Tip maintenence

Spantiznik

Spantiznik

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just reading through the Mueller's thread and started thinking about the Maintenence of my Cue Tip. I don't have any repair/ Maintenence kits.

So, here is what I would like to know and hopefully get some insight from the group here.

My cue tip which is a pro-action tip, from what I am told, doesn't like to hold the dome shape and I would like it to be able to keep its shape, or be able to reshape.

Is there any tool that is better then the next that anyone would recommend ?

Thanks in advance.
 
just an idea

Spantiznik said:
Just reading through the Mueller's thread and started thinking about the Maintenence of my Cue Tip. I don't have any repair/ Maintenence kits.

So, here is what I would like to know and hopefully get some insight from the group here.

My cue tip which is a pro-action tip, from what I am told, doesn't like to hold the dome shape and I would like it to be able to keep its shape, or be able to reshape.

Is there any tool that is better then the next that anyone would recommend ?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

You might want to try a different tip. I personally like both the Everest or the Sniper from Tiger products. I break with my playing cue and have no problem with my tip holding it's shape. I just looked up the prices and the Sniper is 17.95 and the Everest is 14.95. they last pretty long and hold chalk well, from my experience. Hope this helps you. They don't mushroom. Good Luck
 
Spantiznik said:
Is there any tool that is better then the next that anyone would recommend ?
Click to expand...

I carry a coarse (160 grit) fingernail file ($0.20) and a 4" square of 80 grit Carborundum sand paper ($0.12).

The sand paper is for coarse corrections to the tip, the fingernail file is for touch up work. The back (smooth-paper) side of the sand paper is good for burnishing the tip or just cleaned shaft.

That said, I use a hard tip so I don't have to do this but about 1 every other month (with 3 hours per day of play.) The kind of hard tip is probably immaterial so I leave that to your experimentation and choice.
 
Randy,
I agree with our colleagues - I use 180 grit to do the final contours (then again, it's much easier and faster on a lathe). However there are plenty of popular tip tools too like the Williard nickel/dime shaper or Cue Cube that do a good job although IMO can be too abrasive. Also, I wouldn't recommend these on certain types of layered tips due to possible de-lamination. Good luck!
 
Thanks guys for the tips..

Now all I need to know why the tip is going flat. I only play about 4 hours a week, And I am not a hard shooting playing. I replace the tip once a year, Just because it gets to flat to play with. Most Bar Cue's hold the shape better then the tips that I have been getting replaced. LOL

TOO THE TOOL SHED, Cue Man !!
 
IMHO there's nothing better than the Willard Shaper(dime or nickel shape , whichever you prefer). I put mine down on the ground, hold it with my toes, hold my cue upside down with the tip on the shaper, and just give it a few twists. Holds chalk like a dream. So easy to carry in your case, and so cheap. You get a perfectly shaped tip every time. I use only laminated tips and have never had a problem.
 
Spantiznik said:
Now all I need to know why the tip is going flat. I only play about 4 hours a week, And I am not a hard shooting playing. I replace the tip once a year, Just because it gets to flat to play with. Most Bar Cue's hold the shape better then the tips that I have been getting replaced.
Click to expand...

Tips go flat because you hit hard, or hit at the same point all the time, or because the tip is too soft (or has gone soft over time, exposure to water or even skin oils).

Most bar cues use hard or even extra hard tips.

A tip that has mushroomed is impossible, so cut/sand the parts of the tip that are outside the diameter of the ferrule and then reshape the tip to whatever prefered shape you like (quarter to dime).

A tip that has gone flat is difficult to play with, so bring out the sandpaper, gently fold it over without putting a crease in the paper and stroke the tip pulling the sandpaper with your open hand supporting the paper over the edge of the tip while rotating the cue in your other hand. A nice gentle pull and a nice semi-random rotation practically guarentees a nice rounded tip. Vary the angle of the sandpaper relative to the cue to alter where on the tip the sandpaper is working.
 
I used Williards. If your tip is flattening out, you may need a harder tip to suit your shooting style, or hit softer.
 
You said you don't hit hard and it still gets flat. I've never heard of the brand you mentioned but I suspect it is the problem. I would replace it. I suggest a Triangle. They are cheap, hold there shape and last forever. I used to use various sanding gadgets to rough my tip but finally realized I was using it up by doing so. Once I have the shape I want I only use a tip pick. And only around the edge. Never in the center. Thats how you mushroom a tip, by softening the center. I've had my tip on going on 2 yrs. and I play alot. Experiment, you will find one you like.
 
I agree with the recommendations you've gotten for tips. In a solid tip, you can't beat a Triangle. If you opt for a layered tip, I don't know of a better tip than the Sniper.

The Triangle will require a bit more maintenence (shaping), but once you've reshaped it two or three times, it will hold its shape really well and give you excellent performance.

The Sniper is a like a miracle tip to me. It feels and plays like a soft tip, but holds shape like a hard tip and it has a really nice hit and sound. After the first week of play, I reshaped it. Since then, maybe twice a year, I recrown the curvature. That's it. I've had my current one for 2 years and I don't see any likelihood I'll have to replace it for at least another two years. It might last a decade! Keep in mind, most tips get worn out because of excessive shaping and picking. I do little else besides chalk it once I've shaped it.

As for the best thing for tip shaping, I like emery cloth because it holds the abrasive better and the cloth back is more durable than paper. I use one of those curved plastic holders available at any billiard supply store to hold the emery cloth.
 
ArizonaPete said:
IMHO there's nothing better ...

I put mine down on the ground, hold it with my toes, hold my cue upside down with the tip on the shaper, and just give it a few twists...
Click to expand...

People here have made fun of the upside-down users!

I turn that blitch over too...you don't have to push down, easy to keep tool centered. Makes sense to me!
 
Black-Balled said:
People here have made fun of the upside-down users!

I turn that blitch over too...you don't have to push down, easy to keep tool centered. Makes sense to me!
Click to expand...

By the way do the shaft only, not from the butt attached with the Willard's.

1. you can seperate the linen wrap if you are spinning from it.

2. you can put pressure on the joint pin.
 
ArizonaPete said:
IMHO there's nothing better than the Willard Shaper(dime or nickel shape , whichever you prefer). I put mine down on the ground, hold it with my toes, hold my cue upside down with the tip on the shaper, and just give it a few twists. Holds chalk like a dream. So easy to carry in your case, and so cheap. You get a perfectly shaped tip every time. I use only laminated tips and have never had a problem.
Click to expand...



Thats exactly how I use it. I agree with everything you said except the part about a laminated tip. If you create too much friction the glue gets soft and a layer will come off the top. This happened to me and as a result I shape it slower and haven't had any problems since.
 
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