Thoughts on cue ball weight and density

digitalcrack

digitalcrack

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've played with the measles ball, Aramith pro ball (red logo), red dot, and triangle logo at the local pool hall. I feel the measles ball play the heaviest of all the balls. Given the Aramith pro ball and measles ball at equal weight, I feel like the measles plow through the object balls more than the Aramith pro ball. I feel it has something to do with density and composite material in the different balls. Because of this, I personally feel the measles ball makes follow easier and draw harder. Basically, I imagine the effect of a large rock hitting a smaller rock. With that said, many of the balls are worn down over the years and often become undersized through years of usage. Even many of the cue balls weigh significantly less and I feel that makes it easier to strike through the ball making draw to be much easier. How do these variables change the way we play the game(ie: choice of shot, deflection, stroke speed...)? Or do we automatically adjust after a while? Do we have to increase or decrease the mph's on our break based on the cue ball we use?

I feel like I can cut balls thinner with a "heavier" ball. I can control the cue ball easier when it feels like the cueball is the same weight as the object balls. I feel I can throw the balls better when the cueball is of similar weight as the object balls. I have never tried the measles with a brand new set of balls. Any thoughts?
 
I personally feel the the Super Aramith balls with the Measel Cue is the best set out there. I had a Brand New set of Brusnswick Centennials prior to getting a Brand New set of Supers. I don't use the Centennials anymore. The Aramiths seem to be more consistent and more lively. They rack tighter more consistently and spread better on the break. As for action on the Measel Cue I have not ever really experienced any difficulty in getting it to draw. It does seem to carry or roll out a little further. When I go to the pool and use a regular red dot I don't seem to feel like I have an adjustment. Although I have played with the red dots for years.
 
Here is an excellent article about pool balls, cue balls and weight.

http://www.poolchat.net/modules/sections/index.php?op=viewarticle&artid=65

I believe if the cue ball is lighter than the object balls, it deflects at a much wider angle and is very easy to draw. With a slight angle and inside draw, the cueball can be made to take a very unusual angle. It just isn't pool when everything becomes a guessing game, mainly due to worn out equipment. Balls that are very worn down, rebound differently when banked, will sometimes jump into the air off a rail and go wide when they usually bank short. I carry in my case, a red circle cue ball that is worn, but it makes the game predictable in both shotmaking and position.
Pat yourself on the back, because you're one of the few players that can spot a serious problem with equipment. The room owners I have spoken to about this, could care less.
 
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Assuming that the substance the cue ball is made of is a consistant density throughout, if each cue ball is the same diameter and the same weight, they will be the same density unless they are made in layers like many golf balls.
The outer substance/material might transmit a different feel through your cue.
 
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Try playing with one of those bar box tables that uses a larger cue ball so that it will return instead of staying down. Those are the worst cue balls ever, almost impossible to control. I never noticed a difference when I first started playing, but now it is very noticeable.
 
Buckzapper said:
Here is an excellent article about pool balls, cue balls and weight.

http://www.poolchat.net/modules/sections/index.php?op=viewarticle&artid=65

I believe if the cue ball is lighter than the object balls, it deflects at a much wider angle and is very easy to draw. With a slight angle and inside draw, the cueball can be made to take a very unusual angle. It just isn't pool when everything becomes a guessing game, mainly due to worn out equipment. Balls that are very worn down, rebound differently when banked, will sometimes jump into the air off a rail and go wide when they usually bank short. I carry in my case, a red circle cue ball that is worn, but it makes the game predictable in both shotmaking and position.
Pat yourself on the back, because you're one of the few players that can spot a serious problem with equipment. The room owners I have spoken to about this, could care less.
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Interesting article. I like to use the red Aramath logo ball if I can. I feel it draws and follows pretty consistently. This is the ball that seems to have a finish or resin that yellows over time. There is no use buying a double circle ball from the guy in the article if all the rest of the balls weigh less. I also think the triangle ball plays well but it makes a really loud smacking sound every time I hit the ball. It makes me feel like I hit it bad. You are right about the room owners not caring. Two weeks ago, I was using the magic rack on a "regular" table and the one was significantly smaller that there was a quarter inch gap between the next two balls. How ridiculous is that?

Bill Yerd said:
Assuming that the substance the cue ball is made of is a consistant density throughout, if each cue ball is the same diameter and the same weight, they will be the same density unless they are made in layers like many golf balls.
The outer substance/material might transmit a different feel through your cue.
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I wonder if the cue ball is made in layers or a single layer. You might be right about the outer substance. Because like I mentioned above, the red triangle ball sounds awful when I strike balls. I sometimes use sound as feedback in regards to speed control. It is very difficult with that ball.
 
I picked up a set of super pros which was old stock and had the red logo instead of the measles cue ball. the red logo ball was noticeably heavier than my new measles ball.

As ever, my own personal experience is diametrically opposed to just about everyone else's on this site.

Sent from my LG-P500 using Tapatalk
 
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personally feel the the Super Aramith balls with the Measel Cue is the best set out there. I had a Brand New set of Brusnswick Centennials prior to getting a Brand New set of Supers. I don't use the Centennials anymore. The Aramiths seem to be more consistent and more lively. They rack tighter more consistently and spread better on the break. As for action on the Measel Cue I have not ever really experienced any difficulty in getting it to draw. It does seem to carry or roll out a little further. When I go to the pool and use a regular red dot I don't seem to feel like I have an adjustment. Although I have played with the red dots for years.

i think that the centennials and the aramiths are made by the same company, and are the same ball just different brand names?
 
i think that the centennials and the aramiths are made by the same company, and are the same ball just different brand names?[/QUOTE]


Yes, I believe they are too. But, Just like many companies, they produce different Quality and Levels of the same product. There is at least 3 different grades or levels of Aramith's alone. Titleist also produces many different qualities of golf balls. ProV1 being the best. IMHO the Aramith Super Pro is a better set of Balls then Brunswick Centennials. I began shooting with Centennials and have preferred them for years. I got the Super's for a good price at the US Open. They have won me over. The main pool hall in Tallahassee, Zingale's is in the process of switching over to them too. Maybe not for all 22 tables. I know they have at least 4 sets available now. Zingale's, formerly Snooker's, under new ownership, has made many great changes to cater and become a pool players room.
 
