Tiger Sniper Tips Delaminating?

nibrobus

nibrobus

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I like the way Tiger Sniper tips play but I've had a problem with them delaminating lately. I installed a tip on my playing cue and noticed I could "lift" the tip if I grab the sides and push to one side (the bottom 2-3 layers don't move but the rest of them "lean"). I also noticed a "clicking" sound when hitting some hard shots and the hit felt funny. A buddy of mine had one installed by a cuemaker about 2 months ago and that tip delaminated on him also. Anybody have any tips/suggestions to keep this from happening? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
The clicking is common, e.g. in Moori's. Honestly, tips can last quite a while. With a cheaper layerd tip (not Moori), I would cut off most of it and work from there. They're much more consistent at the bottom layers and will play much better that way. The click will go away once it's worn in. If you don't use a metal-toothed scraper or go crazy on it with a tip pick, you shouldn't have any delamination problems.
 
nibrobus said:
I like the way Tiger Sniper tips play but I've had a problem with them delaminating lately. I installed a tip on my playing cue and noticed I could "lift" the tip if I grab the sides and push to one side (the bottom 2-3 layers don't move but the rest of them "lean"). I also noticed a "clicking" sound when hitting some hard shots and the hit felt funny. A buddy of mine had one installed by a cuemaker about 2 months ago and that tip delaminated on him also. Anybody have any tips/suggestions to keep this from happening? Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...

I tried Snipers when they first came out and actually like them very much. However, it wound up delaming on me and a cue maker friend of mine said he had a whole batch that delamed. Despite liking them I haven't tried them since. Even though somebody told me they solved the problem, your experience would suggest they haven't solved it. I'll just stick with reliable Mooris.
 
The trick with the Sniper is in the install. Don't even try using a tool cutter on a lathe, no matter how sharp. First wet the sides of the tip then trim with a razor blade holding the blade almost flat against the ferrule and trimming toward the top of the tip while spinning on a lathe. I put on a lot of Snipers for the pros and have no problems using this method. If you can see the tip lift as you push from side to side...start over...its ruined. Tony from Tiger said you should not see any movement whatsoever with the Sniper.
In my opinion the Sniper is the finest playing tip available. I no longer use the Moori S on my personal cue.
 
nibrobus said:
I like the way Tiger Sniper tips play but I've had a problem with them delaminating lately. I installed a tip on my playing cue and noticed I could "lift" the tip if I grab the sides and push to one side (the bottom 2-3 layers don't move but the rest of them "lean"). I also noticed a "clicking" sound when hitting some hard shots and the hit felt funny. A buddy of mine had one installed by a cuemaker about 2 months ago and that tip delaminated on him also. Anybody have any tips/suggestions to keep this from happening? Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...

What you have there is a "blown out" tip. It should be removed and replaced. This happens during installation.

Take a look at the response above mine about installation.

We highly recommend this tool (http://www.tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16150&cat=243&page=1) for installation of all laminated cue tips.
 
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How do you use this "$30.00" blade? I've used single edged razor blades and exactos before, but not since I began using a lathe. Never had a problem trimming the sides of a Moori, or a few Snipers. I just put one on my White and I like it.
 
Actually you can use the large section snapped off a heavy duty (Olfa HB) blade replacement piece. There are 7 blades and the last one is 3 times the size of the others. I'm not responsible for any lost fingers...but this method works fine for me and several I know.;)
 
Deadon said:
How do you use this "$30.00" blade? I've used single edged razor blades and exactos before, but not since I began using a lathe. Never had a problem trimming the sides of a Moori, or a few Snipers. I just put one on my White and I like it.
Click to expand...

You use this blade just like you would razor blades. It does not flex while trimming and will give you a very clean cut. With only sharpening after every 3-4 tips, this blade can last you many, many years.
 
Sniper and Tip Installation

I have read the posts about sizing the Sniper tip down with a razor blade. However nothing was mentioned about burnishing the sides. Does a Sniper tip need to b burnished after down sizing as u would do a regular tip to prevent mushrooming? If so, would that burnishing destabilize the layering and lead to delamination? I have heard that some people use clear fingernail polish to strengthen the sides of the tip. Would that damage the Sniper lamination process? Should the side of the tip b made wet to aid in the down size trimming process?

