hey guys, i need some help with gluing a tip. the tip is a white diamond, the old ones before the formula changed. it is a smooth white plastic material, very similar to ferrule material. i've heard they changed the formula because it was difficult to glue. which is the problem i'm having with a friend's tip. i did one with 'special-t' cyanoacrylate and it popped off. the second i tried devcon 5 min epoxy and it also popped off. any recommendations on what glue to use to get this friggin tip to stay on? i've never had problems with any leather or phenolic tip before. thanks!
tip bonding help
- Thread starter McChen
- Start date
McChen said:
I have put them on as Varney described once. I drilled and tapped both the ferrule and tip with a either 4 or 6X32 tap and used J/B Weld and used it to glue everything together. I drilled about half way into the back of the tip. I've done this three times and they have all held. I've never had any luck using Devcon 5-min to hold on any tip but I've heard that others have. I may clamp them to tightly squeezing most of the epoxy out.
Dick
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how far did you go into the ferrule?
forgive my ignorance, but what is a 6x32 all-thread? i assume a piece of threaded rod? what is it made out of?
i think i might try gluing with the j-b kwik weld just to see how that holds. if that doesn't work, i'll have to try the tenon and thread method you described.
forgive my ignorance, but what is a 6x32 all-thread? i assume a piece of threaded rod? what is it made out of?
i think i might try gluing with the j-b kwik weld just to see how that holds. if that doesn't work, i'll have to try the tenon and thread method you described.
I've got two WD tips on break shafts. Both were done with Gorilla Glue, and both are holding well. Just don't shortcut the prep work. A less than flat ferrule cost me one comeback a while ago. Mine are about 2 years old, so I don't know if they were the older or newer material.
Bill
Bill
i made sure to prep the surfaces really well and face off perfectly flat, so i know it's just a matter of finding the right glue. the mechanical threading method that dick described seems like it will definitely hold, but i'd like to try regular gluing before i start drilling some guys ferrule, hehe.
if you got your tips 2 years ago, then you have the old ones. the guy i'm doing it for doesn't like the new ones. the new ones are more cream colored, layered, and has a fine weave in it. the old ones are whiter, and a solid piece of smooth white plastic-type material. supposedly the new ones glue better, that's the main reason they changed it.
if you got your tips 2 years ago, then you have the old ones. the guy i'm doing it for doesn't like the new ones. the new ones are more cream colored, layered, and has a fine weave in it. the old ones are whiter, and a solid piece of smooth white plastic-type material. supposedly the new ones glue better, that's the main reason they changed it.
i had one pop off after an afternoon of use,, the old bright white ones.
i put a fiber disk on and reglued with loctite gel , that was 2 months ago, so far so good.
i also put one on a cutec j/b . used it for 6 months with no problem.maybe it also has something to do with the ferral type.
carl
i put a fiber disk on and reglued with loctite gel , that was 2 months ago, so far so good.
i also put one on a cutec j/b . used it for 6 months with no problem.maybe it also has something to do with the ferral type.
carl
Try this, scratch the bottom of the tip with 80 grit paper, wet the ferrule's face and use Gorilla glue.
thanks joey...i rough all my tips and usually the ferrule face with some 60 grit before gluing. gorilla glue and j-b kwik weld seems to be the most recommended glues for difficult to bond surfaces, i'm going to try them. good reminder about wetting one surface for the gorilla glue...
Over the past year I have put on approx. 100 of the WD's. In the very beginning, I experienced some of them popping off. Now, all I do is to score the glue side of the tip using four cuts one way and then four cuts crossway. Score somewhat deeply but no need to over do it. Medium pressure is all you need.
Breath heavily on the tip a couple of times to apply a hint of moisture and then apply either Loctite 454 or 409. They both seem to work equally well for me. You may not have to score the tip as much as I have indicated, but that is what works for me and I have not experimented since this works 100% of the time now.
Gene
Breath heavily on the tip a couple of times to apply a hint of moisture and then apply either Loctite 454 or 409. They both seem to work equally well for me. You may not have to score the tip as much as I have indicated, but that is what works for me and I have not experimented since this works 100% of the time now.
Gene
I just cut a 1/4" stem on the back of my j/b tips when I make them. Thread them 5/16-18 and then bore & tap an unbreakable ferrule to accept the tip. Done this way....glue really isn't an issue. I use CA but Elmers would probably hold it. Its the sheer force side to side from a miss-hit that makes them pop off. With the stem this is cured and one will never pop off. I'd NEVER use a phenolic style tip thats simply glued onto a ferrule...some may be lucky...but its a disaster waiting to happen. Why risk it when it can be cured correctly.