Things to consider for those forum members buying their first pool cue

[Biloxi Boy]

Buying a first cue is a big step. For some of us, it is one of our first significant financial expenditures. For most of us, it will not be our last cue purchase . . .

Remember, the old adage "try before you buy" is important in first cue purchases.*

Also, when making your first cue purchase you should stretch and find the best (most expensive) cue within your grasp, and then get on your tip toes, reach higher, and buy a better one. This should give you a cue you will be happy with longer -- maybe forever. If you later have to sell, more expensive cues hold their value better than, well, cheap ones. Where do you think the term "tomato stake" comes from? Check out the prices, every $200 will demonstrate an appreciable step up.

But don't go overboard. You are buying a tool and not a museum artifact. Even with the best care, cues eventually collect a few nicks and show wear. Don't sweat it. Remember, a cue is a tool. Care for it as you would any other one.

*Edit: For those without physical access to a "cue store", this can be difficult, except that most owners are proud of their cues and will readily respond positively to a request something like "I am getting ready to buy a cue, I like the way yours looks, would you mind if hit a couple of balls with it." Even some old curmudgeons find such difficult to turn down.

 

[manwon]

Ditto on good to see you back posting!!

Thanks a lot man. It’s certainly good to be here.

 

[manwon]

Buying a first cue is a big step. For some of us, it is one of our first significant financial expenditures. For most of us, it will not be our last cue purchase . . .

Remember, the old adage "try before you buy" is important in first cue purchases.

Also, when making your first cue purchase you should stretch and find the best (most expensive) cue within your grasp, and then get on your tip toes, reach higher, and buy a better one. This should give you a cue you will be happy with longer -- maybe forever. If you later have to sell, more expensive cues hold their value better than, well, cheap ones. Where do you think the term "tomato stake" comes from? Check out the prices, every $200 will demonstrate an appreciable step up.

But don't go overboard. You are buying a tool and not a museum artifact. Even with the best care, cues eventually collect a few nicks and show wear. Don't sweat it. Remember, a cue is a tool. Care for it as you would any other one.

Great post my friend. I think you really hit the nail in the head. I think the information you are sharing will be helpful to any new player that reads this thread. I love your comment about tomato stakes, that is the nickname that Billy Webb a.k.a. spiderweb used to call his cues. Billy is no longer with us, but his cute will last forever may he rest in peace.

 

[skor]

Hello everyone, I have seen many new players asking for help buying their first pool cue. The following information will hopefully be helpful when deciding which pool cue to purchase

1. Production pool cues are approximately 58 inches long and they come in a variety of weights from 17 to 21 ounces. In most cases when buying a pool cue you are able to choose the weight. Most players use a pool cue that weighs between 18 and 19 ounces however this is not set in stone. I would recommend the best of two world which in my opinion as far as weight is concerned is approximately 18 1/2 ounces. However, It can be changed very easily by removing the cues bumper to get too the weight bolt underneath. These white bolts can be purchased online for a very small investment.

Installation is as simple as using a screwdriver to remove weight bolt and screwing the new one in. Before ordering a new weight bolt remove the existing weight bolt and weigh it. This way if you want to increase the weight you can order the right weight bolt for your needs. Production pool cues have two types of standard grips, wrapped with Irish linen or unwrapped with no Irish. Whether you purchase a a pool cue with or without a wrap is nothing more than personal preference. The shaft on most production pool cues is 13 mm at the tip, however, this can vary depending upon the manufacturer.

2. Today most production pool cues are made in China or the United States. The price of pool cues can range from $50 dollars too many thousands of dollars. The prices of pool cues are based upon the manufacturer, the quality of materials and the quality of construction. Like everything else in life when buying a pool cue you get what you pay for nothing more and nothing less. When you get your pool cue in your hands check it out based upon the following information.

a. Check the pool cue to make certain that it is straight together and apart. You can do this by sighting down the length of the pool cue then turn it slowly. Next check the fit and finish of the pool cue. You can do this by running your hand over the surface of the pool cue. Pay particular attention to parts of the cue that has inlaid rings, points, along with the cues joint. If, you can feel the inlays or other materials through cues finish i would not recommend buying that pool cue. Because overtime those problems will become worse and they will crack cues finish.

I sincerely hope this is helpful. If you have any additional questions, please ask.

