will be that much sweeter and there is no doubt I'll have one.

Many thanks to Elroy for selling me a properly done Gold Crown that's never been in a commercial setting. It's really a nice table and I'm extremely fortunate to have gotten it.
 
I have done the research and still occasionally do drop my elbow some on some shots but when you dont have those extra muscles involved its more likely you will stroke straighter. There isnt a good pool player on the planet who doesnt drop it once in awhile but if you drop it like I used to, every shot you might have a problem with consistency on long shots and I did..

Ah yes, the old familiar 'minimum muscles' fallacy...

Watch Stephen Curry shoot a few Free Throws, he most certainly
does not use the fewest muscles possible.

The key point being 'that was you'

George Rood used to make a ball or two.

Dale
 
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Do you have a picture?
I am not sure where on the pocket to measure the distance.
Could you show me using a ruler?
You have me questioning my pocket size.



Settled! 4-3/8" they stay. As stated in the original post, I wanted tight pockets all along. I just wanted 4-1/2" pockets. No reason to change over an 1/8 of an inch. My first 50 ball run will be that much sweeter and there is no doubt I'll have one.

Many thanks to Elroy for selling me a properly done Gold Crown that's never been in a commercial setting. It's really a nice table and I'm extremely fortunate to have gotten it.
 
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Do you have a picture?
I am not sure where on the pocket to measure the distance.
Could you show me using a ruler?
You have me questioning my pocket size.




I do not have a picture as the table is still in pieces in my basement. I have other things to do at the new house first. It is super good incentive to get the other things done.
Typically a 4 1/2" pocket will allow 2 balls side by side to pass with no room to spare. A
4 3/8" pocket will not let 2 balls pass side by side. It's an 1/8" too small.
 

I practice on a table with 3.5 in pockets and it will straighten your stroke, make you stand right, stop dropping your elbow etc. All in all smaller can be a good thing but that small difference I wouldn't worry about it.
Would you mind posting a picture of the pocket with a ruler?
I've never seen a pocket that small before.
Thank You in Advance.
 
I do not have a picture as the table is still in pieces in my basement. I have other things to do at the new house first. It is super good incentive to get the other things done.
Typically a 4 1/2" pocket will allow 2 balls side by side to pass with no room to spare. A
4 3/8" pocket will not let 2 balls pass side by side. It's an 1/8" too small.
So the place to measure the pocket is under the tips not on the tips?

Does this guy know what he's doing when showing how to measure a pocket?
Seems flaky to me. Is he someone to be trusted?
;)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lG9CqK95U2E
 
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It works that way in 1P.
I regularly play on 4 1/8 pockets. When I travel and play on buckets I'm like a vampire at a blood bank:)

Or close up at a turkey shoot. I read somewhere the center of the pocket is not tight.
 
So the place to measure the pocket is under the tips not on the tips?

Does this guy know what he's doing when showing how to measure a pocket?
Seems flaky to me. Is he someone to be trusted?
;)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lG9CqK95U2E

That is Greg Sullivan - the owner of Diamond Billiard Tables. He designed the Diamond tables - yes, he knows what he is talking about. He is saying and showing that the correct place to measure a corner pocket is from point to point - the point being where the rail cushion first changes direction into the pocket. To measure any further into the pocket is not the standardized way to compare pocket widths. If measured further into the pocket, the measurement would obviously be quite a bit smaller. When someone says they have a table with 3.5" pockets, I always wonder where they are taking the measurement, because true 3.5" pockets would be very tough and would not play correctly IMO insofar as the ability to cheat the pocket and play a shot hit with spin and with some pace.
 
Thank you for your response.
BTW - I was being facetious when I said "could that guy in the video be trusted".
I have high respect for him, you and your company.

You are correct that the majority of people do not know how to correctly measure a pool pocket.



So the place to measure the pocket is under the tips not on the tips?

Does this guy know what he's doing when showing how to measure a pocket?
Seems flaky to me. Is he someone to be trusted?
;)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lG9CqK95U2E

That is Greg Sullivan - the owner of Diamond Billiard Tables. He designed the Diamond tables - yes, he knows what he is talking about. He is saying and showing that the correct place to measure a corner pocket is from point to point - the point being where the rail cushion first changes direction into the pocket. To measure any further into the pocket is not the standardized way to compare pocket widths. If measured further into the pocket, the measurement would obviously be quite a bit smaller. When someone says they have a table with 3.5" pockets, I always wonder where they are taking the measurement, because true 3.5" pockets would be very tough and would not play correctly IMO insofar as the ability to cheat the pocket and play a shot hit with spin and with some pace.
 
I would leave them as is and see how your game improves .... or doesn't.

I have 4 1/8" pockets on my GC1 and wish I had 3 7/8" or 4".
 
I didn't read the whole thread, but ...
If it were me, I'd set up the table to what I considered to be "standard" or "regulation" - and put the money into some pocket reducers to make my practice a bit more demanding.
And as someone mentioned early on .. get it the way you want it at the beginning, or you'll never be happy.
 
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