Tip hardness Vs. table quickness
- Thread starter brulez
- Start date
I'm not a pro, i'm not an instructor, i'm not a cue maker... that being said..
Going to a new place and having your speed control be off and wondering about a tip change to correct the problem just seems off to me.
Keep your tip the same if you like it, learn to adjust to new tables/cloth/humidity using a few drills if you have the time or just a few lags/banks if you don't have the time. If you are travelling a lot or even playing league in multiple places you can't ask to have someone change your tip from location to location... you have to learn to adjust to your environment.
Going to a new place and having your speed control be off and wondering about a tip change to correct the problem just seems off to me.
Keep your tip the same if you like it, learn to adjust to new tables/cloth/humidity using a few drills if you have the time or just a few lags/banks if you don't have the time. If you are travelling a lot or even playing league in multiple places you can't ask to have someone change your tip from location to location... you have to learn to adjust to your environment.
brulez
cut master
Yes, and i don't change the tip often and i'm use to it.. but i have been deployed and have been shooting on a table for a while and i'm fairly comfortable with it.. i was just looking for some ideas/advice that might help out.. i'm not far off from placement. only like .5 of a inch.. but it does seem to have a lil bothering to me.. thank you for your advice!
I dont think the tip will make a diffrence, I feel its all it the stroke if your playing on a slow table hit the ball a little firmer. If you play on a fast table then adjust your stroke.
Think about it if you play in one tourny and they have fast tables then the next place you play has slow tables are you going to change your tip everytime you play at a diffrent place ? Or even one place with fast and slow tables.
I played on some on the slowest tables in Iraq to some fast as hell tables back home in Massachusetts all with the same wizzard hard tip.
Think about it if you play in one tourny and they have fast tables then the next place you play has slow tables are you going to change your tip everytime you play at a diffrent place ? Or even one place with fast and slow tables.
I played on some on the slowest tables in Iraq to some fast as hell tables back home in Massachusetts all with the same wizzard hard tip.
So i have been trying to shoot on a differnt table now. and it seems that i just don't get my placement like i use to and it is bothering me alot.. i need to retip soon, and i was wondering what your thoughts/advice on tip hardness vs. the table felt/cloth quickness.??
Maybe if you pop the bumper off the back and insert a weight bolt you can better slow your stroke on fast tables! Throw one in your bag and a wrench to twist it in and your off to the races.
The tip change is ok if you are putting it on your extra shaft and have one soft and one hard!! switching shafts is normal!!! like switching clubs in golf!!!
All good advice, but remember that tip hardness has no relationship with the table you're playing on. How a table plays can change from day to day, depending on temperature and humidity as well as the condition of the cloth, ie; old versus new.
Have an Everest installed on the end of your cue, keep it correctly shaped, and forget about it.
Have an Everest installed on the end of your cue, keep it correctly shaped, and forget about it.
Actually COR has tons todo with speed and hardness can have a correlation to COR. Kamui breaks this mold however because their super soft has a high COR which is normally only found in harder tips.
copied from another thread....
I have argued for several years now that tips should be graded by COR.
WIKI
The coefficient of restitution (COR), or bounciness[1] of an object is a fractional value representing the ratio of velocities after and before an impact. An object with a COR of 1 collides elastically, while an object with a COR < 1 collides inelastically. For a COR = 0, the object effectively "stops" at the surface with which it collides, not bouncing at all.
I even talked to Bob Jewitt about the idea and he suggested a pendulum test that could record the arm rebound in degrees to establish a grading system. Consistent high COR of the old Moori Medium was what made them great and it was a sad day when they retooled. I actually started working on a design but a few naysayers killed the project at the point where I was ready to gather materials.
When I put a Kamui Black SS on my cue I fell in love with leather all over again. It has a bounce to it that you just don't seem to get with any of the other tips on the market. I always have wondered if the Casein in milk wasn't increasing the COR of the infamous MilkDuds. I think maybe I will dust off my design and make a trip to the home depot and by the machine shop this week.
I have argued for several years now that tips should be graded by COR.
WIKI
The coefficient of restitution (COR), or bounciness[1] of an object is a fractional value representing the ratio of velocities after and before an impact. An object with a COR of 1 collides elastically, while an object with a COR < 1 collides inelastically. For a COR = 0, the object effectively "stops" at the surface with which it collides, not bouncing at all.
I even talked to Bob Jewitt about the idea and he suggested a pendulum test that could record the arm rebound in degrees to establish a grading system. Consistent high COR of the old Moori Medium was what made them great and it was a sad day when they retooled. I actually started working on a design but a few naysayers killed the project at the point where I was ready to gather materials.
When I put a Kamui Black SS on my cue I fell in love with leather all over again. It has a bounce to it that you just don't seem to get with any of the other tips on the market. I always have wondered if the Casein in milk wasn't increasing the COR of the infamous MilkDuds. I think maybe I will dust off my design and make a trip to the home depot and by the machine shop this week.
I can see how a tip affects how far the cue ball goes. I can see how it affects the 'feel' and vibration when you hit it. But I can't see how it's supposed to affect the cloth. Or vice versa. Your tip is your tip regardless of how fast the table plays. You need to adjust. If you mix a different tip into the mix, you'll need to adjust even MORE. Don't create extra work for yourself or imagine problems that aren't there, just keep hitting balls until you're used to the table.
brulez
cut master
Thank you all for your advice. I will proably still stick to my same tip. i just was hoping maybe there was some advantage to the table v.s the tip lol.... i have about 4 shafts want, so i am willing to switch the shafts and tips up a little. BUT not my main shaft lol.. Thank you again everyone for you input!