This post feels like a 20 years old post.
Production cues offer so many more options.
You have linen, leather, fake leather, rubber or other grips.
A lot of production cues comes with a smaller diameter than 13mm at the tip.

Here is my guide to buying a new cue:

1. If it’s too cheap, then it’s too cheap and not worth buying.

2. Buy a cue from a known manufacturer, that have reputation and you can get feedback on it in forums or groups dedicated to pool.

3. First cue, go with 19oz and make sure that you can adjust it. With experience, you’ll learn that balance point is more important than weight and you will know what weight and balance point is good for you. A balance point of 18.5-19 inch from the bumper is a good start.

4. Only buy a cue that can have an extension added.

5. Buy a cue with a real low deflection shaft (you will in the future so might as just get from the get go, might as well go with carbon)

6. Get a good medium hardness leather layered tip and experiment with different hardness when it’s time to replace it.

7. Get a good case for it.

 

[garczar]

Just curious how many AZ forum members would be buying their first cue? If they're on AZ they have at least one if not a whole closet full.

 

[Biloxi Boy]

C'mon man, don't harsh my buzz. A lot of pretending goes on here.

 

[manwon]

This post feels like a 20 years old post.
Production cues offer so many more options.
You have linen, leather, fake leather, rubber or other grips.
A lot of production cues comes with a smaller diameter than 13mm at the tip.

SKOR, you have officially made me feel like an old man. I used to own a pool room and a retail billiards store all in one. I sold it 2014 beginning of and moved to South Korea. It appears that many things have changed and I am way behind the times. Thank you very much for your candor. I really appreciate it.

Here is my guide to buying a new cue:

1. If it’s too cheap, then it’s too cheap and not worth buying.

2. Buy a cue from a known manufacturer, that have reputation and you can get feedback on it in forums or groups dedicated to pool.

3. First cue, go with 19oz and make sure that you can adjust it. With experience, you’ll learn that balance point is more important than weight and you will know what weight and balance point is good for you. A balance point of 18.5-19 inch from the bumper is a good start.

4. Only buy a cue that can have an extension added.

5. Buy a cue with a real low deflection shaft (you will in the future so might as just get from the get go, might as well go with carbon)

6. Get a good medium hardness leather layered tip and experiment with different hardness when it’s time to replace it.

7. Get a good case for it.

I like what you’ve written here it’s clean cut and to the point. Hopefully someone looking for a cue will see this and follow your instructions. I appreciate you taking the time to write this.

 

[manwon]

Just curious how many AZ forum members would be buying their first cue? If they're on AZ they have at least one if not a whole closet full.

Obviously, you think this thread is a waste of time and you could be right. But frankly, it doesn’t really matter because this thread has already started. If you choose not support it that’s fine however, I wish you would reconsider and add some useful content.

Respectfully Manwon

 

[Chopdoc]

Just curious how many AZ forum members would be buying their first cue? If they're on AZ they have at least one if not a whole closet full.

Although the title addresses members, I think the point is really more for the masses than members. AZB forums are indexed by Google.

It's always an interesting discussion, and I think has changed a lot in the last few years because I think many will start out with a CF cue now.

I was at the pool hall a few days ago. A dude and his lady were at the next table playing/practicing. It seemed they were in some local league. They both seemed pretty new to the game judging from their skill level, but both had CF cues, gloves, etc. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised.

On the table to the other side of mine were two very experience players. Once had a full CF cue, the other a CF shaft on an old school cue. Both had gloves.

And there I was playing with my Joss.

I know some of the names of entry level brands. Crical. Rhino. But I honestly know nothing about them.

 

[Jimmy_Betmore]

One other thing to consider:
If you like a rear weighted or forward balanced, not something you will be able to know, until you try some out.

Picking up a cue with a forward or extremely neutral balance after only ever having felt cues with the weight added in the butt is one of those magical moments in our pool lives. It simply did not compute in my little monkey brain that a cue could weigh an ounce or two more but feel the same or even lighter. It made sense after I thought about it for a little bit. But, man... I'd been playing with an older 19 oz Schon with a weight bolt and a dude at the pool room let me play around with his Cog for a bit. I told him it felt way too light for me. Then he told me that because of its balance it felt lighter but it actually weighed 19.25 oz. I flat out didn't believe him. We managed to find a scale and, sure as shit, it weighed 1/4 oz more than my Schon. I'll never forget that because I learned something that went entirely against my intuition.

