Thumb Straight Down

Zerksies

Well-known member
I've done some deep dives with high level players on grips and what makes each one work and one thing many had was maximum set points or tight spots in the wrist for stability...which fingers you primarily grip with and which part of the wrist you lock or at least add some stability to will influence where your thumb points. As someone said above, starting with the idea of thumb down and working around that may not be right for you as thumb position is a result of how you get down over the shot and anything you do to set your grip in your preshot routine.

A little on the tight spots if u care to jump into some minutia:
1 - the most common grip thought was to let the hand be loose and hang naturally as it cradles the cue. For the vast majority of ppl, the thumb will hang str8 down with an empty hand. However, once the cue is in hand, if the guiding thought is to leave the fingers where they are to cradle the cue, the thumb rests against the cue and comes off pointing towards the body slightly.
2 - Pronators/cockers. Those who have a rotation in forearm causing pronation (palm facing back) have a str8 down thumb and some tension (or lets call it extra stability through the front side (thumb side) of the wrist. Another common way players add stability through the front of the wirst is to cock the wrist. The slight cocking of the wrist is probably the most common stabilizer I came across. Actually most said they have no tension and it just hangs but when pressed for where the wrist feels stable they point out the anatomical snuffbox utilized in cocking the wrist. These guys can be front fingers focused or back fingers focused and the main way you can tell them apart from the pronators is that with pronators the back fingers come away from the cue and play a smaller role in the stroke while with the cockers, all the fingers stay more in line with the cue allowing for more play from the last 3 fingers.
3 - Suppinators/Flexors. These guys are more rare but in good company with guys that have a slight internal rotation. Strickland, Reyes, SVB, and just about every single side arm and chicken wing player (good ones exist!) play this type of grip....The more face-on the setup rather than sideways, the more likely a player is to use this type of grip (again, HOW YOU GET DOWN ON THE SHOT sets all this thumb pointing up and probably why most responses in this thread include "i never thought about the thumb at all"). The portion of the wrist that adds stability for these players is either the back pinky side (esp for players that like to feel the cue in their last 3 fingers), or in extreme sidearm/chickenwing cases the flexion of the wrist is (palm towards forearm) is maxed out for consitency and stability while still alowing for a lot of back and forth writst action on plane.
4 - Extenders. Related to #1, when a person with the loose hanging hand that has thumb pointing down decides to anchor around the thumb and get the fingers out of the way rather than keep the fingers where they are and let the thumb rest inwards, one common way to accomodate this is to have a bit of overextension in the writst (what most ppl will see as flexion on the outside of the wrist resulting more in palm down than palm back). Players that play with a firmer grip or middle 2-finger grip will generally prefer this type of setup.

Like someone else said, a good few chapters can be written on this topic and still some iterations will not get covered. Generally though, I agree with the thought that grip results from your preshot routine, how you get down on the ball, the angle of your stance relative to shot line, and any sort of guiding grip thoughts you might have like pointing thumb down, pointing first knuckles down, second knuckles down, lock out wrist forwards/backwards, either side, etc. The important thing is, that whatever you do, keep doing just that and you will find consistency.
I feel that it's something that is really over looked and not talked about. It's one of the parts of the stroke.

You have your grip, Bridge, elbow, shoulder and wrist. If you were to build a machine these are the things that would be needed to execute a basic shot.

If you want to do a draw shot and really get some action on the cue ball you need to loosen that grip. You wanna do a stop shot. I'm tightening my grip. If i have a really precise shot i am going to stiffen my fingers but keep my grip normal.

Right now i feel that if i keep the tips of my fingers in the groove of my thumb which is straight down is working the best for me. But if i need to loosen the grip i'm keeping my index and middle finger together, but using the thumb as an up and down guide.

Lots of variables in the grip hand.
 

telinoz

Registered
Just looked at photos of me playing, videos etc.. Yep, my thumb points straight down on my grip hand.
So, yeah.
Just feels natural.
 

Kjackxon

Member
I’m going to “take the shot” and respond to Bob’s question.
The answer lies in what makes a process routine, automatic and repeatable. Most runs end before they get started.
Why? Most errors result from not having a plan. The most important part of any billiard shot is knowing why you missed and how to correct - Take the shot!
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
.... The most important part of any billiard shot is knowing why you missed and how to correct - Take the shot!
This is the very important part of the shot sequence that many players -- and especially beginners -- leave out. When asked which side they missed on, it's 50-50 for some players. I don't know what they are paying attention to, but it's not the object ball. It's really hard to fix an aiming problem if you don't know whether you are hitting the balls too full or too thin.

After you observe what happens on a shot, the hard part starts. Did it go perfectly? Lock it in your good memories. Did the ball go in on the thick side of the pocket when you meant the center? There's room for improvement. Is there any obvious reason why you hit the shot too full? If the cue ball didn't go where you wanted, why? Is the pocketing error related to the position error?

Sometimes the post-shot analysis tells you that the shot you planned was impossible, like the draw to get the break out was not possible with a hit that's thin enough to make the ball.

I think you can learn faster if you do the finishing parts of the shot.
 
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alstl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ive heard from 2 well known instructors (one book , one youtube vid) that you should have your thumb pointing straight down in the grip.
Since humans have somewhat chimpanzee hands with the hands naturally turning inward, straight down causes a bit of a stretch.(about 30 degrees)
When I try this I can shoot straight but it takes some getting used to because I can feel the hand stretched.
Any one else have any experience with this ?
Who thinks its completely unnecessary?
Thx in advance.
Oh and one instructor was snooker , the other pool.
I was so inspired by this post that I went out and had surgery.

