The truth about Mezz shafts

Cezar Morales said:
The joint size needs to be .880 or bigger to drill & tap, mount rings & center properly. If it comes with a tip, it will have to be taken off.

*

When drilling & tapping into wood, there is always a chance something will go wrong.

*

As you can tell I don't like to mess with other manufactured products.


This is what Richard Harris replied me after i asked him

Can anyone interpret what he meant ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I assumed you only wanted to change the pin size in the shaft but if you are going to change ringwork
then I can see where he would like to have the shaft a little oversized so he can cut and sand the rings.

gr. Dave
 
Cezar Morales said:
Does that mean after fitting the mezz shaft on my bluegrass butt, it won't be flush as the butt will be bigger than the shaft ?
Click to expand...

Depends on how big the joint diameter of your bluegrass is ;-)

I don't know how open Richard is to working on other manufacturers stuff,
but in general it should be no problem to add a few layers of finish to the
shaft to go upto, say, .850 or .860 but the cuemaker in question does
have to actually want to do it.

gr. Dave
 
Double-Dave said:
I assumed you only wanted to change the pin size in the shaft but if you are going to change ringwork
then I can see where he would like to have the shaft a little oversized so he can cut and sand the rings.

gr. Dave
Click to expand...

Oh right i finally get it, that is why he mentioned that it must be .880 cuz he assume that i wanted ringwork done too

The ring work is not a priority for me, if he could do it i"l be even happier but mine main concern is fitting the shaft that's it.

Thanks Dave
 
Double-Dave said:
Depends on how big the joint diameter of your bluegrass is ;-)

I don't know how open Richard is to working on other manufacturers stuff,
but in general it should be no problem to add a few layers of finish to the
shaft to go upto, say, .850 or .860 but the cuemaker in question does
have to actually want to do it.


gr. Dave
Click to expand...


Right so adding a few layer does the trick.

But will adding a few layers compromise the ld charaacteristics, taper or hit of mezz shaft in anyway ?
 
Cezar Morales said:
Right so adding a few layer does the trick.

But will adding a few layers compromise the ld charaacteristics, taper or hit of mezz shaft in anyway ?
Click to expand...

In short no it will not change it at all.

But, I guess if you were able to get some incredibly accurate readings
on deflection you might find a difference in the 1% range or so, so instead
of deflecting the cueball 1.23" on a certain shot you'll now be deflecting it
1.22" or 1.24" instead. Not really something to worry about.

gr. Dave
 
Double-Dave said:
In short no it will not change it at all.



But, I guess if you were able to get some incredibly accurate readings

on deflection you might find a difference in the 1% range or so, so instead

of deflecting the cueball 1.23" on a certain shot you'll now be deflecting it

1.22" or 1.24" instead. Not really something to worry about.



gr. Dave
Click to expand...


Not to mention there's really no way to test a thousand of an inch properly, is there?
 
Double-Dave said:
In short no it will not change it at all.

But, I guess if you were able to get some incredibly accurate readings
on deflection you might find a difference in the 1% range or so, so instead
of deflecting the cueball 1.23" on a certain shot you'll now be deflecting it
1.22" or 1.24" instead. Not really something to worry about.

gr. Dave
Click to expand...


Oh okay. What about the taper ?

Will adding more finish changes the taper as it will make the shaft feel thicker ?
 
Hi,

No you're not changing the taper. Making the finish a little thicker will not change the shaft
in any significant way. The biggest change of all (and it will still be minute) would probably be
the weight that obviously will go up ever so slightly.

gr. Dave
 
Double-Dave said:
Hi,

No you're not changing the taper. Making the finish a little thicker will not change the shaft
in any significant way. The biggest change of all (and it will still be minute) would probably be
the weight that obviously will go up ever so slightly.

gr. Dave
Click to expand...

Will it hit better if he copies the Blue Grass's parabolic taper?
 
Isn't the low mass behind the tip the only thing that matters in a LD shaft? Stiffness has been discounted as a factor by a few experts posters.

Thanks
Be well
 
JoeyInCali said:
Will it hit better if he copies the Blue Grass's parabolic taper?
Click to expand...


Maybe not everyone here is a cuemaker and lacks certain knowledge starting off and maybe some ppl just want to be sure that they know what they are doing before making a decision.

Thank you Dave for your valuable imsights n advice :)
 
LAMas said:
Isn't the low mass behind the tip the only thing that matters in a LD shaft? Stiffness has been discounted as a factor by a few experts posters.

Thanks
Be well
Click to expand...

Correcto. Hence why lamination and don't taper seem to matter. The fact that I think some miss is that its not lower mass relative to the rest of the shaft that matters. Its relative to the cue ball. 11.75 mm shafts will have less deflection (more by proper definition) than a 13mm shaft with the same length of ferrule and material. The 13mm shaft will probably be stiffer than the 11.75 shaft. What we all forget about low/high deflection is that the base line is "standard maple shafts" which is for all intents and purposes works but grossly subjective.
 
Some here have posted the the Mezz shaft is or feels rigid and not flexible and thus doesn't bend away from the CB at impact as much as a more flexible shaft. Does/will that alter the path of the CB after impact - away from the center line of the shaft - or "squirt"?
 
So my WX900 finally arrived today. I had a long lunch with my mom (yep still do!), so I didn't get much of a chance to play with it until this evening. It's definitely an adjustment from the WD700. It does feel less "stiff" to me than the WD700. I thought the conical taper might bother me since I've been so used to the pro taper...but that didn't seem to cause any "discomfort" in the stroke. I thought I would also have issue with the 12mm tip on the WX900 since the WD700 is 12.5mm...and most of my standard shafts for my customs are at 13mm. However, the smaller diameter didn't bother me at all. Perhaps that's because I'm an "ok" shooter and not a "great" shooter. :embarrassed2: But in the words of Monty Python, "I'm getting better!" (https://youtube.com/watch?v=grbSQ6O6kbs) :)
 
JAMSGOLF said:
So my WX900 finally arrived today. I had a long lunch with my mom (yep still do!), so I didn't get much of a chance to play with it until this evening. It's definitely an adjustment from the WD700. It does feel less "stiff" to me than the WD700. I thought the conical taper might bother me since I've been so used to the pro taper...but that didn't seem to cause any "discomfort" in the stroke. I thought I would also have issue with the 12mm tip on the WX900 since the WD700 is 12.5mm...and most of my standard shafts for my customs are at 13mm. However, the smaller diameter didn't bother me at all. Perhaps that's because I'm an "ok" shooter and not a "great" shooter. :embarrassed2: But in the words of Monty Python, "I'm getting better!" (https://youtube.com/watch?v=grbSQ6O6kbs) :)
Click to expand...

Is there any difference in squirt or deflection angle in the path of the CB with the same amount of english?

Be well
 
LAMas said:
Is there any difference in squirt or deflection angle in the path of the CB with the same amount of english?

Be well
Click to expand...

Not that I noticed with any real margin of significance...

I also forgot to say I have two different types of tips on the two shafts...I know that won't effect deflection, but it will spin (at least for me it does).

I'll mess around with both of them again tomorrow and see if I can see any difference (that I can notice) with regards to the deflection. :)
 
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