With a Predator radial butt, you definitely want the .843” version. Also true of most of the other current brands.
McDermott brand butts are usually a hair fatter at the joint. That’s what the .855” version is for.
The slickest/smoothest carbon fiber shaft?
- Thread starter newcuer
- Start date
McDermott brand butts are usually a hair fatter at the joint. That’s what the .855” version is for.
I know someone who sanded that gelcoat finish off his Defy and seemed to play just fine afterwards.
I play with Cynergy shafts and they are great unless it gets humid.
I was gambling last week and struggled mightily with the shaft sticking and not sliding through my bridge.
I played the last two hours with an open bridge for every shot just to grind out a small win.
What is the bad quality when a shaft is too smooth?
My custom Revo is the slickest one I have tried, compared to Cynergy, Ignite and a couple others I can't remember. Used nothing but a couple of sprays of distilled water on a microfiber cloth to clean it and it stayed as slick as day one.
As a side note, carbon shafts pick up dirt faster than wood ones and it's important to clean them at a minimum at the end of every session. My friend has an older Revo that is sticky, not sure what happened there.
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As a side note, carbon shafts pick up dirt faster than wood ones and it's important to clean them at a minimum at the end of every session. My friend has an older Revo that is sticky, not sure what happened there.
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WobblyStroke
Well-known member
Beats me. The lower you can get the friction, the less you have to add with the back arm to overcome it so smooth seems preferred to me. However, if one got used to a certain feel in the bridge hand and can gain some feedback from how the cue glides over their hand, it is conceivable that they'd want some texture to provide that feedback. But that's just a guess. To me, the less resistance, the better.
When did you purchase your Revo? Also, what do you mean by 'custom' Revo? Thanks.
I smile when I remember I'm not downtown in a ditch.
This is an old thread, but what grit sandpaper did you use?
Eddie
I played with many, unless they were worn, all felt about the same. I played around with waxing one, and it felt too slick, oddly so. Had to wipe it down to get the wax off.
If I recall correctly, 800 then 1500.
Thanks
I know CF shafts are a innovative change but I just never found one that felt right from the sound of the hit, the weight
of the shaft, resultant feel of your stroke or the smoothness. I have strictly played maple shafts for over 6 decades so
it’s a lot longer than most readers. I am very fussy about maple shafts, particularly the weight. Without a doubt, old
seasoned wood makes the best maple shafts, or at least I believed and endorsed that notion……up until 2 weeks ago.
Since that time, I’ve been playing with a Kielwood shaft. At first, I wasn’t impressed but after I changed the original tip
that the cue maker chose vs. what I normally play, it changed immediately. I always have played with 1” ivory ferrules
so I wasn’t sure I’d like the 1/2” Juma ferrule. I can live with it but I think a 1/2” ivory ferrule would make this shaft even
better. Anyway, that’s not in the cards but a Kielwood shaft that not too light plays better than old growth maple shafts.
In fact, I like the change so much I just ordered another Kielwood shaft with a 3/8x10 thread. I just need to get 1 more
shaft (3/8 x11) so that I’d have a Kielwood shaft for the cues in my case. I just prefer the feel of wood to CF cue shafts.
what i think you have discovered
you like what kielwood shaft can do
and since you already are used to a higher deflection shaft
the deflection qualities are not that important to you
i think for many the deflection properties play more importance and could influence their decisions some more
jmho