 

[wacokid9ball]

Snoring my ass off!

 

[manwon]

Although the title addresses members, I think the point is really more for the masses than members. AZB forums are indexed by Google.

It's always an interesting discussion, and I think has changed a lot in the last few years because I think many will start out with a CF cue now.

I was at the pool hall a few days ago. A dude and his lady were at the next table playing/practicing. It seemed they were in some local league. They both seemed pretty new to the game judging from their skill level, but both had CF cues, gloves, etc. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised.

On the table to the other side of mine were two very experience players. Once had a full CF cue, the other a CF shaft on an old school cue. Both had gloves.

And there I was playing with my Joss.

I know some of the names of entry level brands. Crical. Rhino. But I honestly know nothing about them.

Great post Doc, thank you for supporting this thread. I am certainly behind times doc, the carbon fiber phenomenon has caught me by surprise. 12 years ago if someone told me this would happen I would’ve said they were full of shit today it has come to fruition. But I suppose that it must be expected since so many pros on tour are also using carbon fiber cues and shafts.

Thanks again I appreciate your input and your knowledge on the subject.

 

[manwon]

Snoring my ass off!

We certainly aim, please!!!

 

[Bavafongoul]

Frosty and many other pool players endorse using a hard tip for your first pool cue. After you learn how to stroke the cue ball properly, which takes constant practice or else you’ll lose what you trying to perfect, you can better decide what tip hardness and brand suits you the best. Unlike Frosty, I recommend not going above a medium hardness rating instead of a hard tip at the outset. In fact, I’m further suggesting that a soft tip would help you develop your stroke and how it feels after you actually stroke through the cue ball. It imparts a much more subtle feeling about your stroke speed and mastering cue ball position.

 

[MitchAlsup]

When buying your first pool cue there are 2 important rules::
a) your eye must like the look of the cue
b) your hand must like the feel of the cue
Everything else is superfluous::
1) you can change the dynamic of the hit with by changing the tip
2) you can change the weight by removing the weight bolt and/or adding a heavier weight bolt
3) you can get used to any amount of deflection (this is your first cue!)
4) Your first cue will teach you have not to put the cue in danger of dings, bruises, and scrapes--no amount
.....of reading or teaching can teach you how to hold a cue so that it never gets dinged--only actual use.
5) because of 4--consider your first cue a write-off
6) and because of 5--you will not need our advice when it comes to your second cue.

 

[The Old Jaybird]

consider a standard joint, for buying additional shafts and not in some oddball size/specs. Many first cues, graduate to becoming break cues, so buy a solid strong stick, chances are it will have a bunch of banging in its future. Stick with well known brands, its a lot easier to sell a McDermott or a Joss, than a Fubar from Egypt.

 

[Bavafongoul]

Just remember that weight bolts are a crutch. IMO, the cue maker missed the desired weight and compensates by
using a metal bolt of varying weight to fulfill the customer’s order. I’ve seem varying lengths, material and weight,
sometimes more than an ounce. Sticking a chunk of metal in the ass of a cue does not help nor improve its balance.

The best weight bolts are headless and approx weigh 1/4 oz (7 grams) that allow you to position the headless bolts
In different positions within a cored cue butt. Want to add 1/2 oz, just position two (2) headless bolts within the cue butt
where the balance feels the best or even three bolts if needed but that just means the cue maker really missed the target.

Positioning the weights within the cue butt preserves the cue’s balance whilst still increasing the weight proportionately.
However, shoving a 1 once, or even 1/2 oz aluminum bolt under the bumper doesn’t achieve the same effect. It is just a dead weight like a lead sinker on a fishing line. When considering a production (catalog) cue, just confirm if it uses any weight bolt to produce the listed cue weight. Try to avoid heavy weight bolts because it screws up the cue’s balance, IMO.

 

[manwon]

Just remember that weight bolts are a crutch. IMO, the cue maker missed the desired weight and compensates by
using a metal bolt of varying weight to fulfill the customer’s order. I’ve seem varying lengths, material and weight,
sometimes more than an ounce. Sticking a chunk of metal in the ass of a cue does not help nor improve its balance.