 

dquarasr

Registered
It's really hard to fix an aiming problem if you don't know whether you are hitting the balls too full or too thin.
…..
After you observe what happens on a shot, the hard part starts. Did it go perfectly? Lock it in your good memories. Did the ball go in on the thick side of the pocket when you meant the center? There's room for improvement. Is there any obvious reason why you hit the shot too full?
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten down on a shot, thought to myself (too thin/thick), shot it, missed, then asked myself “you saw you were (too thin/thick) but you shot it anyway. WHY?!?!?”

So, why TF do I (we?) do that? Sometimes I stand back up. Usually I get back down and it looks the same. Sometimes I get back down and I’ve made the adjustment and it looks right.

I’ve found that if I get down twice and it still looks wrong, it requires a walk around the table before getting down a third time. Then it looks right.

I just wonder why sometimes it takes a few times. If a shot clock was in play I’d be hosed. I also wonder why sometimes I shoot it anyway. WTH?!?
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Caution TL hazard next 200 words.

I don't know how many times I've used the term(s) "contact geometry" but I find the mystery of aiming far deeper and removed than simple alignment. That said, (probably again), simple alignment remains square one. The reason things look funny is _you're looking_. You're trying for a hologram of a one dimensional entity and it just won't happen. I always refer to the carpentry analogy. The carpenter does his measurements and computations and marks any references he needs. Only geometrically assured, will he proceed to do the task. Pencil dot says "drill here", there is no pause to second guess the appearance of the location. Pencil mark says blade here etc...

Pool is way simpler. For one thing there is a slop factor you won't find in carpentry until you dip into stick cabin territory and your only alignment problem is connecting yourself to the cue ball line.

Point your stick where the cue ball is to be shot. Get into an air stance and stroke this line. You will immediately see where your stroke goes relative to where it should go. This is stupid simple. If the stick swerves off the cue ball line, guess what?

So, how do get from that to "you made the shot!" Well it's a leap of faith that you have properly sighted the alignment and gotten into actual position but, recheck your alignment and make no adjustments. I watch the cue ball at this stage because part of my reasoning is the distortions - perspectual (I coined this) and parallax will skew your aim and necessitate a compensated stroke. If you can't bring yourself to look at the cue ball, close your eyes.
Work it till you get familiar with the process.

One more thing about shooting, The easiest way to check stroke alignment is long straight ins. Do the air sighting schtick at the shot out through the pocket. You will be able to detect minute deviations from 180 degrees. I close one eye doing this. On a pool table, straight will almost always be biased. This is a plus for this type of drill. You can shoot it as is (serves only to prove how straight or crooked you stroke) or check the alignment to various sections of the pocket and cover those as well. To cheat a straight in, simply check OB to the section you want and intersect that line with the line of ball centers. THAT is your angle. Go back to the previous steps and shoot.

Work it till you get it. The idea is to conform to what you now know is as perfect an alignment as you can establish without instruments. This is practice. No worries. Have at it.

If this is too long or unclear, resume wallowing.

Errdit: Ok back up there, a straight line is 2 dimensional but same diff.
 
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justnum

Billiards Improvement Research Projects Associate
Silver Member
14.1 breakshots are perfect for learning the precision differences of aiming and stroking. Checkout the straight pool section for diagrams and photos for exercises.

Most shots the differences of thin vs thick correction are barely visible. With 14.1 breakshots the critical target zone is narrow. This makes it a great choice for an aiming and stroking exercise.

Post in thread '14.1 beginner breaking'
https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/14-1-beginner-breaking.547140/post-7376242

My ability to read balls has dramatically improved due to this sole focus in my practice routine.
 

Kjackxon

Member
This is the very important part of the shot sequence that many players -- and especially beginners -- leave out. When asked which side they missed on, it's 50-50 for some players. I don't know what they are paying attention to, but it's not the object ball. It's really hard to fix an aiming problem if you don't know whether you are hitting the balls too full or too thin.

After you observe what happens on a shot, the hard part starts. Did it go perfectly? Lock it in your good memories. Did the ball go in on the thick side of the pocket when you meant the center? There's room for improvement. Is there any obvious reason why you hit the shot too full? If the cue ball didn't go where you wanted, why? Is the pocketing error related to the position error?

Sometimes the post-shot analysis tells you that the shot you planned was impossible, like the draw to get the break out was not possible with a hit that's thin enough to make the ball.

I think you can learn faster if you do the finishing parts of the shot.
This is sound and expert advice. Although I still struggle at times - My main focus is knowing ahead what’s needed for a specific shot, and playing into zones. If I’m not totally sure of making a shot (aim for the pro side) I’m not selling out to my opponent. Walking the table is like studying a Chessboard - It’s position and movement.
Note: Watching Matchroom has enhanced my understanding of the game.
 

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
It's nice seeing a post about body parts/positions etc. I took a ton a pics of the back hand of most every pro, what stuck out to me, other than the thumb down was a few top players, like Shane tuck it inward more than others.

My complaint with video production.
They never show the foot work of the pros, and the walk up and the waggle that's quite different in each player.
MR will hopefully incorporate these into their product, I know the PGA does this ALLOT, and gives announces another talking directive.
These body movements I look at very closely, especially players that are my height. 6'6''
 
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