thoughts

thanks for the replies guys.

i think the cue makers here missed the point that its just for fun and not too serious. we are not making a 1000$ cue here. While the cue makers help and insight is appreciated, the amateaurs were much more helpful...so thank you as well.

It can be done... and it will be. The ideas mentioned here (relative to teh subject) will help greatly. thanks for the imagination spark.
 
The Piper said:
I have a really cheap manual lathe. Nothing special. just something that my friend and are have access to and playing around with. It spins wood basically. But now comes the question of tapering a cue. How do you taper you're cues? Anyone taper one by hand? Any thoughts on how to do it by hand?

The July/August 1986 issue of "FINE WOODWORKING" magazine, pages 67-69. An article written by Colorado Slim - title "TURNING A POOL CUE, a hustler shares his secret". Show him turning a shaft on a wooden lathe, and a brief description, how he cut the shaft.

You might contact the magazine company to obtain a photo copy of this article.
 
Sheldon said:
Train some beavers to chew the taper.... :D

No wonder you're in the Sanitarium, everyone knows that beavers only chew hockey sticks, sheesh ! Next thing you'll want Canadas national animal to start chewing baseball bats for Americas pastime :mad:

Seriously, I think, there might be a reasonable way to put a taper on a lump of wood using a simple turning lathe ... what about sanding it in using a full length straight-edge ? Take a piece of sanding belt and cut it so it is a long piece of sandpaper. Attach it to a long straightedge (like a 36" level or something like that). Now use this long sanding block on the entire lenght of the wood. You can assume that the taper will be straight, and by knowing the large and small end diameters (marked on the face perhaps ?), you'll know when to stop sanding. Chatter could be a problem, but there should be a way to dampen it considering that you have a nice static load running the entire length of the shaft/butt.

Dave, perhaps a crazy Canuk, but at least I know what beavers are good for !
 
DaveK said:
Seriously, I think, there might be a reasonable way to put a taper on a lump of wood using a simple turning lathe ... what about sanding it in using a full length straight-edge ? Dave, perhaps a crazy Canuk, but at least I know what beavers are good for !
Sanding that much would create heat and warp the shaft.
Trained beavers are the way to go.
 
If you want to taper in the wood lathe I would first try and get the piece running as slow as I could. Then I would try and build a rest/guide which you could run a router along. If you are going to attempt it with conventional turning tools you are definitely going to need a steady rest because chatter going to be a real b#tch. As Willee said be sure to let us know how you do, Best of luck.
 
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There's a young guy around here that has made a couple of cue butts on a wood lathe.The shafts come from an old Schon. They are really light, kinda thin, but hit the balls surprisingly well..He even has round inlays throughout that were made using a drill and stained dowel rod..Great conversation starter...Good Luck
 
Thomas Wayne insists that a playable cue can be made with a pocketknife; making a wood lathe fancy equipment.

I used to turn small things like drawer knobs on a drill press, by drilling a hole in the center and then hammering a larger drill bit into the hole and chucking the assembly up. I had to cut off corners with a chisle or saw, and I used a wood file and sandpaper to shape the pieces.

You can make anything you want with the most seriuosly deficient tools if you have time, patience, and are willing to make a lot of mistakes.

Also, I recall an issue of Fine Woodworking which had detailed instructions on hoiw to build a two-piece custom pool cue (even if you do have one), on a standard wood lathe with regular old gouges etc. The cue also had points which were done on a table saw.
 
Yes one can improvise

We are adaptive creatures when we have to be, and a hobbyist has the advantage of not needing to make a profit from his craft. Since beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and every mother loves her own child, then we will love the cue we make no matter how crude! I see one camp here of that opinion.

I also see many well intentioned craftsmen that want to turn out very well made products, and earn a living doing it. They wish to see things done right so as not to lower their art. I attempt to be one of them, and only time will tell if I deserve to be.

By elevating the craft as we use more hi tech equipment and materials, we wince at crude attempts by amateurs who do not wish to invest the many hours of time to learn woodworking, machinist skills, and spray painting techiques. The casual craftsman does not want to drain his savings in order to purchase quality lathes and mills. But he wants a decent cue as the end result of his casual endevour. Some may succeed. And many will quit after that shaft cracks at 1200 rpm and gives them that cleft chin that they never could get from family genetics!

