Tiger X shafts...Low deflection?

K

Koop

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Right now I play with a Universal Smart Shaft RS model and love it. I never really considered it to be low deflection and was wondering how the Tiger X stacks up against it.
According to Platinum Billiards my RS shaft has lower deflection than the Tiger X shaft. Based on this I will certainly consider buying one but would appreciate anyone's opinion.

Thank you,
Koop
 
I think you would be VERY happy with a tiger x shaft. I have shot with a tiger x shaft for about a year and a half now, and absolutely love it. I think you would be impressed with it's low deflection. Just my 2 cents.
 
do u just have the tiger shaft?or the whole cue?im considering buying a tiger cue ,ive heard good things bout them rather then the predator shaft, i have a $200 viking and i just had a tiger tip installed its so new that i havent even used it lol but i was hoping to get a feel of the tiger with the tip ....
 
seanjonsean said:
do u just have the tiger shaft?or the whole cue?im considering buying a tiger cue ,ive heard good things bout them rather then the predator shaft, i have a $200 viking and i just had a tiger tip installed its so new that i havent even used it lol but i was hoping to get a feel of the tiger with the tip ....
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I have a tiger cue coming on Tuesday. I can give you a review soon.
 
Thanks guys.

I think what I'm looking for is whether or not this shaft compares closely to Predator. I am not a fan of Predator shafts so I'm hoping it's closer in comparison to my Universal than it is to Predator.
In other words, does this shaft require a learning curve like Predator or is it an easy transition from a standard maple shaft.

Regards,
Koop
 
The X shafts deflects a lot more than a Predator 314. I would say if you are used to a standard maple shaft, you should make the transition more quickly.
 
Koop said:
In other words, does this shaft require a learning curve like Predator or is it an easy transition from a standard maple shaft.
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I've been playing with a 314 shaft for the last couple of years and i'm so used to the way a predator plays that when I pick up a cue with a regular shaft it feels awkward the first few shots. I have concentrate on how much to allow for deflection on shots with english using a regular shaft after playing with the 314 shafts.
 
I played with a 314 for a couple years and recently got a Tiger X. My game has stepped up as a result. The Tiger X has a more stiff hit and not as "whippy". I notice this especially on the break as the X is much better IMO. As far as deflection, I don't see much difference between the two when trying the same kinds of shots.

In the end, it's whatever you feel more comfortable with. I like the feel of the Tiger X and have made the switch very easy.
 
Koop said:
Thanks guys.

I think what I'm looking for is whether or not this shaft compares closely to Predator. I am not a fan of Predator shafts so I'm hoping it's closer in comparison to my Universal than it is to Predator.
In other words, does this shaft require a learning curve like Predator or is it an easy transition from a standard maple shaft.

Regards,
Koop
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I personally don't consider X shaft a low deflection shaft like 314 or OB-1 shafts.

Not sure how Universal RS shaft hits. I've owned LS shaft and x shaft is definitely not as stiff as LS shaft.

Having said that I know few guys that play with x shafts locally and they are loyal to it.
 
Koop said:
Right now I play with a Universal Smart Shaft RS model and love it. I never really considered it to be low deflection and was wondering how the Tiger X stacks up against it.
According to Platinum Billiards my RS shaft has lower deflection than the Tiger X shaft. Based on this I will certainly consider buying one but would appreciate anyone's opinion.

Thank you,
Koop
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Deflection-wise, the Tiger "X" Laminated shaft would be somewhere inbetween Predator 314 and a convetional shaft (publicly available testing results of the X-Shaft are very old (2-3 years old + & from a 1st edition model at best).

Compared to a Universal RS, the X-Shaft will cause less cue ball deflection. Most people find that it is not extreme enought to cause a difficult transistion from the conventional shaft.

Reduced squirt, retaining solid hit/feel and radially consistent are the goals of the X-Shaft. High-end Sniper Cue Tip, Saber-T Ferrules, never wear out threaded phenolic joint inserts (Radial & 3/8-10) and UV Laquer Coating are just a few extras.
 