Raider510 said:
Try playing with one of those bar box tables that uses a larger cue ball so that it will return instead of staying down. Those are the worst cue balls ever, almost impossible to control. I never noticed a difference when I first started playing, but now it is very noticeable.
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We use to call those slug balls.
 
There is a difference in a measle ball and a red circle. They are also different weights. A friend of mine has 10 different red circle cueballs and most weigh different. There is also alot of bootlegged red circles out there.
 
I just bought a red circle, mine weighs 3 hundredths of an ounce less than my squiggly s cue ball.

Looks like I'm not gonna get a house advantage by changing cue balls:D
 
MSandru23 said:
i think that the centennials and the aramiths are made by the same company, and are the same ball just different brand names?
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Yes, I believe they are too. But, Just like many companies, they produce different Quality and Levels of the same product. There is at least 3 different grades or levels of Aramith's alone. Titleist also produces many different qualities of golf balls. ProV1 being the best. IMHO the Aramith Super Pro is a better set of Balls then Brunswick Centennials. I began shooting with Centennials and have preferred them for years. I got the Super's for a good price at the US Open. They have won me over. The main pool hall in Tallahassee, Zingale's is in the process of switching over to them too. Maybe not for all 22 tables. I know they have at least 4 sets available now. Zingale's, formerly Snooker's, under new ownership, has made many great changes to cater and become a pool players room.[/QUOTE]

The Blue circle that's standard with a set of Brunswick Centennials is the same weight as the obj. balls and therefore a much better cue ball for 14.1 and powering thru the stack. The red circle is a ball that being lighter allows a good player allot of leway when coming up short on the correct side of the ball, but if you need to force follow the red circle its shortcomings in that area surface. I've always heard the tolerances with the top quality balls are much tighter than the cheaper sets. Most knowlegable purcharsers of high end billiard ball sets will mic em to make sure, and send em back if out of specs. There are also balls called seconds that can be purchased, but only for the cheaper sets. I don't think you can purchase a single centennial, 12 ball for example, tho I could be wrong as times do change.
 
MSandru23 said:
i think that the centennials and the aramiths are made by the same company, and are the same ball just different brand names?
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Island Drive said:
Yes, I believe they are too. But, Just like many companies, they produce different Quality and Levels of the same product. There is at least 3 different grades or levels of Aramith's alone. Titleist also produces many different qualities of golf balls. ProV1 being the best. IMHO the Aramith Super Pro is a better set of Balls then Brunswick Centennials. I began shooting with Centennials and have preferred them for years. I got the Super's for a good price at the US Open. They have won me over. The main pool hall in Tallahassee, Zingale's is in the process of switching over to them too. Maybe not for all 22 tables. I know they have at least 4 sets available now. Zingale's, formerly Snooker's, under new ownership, has made many great changes to cater and become a pool players room.
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The Brunswick Centennials and the Super Aramith Pro are the same ball, the only difference being the graphics. Don't know what to tell you about any differences some of you perceive in how they play, but they are the same ball. This is directly off the Saluc website:

As the top of the line, the Super Aramith PRO set distinguishes itself by its beautiful design and numbers and the maximized in-depth vitrification of its More importantly, it is a fully matched professional set, where precise calibration of each ball guarantees maximum consistency within the set. The Super Aramith PRO also exists in the Centennial design produced for Brunswick.
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Just weighed 7 balls
super pros
10 thru 15 and red circle cue
number balls all, 5.96-5.98 oz.
red circle 5.93 oz

does .03-.06 oz. really make a difference??
 
thommy said:
Just weighed 7 balls
super pros
10 thru 15 and red circle cue
number balls all, 5.96-5.98 oz.
red circle 5.93 oz

does .03-.06 oz. really make a difference??
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The weights are very close throughout the set and shouldn't be a problem. This is to be expected since Super Pros are matched sets. But as to the red circle, you are lucky it is close in weight because it isn't matched to the set and in fact is made from a different resin as the rest of the balls. In the long term the red circle isn't inclined to be as kind to your bed cloth. The Aramith red logo or measles balls are the cue balls that go with the Super Pros (the measles ball with the TV set, the red logo with the traditional set). But of course, if you buy these separately you can't be guaranteed what weight you'll get (5.5 oz to 6.0 oz is within spec).
 
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DogsPlayingPool said:
The weights are very close throughout the set and shouldn't be a problem. This is to be expected since Super Pros are matched sets. But as to the red circle, you are lucky it is close in weight because it isn't matched to the set and in fact is made from a different resin as the rest of the balls. In the long term the red circle isn't inclined to be as kind to your bed cloth. The Aramith red logo or measles balls are the cue balls that go with the Super Pros (the measles ball with the TV set, the red logo wit the traditional set). But of course, if you buy these separately you can't be guaranteed what weight you'll get (5.5 oz to 6.0 oz is within spec).
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I shoot with the squiggly s ball that came with the set. Been shooting ghost 9 ball so I weighed the balls in the tray.:thumbup:

thanx,
thom
 
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