I guess my wish here is that the amateur does not rush in, and he visits the local library and learns of some basic skills needed to ensure his safety and a knowledge of craft to at least give him a fighting chance to have some success. As far as cost effectiveness goes, it is cheaper to ask a cuemaker to make a good players cue for you, and ask for some specific features like taper and balance point, shaft diameter, etc. You have the satisfaction of owning a well crafted cue that you had input into, and us cuemakers have a chance to feed our families, and maybe have enough left over to put away a little towards the next wood purchase. But you know something? I got started as that stumbling amateur...
 
sorry, maybe we didnt mention... we are only working on a butt not a shaft. I plan to use my Schon or Ob1 on it.

turning a shaft on a wood lathe would be too dangerous
 
likeabankkid said:
sorry, maybe we didnt mention... we are only working on a butt not a shaft. I plan to use my Schon or Ob1 on it.

turning a shaft on a wood lathe would be too dangerous

I repeat, that anyone can turn a satisfactory butt taper, but the hardest part is drilling the hole for the joint screw. Now you say you want to ALSO put in a bushing. How are you going to do that? I wish I had some help for you on this,but I don't know how you would get it centered...JER
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
Trying to taper a shaft or butt is very dangerous without the proper equipment and training. DO NOT try with a single pointed tool - the wood will spring back into the tool; break in half and possibly hit you and cause very serious injury.

Don't you know if it was easy everybody would be doing it!

What's the big deal, it's just wood turning, I could turn a cue butt with hand tools in a brief time with no problem. I would have a little trouble making a perfect taper to the standards of manufactured pool cues but if I turned it a little over sized and took my time I could sand it pretty closely to a perfect taper. It would not even be that hard to put in the joint screw on a wood lathe if you know how. I used to me a member of a wood turning club and a lot of guys built pool cues as projects.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I repeat, that anyone can turn a satisfactory butt taper, but the hardest part is drilling the hole for the joint screw. Now you say you want to ALSO put in a bushing. How are you going to do that? I wish I had some help for you on this,but I don't know how you would get it centered...JER
The same way you would in any lathe with a small spindle bore. By using a steady rest. Providing you have enough length to the bed it should not be a big problem.
 
well the joint pin is going to be tough. this is just a fun project. not looking to sell anything.. even drilling / tapping by hand could work ... probably wont go that route.. but im going to worry about the taper first! :)
 
You want this as a fun project. Then do it for fun. Use some of the advice that was given and go to work. Have fun and in turn it will be a learning process. Knowledge is experience and experience comes from making mistakes.

I read on a web site a while back that someone wanted to know what equipment was required to make a cue and the answer given was a sharp pocket knife.

Good luck.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I repeat, that anyone can turn a satisfactory butt taper, but the hardest part is drilling the hole for the joint screw. Now you say you want to ALSO put in a bushing. How are you going to do that? I wish I had some help for you on this,but I don't know how you would get it centered...JER

I'm not a cuemaker, just an amateur-metalworking-hack, but when faced with this kind of problem my standard approach is to drill the hole first, then use it as a center and make the outside diameter concentric with the hole by turning. I appreciate that the direction of the hole must be perfectly alligned with the piece, otherwise the hole entry is concentric but 'tilted' to one side. A solution to this problem is to make a laminated butt. To make a 1.5" x 1.5" turning square with a hole through the center, start with 2 pieces of 0.75" x 1.5" wood, and run a core-bit down the center of the 1.5" face (one side only). Do this to both pieces, then glue them together, and you have a 1.5" turning square with a rough hole straight through the center. Clean it up with a long drill or reamer, then use the holes for centers.

Neccesity is the mother of invention. Drill the hole first.

Dave ... "what box ?"
 
olsonsview said:
We are adaptive creatures when we have to be, and a hobbyist has the advantage of not needing to make a profit from his craft. Since beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and every mother loves her own child, then we will love the cue we make no matter how crude! I see one camp here of that opinion.