Jazz said:
I personally don't consider X shaft a low deflection shaft like 314 or OB-1 shafts.

Not sure how Universal RS shaft hits. I've owned LS shaft and x shaft is definitely not as stiff as LS shaft.

Having said that I know few guys that play with x shafts locally and they are loyal to it.
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Guys, thanks again and this is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'll be giving the X-Shaft a go.

Regards,
Koop
 
CrownCityCorey said:
Deflection-wise, the Tiger "X" Laminated shaft would be somewhere inbetween Predator 314 and a convetional shaft (publicly available testing results of the X-Shaft are very old (2-3 years old + & from a 1st edition model at best).

Compared to a Universal RS, the X-Shaft will cause less cue ball deflection. Most people find that it is not extreme enought to cause a difficult transistion from the conventional shaft.

Reduced squirt, retaining solid hit/feel and radially consistent are the goals of the X-Shaft. High-end Sniper Cue Tip, Saber-T Ferrules, never wear out threaded phenolic joint inserts (Radial & 3/8-10) and UV Laquer Coating are just a few extras.
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How about offering a no-ferrule option?:eek:
Cut off 3MM thick of Sabre. Epoxy it, and tip it?
Do it cleaner than I did to my scrap shaft though. :)
If you wanna bore a hole, that's your business.
 

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JoeyInCali said:
How about offering a no-ferrule option?:eek:
Cut off 3MM thick of Sabre. Epoxy it, and tip it?
Do it cleaner than I did to my scrap shaft though. :)
If you wanna bore a hole, that's your business.
Click to expand...

wow.
how's it play?
 
CrownCityCorey said:
(publicly available testing results of the X-Shaft are very old (2-3 years old + & from a 1st edition model at best).
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I think that if Tiger made significant changes to the shaft, it would be helpful to consumers if there were some way to distinguish. Somewhat like 314 and 314^2.

When I tried an X shaft, I liked the feel/hit. It did deflect a lot more than a 314 (but some people might prefer that)
 
weight

What is the average weight on one of the Tiger radial thread shafts?Just wondered how they compare weightwise with a quality maple shaft.Thanx,Mike S.
 
shinobi said:
I think that if Tiger made significant changes to the shaft, it would be helpful to consumers if there were some way to distinguish. Somewhat like 314 and 314^2.

When I tried an X shaft, I liked the feel/hit. It did deflect a lot more than a 314 (but some people might prefer that)
Click to expand...

1st Generation Tiger X-Shafts had a branded "TigerX" logo near the joint. They had a more conical taper like a "Billiard" shaft and also used the conventional wood tenon and 1 inch ferrule.

2nd generation shafts have a 25-30% smaller branded logo than the 1st. Significant changes from the 1st to 2nd gen shafts were; shorter "Tiger Concept" ferrule (reversed tenon) shaft taper (new Pro Taper), wood selection (fewer sugar lines and cosmetic imperfections), threaded phenolic inserts that won't weat our for 3/8-10 and Radial joints and our lamination technique (less visible lamination).

3rd generation shafts (where we are now) have the "TigerX" logo as a decal under the lacquer. Differences from 2nd to 3rd would be; UV Lacquer, Saber-T ferrule, lamination method (no visible lamination line), wood selection (very clean and bright wood) and far superior wood sealing and finish waxing process.

4th generation and beyond. Just wait and see. We are working on many great things :) .

Behind the scenes we have improved dramatically. Mind you, Tiger "X" Shafts are still hand made in our Burbank, Ca factory (visitors welcome).
 
just some questions for corey..

Why did Tiger decide to make the change from a wood tenon sleeved ferrule to a solid chunk of ferrule on the tip? I've heard cuemakers state that having the tip glued to both the exposed tenon and ferrule results in better feel and less squirt.

Do you think that reducing the diameter of the shaft and shortening the ferrule will reduce the squirt even more?

Also, what is the length of the ferrule on the newest tiger shafts?

Thx,
IM
 
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