Tip Cure Time

Palmetto cue

Palmetto cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Got a question I've been wondering about. How long do you think you wait after gluing a new tip before you begin to trim. Reason I ask is I started paying more attention after i had a tip pop off while beginning to tim a tip. I knew I was beginning to trim sooner than I normaly do. I try to wait 5 to 8 minutes and this tip was mybe 3 minutes on. I re-prepped the ferrule and tip and waited like normal and it was fine. So how long, or do you even think much about it? Thanks in advance for your input.
Mikey
 
I set a timer for 10 minutes. Most times I have move over to another project and the timer is more of a reminder that I have a tip setting. 10 minutes is the quickest timeframe, most of the time its more around 15-20.
Dave
 
In my case,I hold pressure for 15 seconds or so then reach for a paper towel to wipe off the squeeze-out,then grip it as tight as I can with my right hand and try to make the tip come off or move.

I prep every tip and ferrule the same way,so I know at that point my work is solid.

Now,keep in mind the tip has been on the ferrule for less than 60 seconds.

In some cases,mainly with Predator shafts,the glue doesn't like to set until I use the spray-type CA accelerator. Not every time,but it does happen. My glue of choice for 6 years now has been Loctite Professional.

By the time I've checked for movement,it's ready for cutting immediately. Tommy D.
 
Depending on how much I have to do, I usually wait as long as I can, just to be on the safe side.
If I have lots of tip changes to do, I'll prep and glue all the shafts, when I'm done with that, I'll go back to the first shaft, trim and shape that tip and so on.
Seems to be a good way to do multiple tip changes.
 
Glue it on ........... cut it in 10 seconds........ shoot with it

with proper preparation....... tips will not pop off

Kim
 
It's safe to give it some time. Depending on ferrule material and tip, the glue may not set as rapidly, so it's a good idea to wait a little bit. I notice a difference in the time between LePros & Triangles. Even bigger difference with certain layered tips.
 
qbilder said:
Bsi ic-gel. Used to use Loc-Tite gel.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I meant to ask the original poster.
Some CA's are better.
Loctite 454 if you want the fastest and the best imo.
But, pricier.
I've had no problems with Loctite Pro Gel.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Sorry, I meant to ask the original poster.
Some CA's are better.
Loctite 454 if you want the fastest and the best imo.
But, pricier.
I've had no problems with Loctite Pro Gel.
Click to expand...

They all work ok for me. I can't say I notice any of them work better or worse. I use the BSI because it comes in a big tube and is always available.
 
qbilder said:
They all work ok for me. I can't say I notice any of them work better or worse. I use the BSI because it comes in a big tube and is always available.
Click to expand...
Right now I use Stickfast gel. I get it from Highland Woodwoks. It does a great job, but like some of you I have noticed a longer cure time with some ferrules. Thanks so much for all the responces. As usual, all of you are very helpful! :thumbup:
 
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JoeyInCali said:
What glue do you use?
Click to expand...


Right now I use Stickfast gel. I get it from Highland Woodwoks. It does a great job, but like some of you I have noticed a longer cure time with some ferrules. Thanks so much for all the responces. As usual, all of you are very helpful! :thumbup:
 
Have trouble getting my head around this: when you glue on a new tip how does spraying the area of ferrule/tip with accelerant speed up the drying/curing process?... in that you are not spraying directly the actual contact area but around the outside of it. Can someone make some layman-sense of what takes place here?
 
TeeA said:
Have trouble getting my head around this: when you glue on a new tip how does spraying the area of ferrule/tip with accelerant speed up the drying/curing process?... in that you are not spraying directly the actual contact area but around the outside of it. Can someone make some layman-sense of what takes place here?
Click to expand...

The outside area is still in contact with air. Oxygen in the air blocks the cure/hardening of the cyano. Therefore squeezed off glue should be wiped off to speed the hardening. After that, the small “glue line” has still contact with air. Now you can use the accelerator to cure that edge fast.

My 2 pesos.
Olaf
 
I use 401 and wait 5 mins. Haven't had a problem since I switched. I'm never in a real hurry though. I'm sure it kicks much faster. I put a couple drops on a paper towel and blow on it to see if, IMO, it's still okay. If it starts smoking quickly, I feel confident it's good to use on a tip.
 
pescadoman said:
I use 401 and wait 5 mins. Haven't had a problem since I switched. I'm never in a real hurry though. I'm sure it kicks much faster. I put a couple drops on a paper towel and blow on it to see if, IMO, it's still okay. If it starts smoking quickly, I feel confident it's good to use on a tip.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's a new one!
 
cuetips1000 said:
The outside area is still in contact with air. Oxygen in the air blocks the cure/hardening of the cyano. Therefore squeezed off glue should be wiped off to speed the hardening. After that, the small “glue line” has still contact with air. Now you can use the accelerator to cure that edge fast.

My 2 pesos.
Olaf
Click to expand...
Thanks Olaf! Still using your tip centering device! Works like a charm!
 
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