Nuked.
Too bad for those who will never read all the free tips.
Quite a shame. There was a
lot of good information and I was only able to grab a few snippets before the thread was pulled.
Originally Posted by cueman
The whole reason I started using a saw instead of parting tool was not for thin rings, but is was because when doing rings with silver in the slots. The chatter caused by the silver then softer material hitting the parting tool was causing some rings to shatter. Those silver slot rings are expensive and it eliminated me shattering them. The extra benefit was I could use a .032" blade and gain several extra 1/8" long rings out of each billet.
Originally Posted by qbilder
Now that is a sensible reason. Thank you
I should clarify that only the ring in the pic took several minutes to cut. A .015" ring, the size I generally use, takes a couple seconds. I can cut those things as fast as my hands can operate the hand wheels, and eyes can read the indicator. The finished ring requires no extra work. They are too thin to do anything else to. Any attempt to do anything more than carefully slide them onto an arbor will destroy them, so they have to be correct right off the lathe. This is what I was speaking of in my earlier posts, having the ability to create rings that are true, uniform, burr free, and infinitely repeatable.
Originally Posted by Travis Niklich
The critical temp of carbide is almost twice that of HSS (1300-1400 for carbide versus 600-800 degrees F for HSS). But when HSS reaches that temp it just starts to break down slowly the cutting edges but it's much more forgiving when that happens. But when carbide reaches its upper limit of temp it starts to crack or can shatter. A Carbide cutter will also fail during the loading or unloading cycle too this happens most often when the tool first enters the cut or when it exits the cut that's why certain carbide lathe tools aren't good for interrupted cuts. I was taught the "old rule" that your chips should never be darker that a light tan. But when I actually went to machinist classes and learned the proper speeds and feeds I learned I was babying the cutter's and material to much especially with carbide. With newer carbide we use the "new rule" is the chip should be light blue when it comes of the part then turn dark blue to black in the chip pan. This takes the heat off with the chip instead of putting it into the part. You also have to take deeper cuts than you would think at school our SOP was to take off about .100 per pass to rough out the part. Then leave .050 minimum for the last past any less and the tool rides along the work and rubs more than cutting leaving a bad finish and heats up the part.
For this reason a large HSS end mill lets say one inch in diameter in a cnc mill can do much more damage than a carbide end mill. The reason is if you hit the vise for instance the carbide will shatter like a glass rod before it does much damage but the HSS mill will bend and push and even break the vise in extreme cases. You will also never see a solid carbide tool with a bent shank like you will with a HSS tool.
If I was looking to part rings with a "saw" blade I would look for one that has concave sides or that has the teeth hanging over the edge of the plate like a carbide table saw blade. When the blade is the same thickness, its not the teeth but the plate of the blade that creates the heat. This is why clearance angles are so important on cutting tools. Not enough clearance leads to rubbing the material versus cutting it.
You have to read all the comments to find where he says he is using Kennametal carbide inserts at 4000 SFM. He is cutting Inconel which is one of the hardest metals to cut know to man. It is used inside jet turbines because it can handle unbelievably high heat. Most mold shops no longer hand grind and polish die's any more now they machine then about 20-30 thousandths over size get them heat treated to a Rockwell 62-65 then put them back in a cnc mill and do whats called high speed machining with a high RPM and feed rate taking light cuts to get a mirror finish (RMS)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgsAyIVA75s&spfreload=10
Heat can kill carbide or it can be used to make it work better in this video they use the heat and the proper coatings on the cutter to do whats called "plastic deformation" it actually anneals the chip in the cut and pulls it off cherry red hot but the part stays relatively cool probably under 200 degrees F. They don't use coolant because it would kill the process and will thermally shock the carbide and fracture it.
Most of the development in cutting tool have been in the last 5-10 years and have more to do with the coating applied to the carbide substructure and the fact that the carbide can be ground to a finer texture (sub-micron carbide). The coating is what is actually in contact with the material being cut. Most people think carbide is always better because it stays sharper longer but it will dull fast if its run to slow of RPM and feed rate which is the mistake most people make with carbide. Lets look at a 1/2 inch end mill in both HSS and carbide cutting aluminum on a manual "Bridgeport mill"
So a standard HSS end mill should run around 200-300 SFM
so take 3.82 x 300 / .500 = 2,292 RPM
Then look at a high end carbide end mill like a Destiny Viper that recomends 1800-2000 SFM
so take 3.82 x 1800 / .500 = 13,752 RPM
Now I don't know of any "Bridgeport" that can run 13,000 RPM so most would be wasting money on a carbide end mill because they can't run it at a high enough RPM or feed it fast enough to take advantage of it. In this case you would get a better finish with the HSS and it would cost a lot less for the tooling. I have however run a Destiny Viper in the HAAS super speed mill where I work at 12,000 RPM and a feed rate of 300 IPM after about 4 hours of use it still looked brand new. It sounded like a buzz saw going through aluminum but left a mirror like finish.
The carbide inserts we use for the cnc turning class I'm teaching now have a recommended SFM of 1200 in steel with a .040-.140 depth of cut and a feed rate of .007-.012 IPR. You can use the following formula to calculate the RPM for a lathe or end mill and see how fast it needs to spin for that cutter to work properly.
3.82 x SFM / diameter of work for a lathe or diameter of end mill.
http://www.asminternational.org/documents/10192/22533690/06022G_Sample_BuyNow.pdf/b8f2e317-5089-44bc-a14d-af31f80e33a5
http://www.kennametal.com/content/dam/kennametal/kennametal/common/Resources/Catalogs-Literature/Industry%20Solutions/SuperAlloys_material_machining_guide_Aerospace.pdf