I have a Tiger X shaft with a Sniper tip and I love it. :cool: I have a couple of other shafts that I would like to have a Sniper tip installed, but am somewhat afraid to take them to a local cue repairman in fear that he might ruin the tips.:eek:

Quick sumary:

Glue on a Sniper tip with black side to ferrule or away from the ferrule? Make sides wet and trim down to size using a razor blade. Then burnish the sides. Is this correct? Any additions/corrections? Thanx.
 
I have tried to use the Tiger burnishing solution when cutting the Sniper tip. i.e., I cut the tip with the burnishing solution wetting the edge, and it worked fine. But I cut it towards the ferrule, rather then away from it. I alwasy cut the tip towards the ferrule because I think that is how the pressure of the hit would come down on the tip. I also sand the tip and shape it by hand with a file sanding the tip down, never up.

I did not use water because I always thought water might soften the leather and cause the tip to mushroom faster.

May be I should try water, since the burnishing solution has quite an unpleasant ordour.:p

I have seen some people using sand paper and sand the edge of the Sniper when trying to trim it, I think that caused too much heat and caused the delamination.

I also do not spend too much time to burnish the edge, may be 30 sec max.

The Sniper holds chalk really well. They do not really mushroom that much.

Richard
 
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hi,

I own a very large pool hall and I do a lot of cue repair. I have come to a conclusion that when it comes down to layered tips, Moori are the only way to go. Moori tips are very consistant and a predictable concerning installation. In my opinion all of the other layered tips suck.

Many of the other layered tips do not measure up to Moori and I have seen many problems with delamination, mushrooming, and blow out. For these reasons, I do not stock anything other than Moori and will only install other laminated tips if the customer supplies same. Moori is the only tip that I gurantee. If someone tells me I have to buy something or I have to cut a tip in a special way, then I feel that there is some kind of problem that needs to be worked around to install the inferior tip. It's all about the glue in layered tips.

As for people liking Sniper, Talisman, Everest, or Kamui ect., I would like to state that the tip is a fuction of its hardness. If you like a tip with a durameter of 70 then any tip with a 70 durameter will play to your liking. When a player finds a tip they like they want to identify with a brand name not a number.

Rick G
 
scdiveteam said:
hi,

I own a very large pool hall and I do a lot of cue repair. I have come to a conclusion that when it comes down to layered tips, Moori are the only way to go. Moori tips are very consistant and a predictable concerning installation. In my opinion all of the other layered tips suck.

Many of the other layered tips do not measure up to Moori and I have seen many problems with delamination, mushrooming, and blow out. For these reasons, I do not stock anything other than Moori and will only install other laminated tips if the customer supplies same. Moori is the only tip that I gurantee. If someone tells me I have to buy something or I have to cut a tip in a special way, then I feel that there is some kind of problem that needs to be worked around to install the inferior tip. It's all about the glue in layered tips.

As for people liking Sniper, Talisman, Everest, or Kamui ect., I would like to state that the tip is a fuction of its hardness. If you like a tip with a durameter of 70 then any tip with a 70 durameter will play to your liking. When a player finds a tip they like they want to identify with a brand name not a number.

Rick G
Click to expand...

You opinion and feedback is appreciated; however it is simply that - an opinion.

You'd probably more prefer a Dynamite or Emerald in the Tiger lineup as they are much more durable on the installs, but Mr. Varney's post holds much truth in the adventures of installing laminated tips.
 
Delamination

Heat is the enemy. Not doing anything to create excessive heat is the key. A sharp razor knife is a must. Tiger, Kamui, or Moori, I haven't had any delam problems. :cool:
 
I use a sniper, it has held it's shape remarkably well.

Sometimes it hits a little hard (concrete like ) but no real gripes.
 
Tiger

Hi,
I remember that I somewhere saw a "almost" complete list of different tips, hardness etc. Anyone knows where?
Sniper, have tried them but also had bad luck with them -long time ago, havn´t tried them since however. Have to give them a try now with all the cred they are given. Have anyone tried the Tiger S?
I got a new cue the other day and it was Triangle on it and even if I "hate" the look - don´t burnish at all..... I like the feel of them. It was such a long time ago I played with any one piece tip I kind of forgot.
Can anyone give me a tip or two wich tip that burns and look "good" and has that nice "thump" like Triangle? And of course are a bit more consistent.

Chrippa/Sweden
 
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