Tip burnish

Buster8001

Did you say shrubberies?
Silver Member
Doesn’t matter. The wax melts into the side of the tip and is absorbed.

Tell me how wax will melt into the side wall of a burnished tip? Especially when no heat is generated with my final sealing using the wax. I take my block of beeswax and run it down the side of the ferrule and the side wall of the tip, then come right behind with a paper towel. The only thing the wax is doing is shining and sealing from moisture. I've been doing it for years.
 

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Tell me how wax will melt into the side wall of a burnished tip? Especially when no heat is generated with my final sealing using the wax. I take my block of beeswax and run it down the side of the ferrule and the side wall of the tip, then come right behind with a paper towel. The only thing the wax is doing is shining and sealing from moisture. I've been doing it for years.

What’s the point of using wax in a manner it’s not intended for, and not applying it in a manner that actually achieves the results you’re looking for?? Just to attract more chalk dust to the side of the tip? It’s not sealing anything unless you are melting the wax into the grains of the leather. And it’s also laughable that you think burnishing a tip is making the side wall of the tip impenetrable. That would kill every soft tip out there.
 

Buster8001

Did you say shrubberies?
Silver Member
What’s the point of using wax in a manner it’s not intended for, and not applying it in a manner that actually achieves the results you’re looking for?? Just to attract more chalk dust to the side of the tip? It’s not sealing anything unless you are melting the wax into the grains of the leather. And it’s also laughable that you think burnishing a tip is making the side wall of the tip impenetrable. That would kill every soft tip out there.

What's laughable is your attitude and the entire above statement.

I use the wax in my intended manner, and it achieves the exact result I want - shining and sealing. Chalk is going to be on the side of the tip EVERY TIME YOU CHALK THE TIP. That was one of your more than usual moronic statements. Why do you think the side walls of a tip are burnished? Hmmm...maybe to SEAL and HARDEN them to prevent mushrooming and moisture wicking.

Instead of spreading your drivel to me, why don't you try to answer the original poster in a direct manner. Maybe you can offer him a different point of view on the matter at hand.
 
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Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What's laughable is your attitude and the entire above statement.

I use the wax in my intended manner, and it achieves the exact result I want - shining and sealing. Chalk is going to be on the side of the tip EVERY TIME YOU CHALK THE TIP. That was one of your more than usual moronic statements. Why do you think the side walls of a tip are burnished? Hmmm...maybe to SEAL and HARDEN them to prevent mushrooming and moisture wicking.

Instead of spreading your drivel to me, why don't you try to answer the original poster in a direct manner. Maybe you can offer him a different point of view on the matter at hand.

I have never seen a leather tip not mushroom. It helps combat excessive mushrooming, but never prevents. And it does not prevent moisture wicking at all. If it did, there would be no need for these black leather tips designed specifically for that intent. Unless your tip is blue to begin with, using wax will make it blue after one chalking. So far you’re two for two on being wrong. I’ve tried multiple different methods for making the sidewalls of a tip look pretty/burnished. Only two things I’ve found work, and the Tiger burnishing liquid isn’t one. A little spit and a piece of leather/paper/money, or if you’ve cleaned the ferrule with the tip install. A little liquid polishing compound and polish the ferrule. Then when the rag is nearly dry, burnish the tip. I will never use wax again after I figured out it wasn’t fool proof. Half a second is all it takes for wax to wrong. I prefer methods that allow me to blink while I work.
 

3kushn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Spit and a piece of leather belt I cut in 1973.
If I forget to put that back in the case, the before mentioned dollar bill, calling card, note card, .....

My best tip tapper is a 3" section of a 16" Mill Bastard file.

I'd imagine cue builders would us a cotton wheel off their buffer. Or some such thing. Lot quicker than by hand.
But I'm not a cuemaker.
 
