Threading tennons at Tournament.
- Thread starter RocketQ
- Start date
I use Unique's die.
I use unique's die alsoJoeyInCali said:
Mine's custom laser engraved.billiardbum said:I use unique's die also
Me too.
Although I made a holder for the back of it that fits into my tailstock chuck. Its just a scrap piece of brass that has a slip fit into the hole in the back of the threader, and some oil to keep it spinning well. This makes it much easier to turn and ensure its straight (within the accuracy of the hole in the threader, of course).
Although I made a holder for the back of it that fits into my tailstock chuck. Its just a scrap piece of brass that has a slip fit into the hole in the back of the threader, and some oil to keep it spinning well. This makes it much easier to turn and ensure its straight (within the accuracy of the hole in the threader, of course).
I don't shy away from threading tenons anywhere. I just use my self aligning tenon threader and a little cue wax and go for it. The tenon threaders don't give as pretty of threads as you would get with a router and thread mill, but who cares as long as they are usable threads?
JoeyInCali said:
Me too. I didn't get an engraved one though....but I'm gonna go get my Sharpie right now!!!
I also use the unique, and have a dummy that mounts in My tailstock and fit the tenon sizing hole in the back end. Keeps it aligned & the setup works good enough for me on ferrules.
I have a 7x12 Myself, but have never tried it for threading ferrules. it's acurate enough for me to drill pins and turn stainless though, so I would think that would be acurate enough providing You could zero the shafts in.
Greg
I have a 7x12 Myself, but have never tried it for threading ferrules. it's acurate enough for me to drill pins and turn stainless though, so I would think that would be acurate enough providing You could zero the shafts in.
Greg
If you have not had good luck with a cue tenon threader, you may be cutting the tenon too large. .280" to .285" is about right, not .312". If you are using regular metal dies almost no one has luck with those. I used to make real compression threads using the ferrule. Compression dies have no slots in them. They compress the material forming a thread. I used to cut my tenon to .280 and put the glue in the ferrule and on the tenon using it for a lubricant and run the ferrule right on letting it create the threads. That is compression threads. When actually compressing threads on wood the chances of it jamming and twisting off the tenon go up greatly. That is why I recommend cutting the threads with a tenon threader or router.RocketQ said:
I have used uniques and prathers but I still don't like the finish I get.. I have a mini electric bench grinder 3.5 " and a sawblade I sharpened to a 60 degree point. I have yet to try it. The grinder is very quiet. I will probably make this work with a 7x10 or 7x12 mini lathe. I want to see if the blade is going to work before I get the mini lathe.
If it works, that'd be great.RocketQ said:
My Unique works fine except you can't leave a shoulder at the bottom.
Mine works great too, the threads come out about as good as I could expect for a die on wood, and the threads are very usable.
I make sure I wax the threads, because it does help a great deal, and the white candle type, like what it comes packaged with the threader seems to work best for me. I also blow the slit out with air as I'm threading the tenon. I think that makes threading easier & helps with tearout, by removing any chips that could become lodged.
When It was recomended to me By Sheldon, I believe it was, I got one to try out, and I first started using it by measuring the tenon when I cut it to size, and as Chris mentioned it was too large, even though it seemed the perfect size, and I was having some problems. Someone told me that the hole in the back was for sizing the tenon, so I tried that, and The threads started coming out pretty good, little By little I'd get a feel for how snug To get the tenon with that hole and the threading became easy and pretty clean for a die. it works plenty good enough to get a really good mechanical bond, and if I need to remove a ferrule to change it out later, I just have to heat it up unscrew it, and replace it with the new one. clean up is pretty easy because it unscrews clean on the threads. I just slightly reface the shoulder to be safe and install the new one.
I make sure I wax the threads, because it does help a great deal, and the white candle type, like what it comes packaged with the threader seems to work best for me. I also blow the slit out with air as I'm threading the tenon. I think that makes threading easier & helps with tearout, by removing any chips that could become lodged.
When It was recomended to me By Sheldon, I believe it was, I got one to try out, and I first started using it by measuring the tenon when I cut it to size, and as Chris mentioned it was too large, even though it seemed the perfect size, and I was having some problems. Someone told me that the hole in the back was for sizing the tenon, so I tried that, and The threads started coming out pretty good, little By little I'd get a feel for how snug To get the tenon with that hole and the threading became easy and pretty clean for a die. it works plenty good enough to get a really good mechanical bond, and if I need to remove a ferrule to change it out later, I just have to heat it up unscrew it, and replace it with the new one. clean up is pretty easy because it unscrews clean on the threads. I just slightly reface the shoulder to be safe and install the new one.
Cue Crazy said:
Everyone seems to keep recommending the use of wax when using these compression dies. Has anyone had any problems with the glue adhering properly with the wax on the threads? I know of people who won't use wax paper when gluing up points for fear of contamination. Also, on another note, making the tenon only .280 and then making threads that are going to make the tenon even thinner in the minors certainly can't be as strong as a normal .312 ferrule.
Dick
rhncue said:
I don't know what others experiences have been, But I haven't had a ferrule come loose yet, regardless of either epoxy or titebond used for glue. I felt much the same way as You, and wondered the same thing, but no problems so far, and I have been using It for over a year atleast. I don't get crazy with the wax though, and after threading, It doesn't seem too shiny. Perhaps the grain is still open enough to allow for good enough penatration of the glue. All I know is they hold, and If I want to change one out, then I have to heat It to loosen the same as any other ferrule. they also screw on the tenon nice and snug. Just My personal preference, but I'd rather do a slip tenon with materials that bond well, then use a compresion die anywhere else in the cue, but for ferrules this die works for me.
I can understand the thought behind the points and wax paper too, but remember there is no mechanical bond at all, they totally rely on the glue bond.
BTW, just an idea, and depends on how many are glued up at one time, but one way to possibly avoid contamination may be to set the points before even handling the wax paper. That way nothing ever gets near the mating surfaces. Greg
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I've found different diameters for different types of shafts too...I go .275 for solid maple...anything bigger and I twist 'em off or the threads will shred...purpleheart and laminated shafts I go to .280...cueman said:
RocketQ said:
I don't use any wax when I cut mine...
I have been using uniques die since I started doing threaded ferrules and never had one come loose, I just hand tighten. I use either candle or bees wax. I tend to wipe off any excess with a paper towel. I use epoxy if i have time but at a tourney or if someone need a ferrule job done quick I ues loctite 454. Never had any problems, Knock wood 