That's not an accurate statement obviously there's a lot you don't understand about cue building. In many cases, weight bolts must be used due to the choice of wood. There's much more to it than just sticking a piece of metal in the ass and moving on balance must be maintained and this is all part of the planning process that goes into building a cue. For instance, in many cases, the weight bolt is designed to offset the weight of the pin for the joint and the screw at the A-joint. This will also throw off the balance of the cue if left unattended.

The best weight bolts are headless and approx weigh 1/4 oz (7 grams) that allow you to position the headless bolts
In different positions within a cored cue butt. Want to add 1/2 oz, just position two (2) headless bolts within the cue butt
where the balance feels the best or even three bolts if needed but that just means the cue maker really missed the target.

Not all butts are cored, so bolts in the manner you're speaking of are not always possible to use. However, when they are, I agree with you they are the right choice.

Positioning the weights within the cue butt preserves the cue’s balance whilst still increasing the weight proportionately.
However, shoving a 1 once, or even 1/2 oz aluminum bolt under the bumper doesn’t achieve the same effect. It is just a dead weight like a lead sinker on a fishing line. When considering a production (catalog) cue, just confirm if it uses any weight bolt to produce the listed cue weight. Try to avoid heavy weight bolts because it screws up the cue’s balance, IMO.

You're very opinionated however your knowledge is limited obviously you've built no cues.

JIMHO

 

[Bob Jewett]

I think the main problem with buying a first cue -- assuming you are serious about the game -- is that there are a lot of cues that may feel good to a novice player but are lousy choices for one reason or another. A beginner has no idea what to look for.

I've seen beginning league players who were around five feet tall fitted out by their friends with 60-inch cues so they could reach more shots. It doesn't work that way.

About the "no idea what to look for": At several expos, I liked to hang around a booth that sold expensive low-deflection shafts. They had shafts to fit various joints, so the customer could walk away with a ready-to-use setup. There was also a table where the customer could try out the shaft before buying. In the time I was there, maybe six customers tried out shafts and bought them. Not one customer tried shots with side spin.

If a beginner just wants a cue that is better than the house cues at the bar where they play once every few Fridays, get a low-end ($150) production cue. If a player is serious, I think they need to worry about:

1. Amount of cue ball deflection or squirt -- beginners have no clue about this
2. Length -- 58 is not right for most, one way or another
3. Balance -- bad balance can make some shots much harder
4. Wrap -- there are many bad wraps that require a tight grip to avoid slipping
5. Well built -- this is hard to figure out before you buy

If the cue is for playing, appearance is irrelevant.

My first cue was probably not best for my game, other than being a constant. Ivory joint and butt plate, solid bird's-eye maple butt, brown leather wrap, antler ferrules on the two shafts, 57 inches, maybe 20 ounces, custom made, $65.

 

[manwon]

I think the main problem with buying a first cue -- assuming you are serious about the game -- is that there are a lot of cues that may feel good to a novice player but are lousy choices for one reason or another. A beginner has no idea what to look for.

I've seen beginning league players who were around five feet tall fitted out by their friends with 60-inch cues so they could reach more shots. It doesn't work that way.

About the "no idea what to look for": At several expos, I liked to hang around a booth that sold expensive low-deflection shafts. They had shafts to fit various joints, so the customer could walk away with a ready-to-use setup. There was also a table where the customer could try out the shaft before buying. In the time I was there, maybe six customers tried out shafts and bought them. Not one customer tried shots with side spin.

If a beginner just wants a cue that is better than the house cues at the bar where they play once every few Fridays, get a low-end ($150) production cue. If a player is serious, I think they need to worry about:

1. Amount of cue ball deflection or squirt -- beginners have no clue about this
2. Length -- 58 is not right for most, one way or another
3. Balance -- bad balance can make some shots much harder
4. Wrap -- there are many bad wraps that require a tight grip to avoid slipping
5. Well built -- this is hard to figure out before you buy

If the cue is for playing, appearance is irrelevant.

My first cue was probably not best for my game, other than being a constant. Ivory joint and butt plate, solid bird's-eye maple butt, brown leather wrap, antler ferrules on the two shafts, 57 inches, maybe 20 ounces, custom made, $65.

Well, thank you very much for your reply and your supported this thread.