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Sensation

right there
Silver Member
I have never seen a leather tip not mushroom. It helps combat excessive mushrooming, but never prevents. And it does not prevent moisture wicking at all. If it did, there would be no need for these black leather tips designed specifically for that intent. Unless your tip is blue to begin with, using wax will make it blue after one chalking. So far you’re two for two on being wrong. I’ve tried multiple different methods for making the sidewalls of a tip look pretty/burnished. Only two things I’ve found work, and the Tiger burnishing liquid isn’t one. A little spit and a piece of leather/paper/money, or if you’ve cleaned the ferrule with the tip install. A little liquid polishing compound and polish the ferrule. Then when the rag is nearly dry, burnish the tip. I will never use wax again after I figured out it wasn’t fool proof. Half a second is all it takes for wax to wrong. I prefer methods that allow me to blink while I work.
Welcome to 2023,
Here's what Chat GPT has to say on the subject:

Beeswax is commonly used as a leather conditioner and protector due to its water-resistant and nourishing properties. When applied to leather, beeswax does penetrate the surface to some extent, but the extent of penetration depends on various factors, including the type and condition of the leather, as well as the formulation of the beeswax product.

Beeswax tends to stay on the surface of the leather, forming a protective layer that helps repel water and prevent the leather from drying out. However, it may not deeply penetrate the leather fibers, especially if the leather is heavily treated or has a protective finish.


I think scuffing the tip with 220 grit before the wax has a chance to ''penetrate'' or harden is good practice. You don't want wax at the end of the tip where it makes contact with the cueball.
 

DeeDeeCues

Well-known member
Welcome to 2023,
Here's what Chat GPT has to say on the subject:

Beeswax is commonly used as a leather conditioner and protector due to its water-resistant and nourishing properties. When applied to leather, beeswax does penetrate the surface to some extent, but the extent of penetration depends on various factors, including the type and condition of the leather, as well as the formulation of the beeswax product.

Beeswax tends to stay on the surface of the leather, forming a protective layer that helps repel water and prevent the leather from drying out. However, it may not deeply penetrate the leather fibers, especially if the leather is heavily treated or has a protective finish.


I think scuffing the tip with 220 grit before the wax has a chance to ''penetrate'' or harden is good practice. You don't want wax at the end of the tip where it makes contact with the cueball.

Proof only that ChatGPT is BS.
 

Sensation

right there
Silver Member
Hahaha! It's definitely not always ''right''.

So, cuemakers, what do you use to burnish the sides of the tip and to keep it that way as long as possible?

Here are my next tries:
-Tokonole
-Resolene
 

slim123

Active member
Any of you chaps recommend anything specific as a "sidewall" burnish medium for tips?
Thanks in advance.
Joe P
Usually, out of habit, i clean shaft that i install a tip on, before i shape the tip. The tip has already been cut to the diameter of the shaft. I seal with a vinyl sealer, then spin it and let it dry. Then i shape the tip. The sealer seems to do a good job , I burnish afterwards, when the sealer hardens up
 

Sensation

right there
Silver Member
Usually, out of habit, i clean shaft that i install a tip on, before i shape the tip. The tip has already been cut to the diameter of the shaft. I seal with a vinyl sealer, then spin it and let it dry. Then i shape the tip. The sealer seems to do a good job , I burnish afterwards, when the sealer hardens up
Would you mind sharing the vinyl sealer's name and brand?
 

slim123

Active member
Probably not if you go with a soft tip you have to accept the consequences. a lot of maintainance and less focus on the game at hand. The soft tips mushroom and compress, eventually, depending on stroke and power, you end up with a medium or hard tip in the end
If you sucessfully burnish, then the stress on the tip goes the other way it doesn't stay soft
Find your tip and go with it
 
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Coos Cues

Coos Cues
I use thin ca then after it's dry shellac and a fat leather scrap to lightly polish. I feel the CA stabilizes the outer leather on the tip without compromising the scuffed area you will chalk. I have heard lots of people say CA is a bad idea on tip sidewalls but my observations don't confirm this one iota.
 

Hard Knock Cues

Well-known member
A pool room owner showed me how to do this years ago. I've been using a little spit and rubbing it on table cloth ( on my tables rail ) while spinning the shaft in my hand. I've tried the Tiger burnishing liquid but not getting good results. I get better results with the cloth than leather.

I know some of you are thinking it's going to mess up my table but I use a different spot each time and it doesn't show. As I'm starting to do more tip jobs I will build a little holder from some old rubber rail and scrap cloth and not use the table.
 
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