I also see many well intentioned craftsmen that want to turn out very well made products, and earn a living doing it. They wish to see things done right so as not to lower their art. I attempt to be one of them, and only time will tell if I deserve to be.

By elevating the craft as we use more hi tech equipment and materials, we wince at crude attempts by amateurs who do not wish to invest the many hours of time to learn woodworking, machinist skills, and spray painting techiques. The casual craftsman does not want to drain his savings in order to purchase quality lathes and mills. But he wants a decent cue as the end result of his casual endevour. Some may succeed. And many will quit after that shaft cracks at 1200 rpm and gives them that cleft chin that they never could get from family genetics!

I guess my wish here is that the amateur does not rush in, and he visits the local library and learns of some basic skills needed to ensure his safety and a knowledge of craft to at least give him a fighting chance to have some success. As far as cost effectiveness goes, it is cheaper to ask a cuemaker to make a good players cue for you, and ask for some specific features like taper and balance point, shaft diameter, etc. You have the satisfaction of owning a well crafted cue that you had input into, and us cuemakers have a chance to feed our families, and maybe have enough left over to put away a little towards the next wood purchase. But you know something? I got started as that stumbling amateur...


Although I don't have the skills nor the time or ambition to aquire them, a good woodturner would have no trouble making a shaft on a wood lathe. When turning long spindles on a wood lathe, one or more live steady rests are utilized to limit any vibration and the sections in between these rests are turned to size, then the rests moved and the small, oversize rings are turned down to match.

Boils down to a primitive cue can be made on a wood lathe but chances are that a 10.00 Chinese cue bought at a flea market would probably be built much truer and better than one built on a wood lathe.

There are actually jigs that can be made that would allow the butts and shafts to be turned just as accuritley on a wood lathe as on a metal lathe if you think about it. Problems arise when trying to bore true, straight holes on a wood lathe.

Dick
 
DaveK said:
I'm not a cuemaker, just an amateur-metalworking-hack, but when faced with this kind of problem my standard approach is to drill the hole first, then use it as a center and make the outside diameter concentric with the hole by turning. I appreciate that the direction of the hole must be perfectly alligned with the piece, otherwise the hole entry is concentric but 'tilted' to one side. A solution to this problem is to make a laminated butt. To make a 1.5" x 1.5" turning square with a hole through the center, start with 2 pieces of 0.75" x 1.5" wood, and run a core-bit down the center of the 1.5" face (one side only). Do this to both pieces, then glue them together, and you have a 1.5" turning square with a rough hole straight through the center. Clean it up with a long drill or reamer, then use the holes for centers.

Neccesity is the mother of invention. Drill the hole first.

Dave ... "what box ?"

I'll describe a little later when I get a few minutes how to drill a perfect hole and install a screw with a wood lathe. Guys can even just take a house cue they like cut it down and joint it perfectly, for a sneaky pete. it's actually easy
 
macguy said:
I'll describe a little later when I get a few minutes how to drill a perfect hole and install a screw with a wood lathe. Guys can even just take a house cue they like cut it down and joint it perfectly, for a sneaky pete. it's actually easy
I don't doubt you Mac. I cut a old fat butt house cue and drilled and tapped a hole, 3/8-10. Turned out just right. The face was messed up though. I have a friend, who owns a Jet 13x40, he faced it for me and then I glued in the pin. So what I am saying is the pin hole did not give me a problem, but the joint face did. Of course in the back of my mind I always felt, that I may have been a little lucky, to get it perfect with such crude equipment.

How I got it done. I marked the center of the joint with a punch. I then tapped the fat end onto a spur center. Next I used a drill bit as a tail center. I turned the lathe by hand and advanced the drill bit into the wood. Once I had it started, I put the lathe on with the motor and finished drilling. Probably would have been a lot easier if I had a large chuck at the headstock, rather than the spur. A bearing steady would have also made it safer. In retrospect, I don't think I would try it again, without a steady rest. :rolleyes:

Tracy
 
macguy said:
I'll describe a little later when I get a few minutes how to drill a perfect hole and install a screw with a wood lathe. Guys can even just take a house cue they like cut it down and joint it perfectly, for a sneaky pete. it's actually easy
This I'd like to see.
 
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