Tips on Polishing/Waxing your Cue.

cue maintance

franko said:
Thanks , I 'll give it a try.
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You really didnt say what part of the cue you are wanting to clean or maintain.

I havent seen anyone steering you wrong with suggestions and advise.
Measureman advise seems pretty solid.

For shaft maintance once again there is more than one way to clean a shaft.

But it is important to know that when you clean a shaft your are not making the shaft ferrule smaller.
Any time you use anything like sand paper on your shaft it will get smaller.

I clean my shafts with denature alcohol, dish soap, magic earaser, polishing creams.

Grit, chalk , dirt in the wood grain is what I dont want .
I personaly feel that if you maintain your shaft properly,
that you will never have to clean the dirt and chalk out off the wood grain never again.

Seal the shaft with min of 4 coats of denatured alcohol and shellac 50/50 mix. Only need about 1 ounce mixed up
The shellac will dry with in seconds. Shellac is also very healthy for the wood.
Shellac is $hit from the indian lac bug.

Then I use yellow gold carnuaba car wax, advailible at alot of parts stores
I wax over the shallac sealer.

Now that you have a shaft that is cleaned ,sealed and waxed.
Know that the oils and acids on your hands will desolve the wax and shellac over time. It is best to clean and reseal as often as you can.
If you do this your shaft will not get chalk in the wood grain because the wax and sealer have stopped it. < Now you donot have to use sand paper or hash chemicals to clean your shaft .

Denatured alcohol will clean the sealer and wax off the shaft in seconds, and you are ready to reseal and rewax.

Hopes this helps.

MMike
 
So lets say you have a wrap on your cue.

When you clean the butt portion can you just wax over everything? Forgive me if that is a stupid question...
 
zpele said:
So lets say you have a wrap on your cue.

When you clean the butt portion can you just wax over everything? Forgive me if that is a stupid question...
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if you have to clean the Butt try to stay clear of the wrap you don't want to ruin the leather or Wrap
 
Do not put a silicon "race" glaze on your cue. Carnuba wax is always a safe choice and then burnish it.
 
lfigueroa said:
I'm intrigued. So what kind of finish does it leave on your shaft?

Lou Figueroa
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It's basically an oil finish, not like a finish in the conventional sense but more of a wood treatment or sealer.

It penetrates the surface somewhat and adds some moisture protection while leaving a slick feeling behind. But it will wear off and require subsequent application.
 
burn marks

My cue has two burn marks from going across the rail cloth in the finish. Will that method of using a minor abrasive polish work to remove them or should I try something else.
 
The very best cue wax i ever used

Bob Runde told me back in 1985 that to care for my cue shafts, I could use any good car wax that had a carnuba wax base or any furniture wax like that. It had to be either a hard wax or paste to be used, not a liquid.

I did that for about ten years and then started experimenting with different cue waxes. The best car wax I used was Classic Car Wax. The best cue wax........drum roll please...........is......is......but wait let me tell you more.

I tried Tiger Cue wax, Sharpshooter, Magic Erase Spray, Q Wax etc. Classic Car Wax was better than all of the aforementioned and one can could last 5-10 years. Heck, it would dry out before you'd use it all up.

Oh yeah, back to the best cue wax in the world. So one day I start communicating with a nice fellow nice Simon at Craftsman Cues in Bingham, England. I saw that aside from being a huge billiards supplier to England, Central Europe and world-wide, their firm also made its own cue wax.

So the stuff is a little pricey, especially since the shipping costs more than the minimum size order. The wax looks like a shoe polish and the can it comes in is about the same size. The wax is a dark brown color but doesn't discolor the shaft in any way whatsoever. You apply it with a rag and let it dry to a haze and rub it briskly with a soft, dry cloth/towel. I let my applications dry several hours and often overnite.

I try to give every cue shaft at least 3-4 coats and let me tell you the shafts come out like glass. NO stickiness whatsoever and the cue shaft glides through your fingers or so it seems if you shoot with a closed bridge as I do. I also make sure all my shafts remain free of any dings. scuffs, nicks, scrapes etc. As soon as any flaw develops which can happen, I steam treat the shaft and super sand it using grit ranging from 1000 20 2000 grit. Barely any wood reduction happens at that fine of a grit. Keep in mind that 2000 grit is what's used as the final buffing of auto body repairs just prior to being painted. So you know it's meant to leave the surface perfectly smooth.

Where Can You Get This Great Cue Wax? Great question.....go the Craftsman Cues website or try e-Bay where it's sold in a lot of three cans. If you ever speak with Simon, tell him Matt from Fresno, CA sent you his way. I've told everyone I know that this cue wax is a grand slam. You cannot go wrong using this product. I have a 100% satisfaction referral rate. Everyone that I recommended to try this product raves about it. So the best cue wax in the world is..........

CRAFTSMAN CUE WAX................BINGHAM, ENGLAND.
 
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Thought

mortuarymike-nv said:
You really didnt say what part of the cue you are wanting to clean or maintain.

I havent seen anyone steering you wrong with suggestions and advise.
Measureman advise seems pretty solid.

For shaft maintance once again there is more than one way to clean a shaft.

But it is important to know that when you clean a shaft your are not making the shaft ferrule smaller.
Any time you use anything like sand paper on your shaft it will get smaller.

I clean my shafts with denature alcohol, dish soap, magic earaser, polishing creams



Grit, chalk , dirt in the wood grain is what I dont want .
I personaly feel that if you maintain your shaft properly,
that you will never have to clean the dirt and chalk out off the wood grain never again.

Seal the shaft with min of 4 coats of denatured alcohol and shellac 50/50 mix. Only need about 1 ounce mixed up
The shellac will dry with in seconds. Shellac is also very healthy for the wood.
Shellac is $hit from the indian lac bug.

Then I use yellow gold carnuaba car wax, advailible at alot of parts stores
I wax over the shallac sealer.

Now that you have a shaft that is cleaned ,sealed and waxed.
Know that the oils and acids on your hands will desolve the wax and shellac over time. It is best to clean and reseal as often as you can.
If you do this your shaft will not get chalk in the wood grain because the wax and sealer have stopped it. < Now you donot have to use sand paper or hash chemicals to clean your shaft .

Denatured alcohol will clean the sealer and wax off the shaft in seconds, and you are ready to reseal and rewax.

Hopes this helps.

MMike
Click to expand...

I was under the assumption the Guitar honey was for the shafts.For the butt of the cue I have been using Renaissance a micro- crystalline wax polish. I started using this years ago to clean my rail tops on my Diamond table which were cherry wood.This product is used by the British Museum on furniture that is centuries old.It can be purchased in most wood craft shops.It worked so well on my table I started using it on the butt of my cues.I did try it on a shaft and really did not do what I wanted.I am hoping the Guitar honey will act as a sealant after the shaft is cleaned.One more note I now have rails that are the Dymond wood rails,I tried the Renaissance wax on them and was not happy with the results ,it almost made them cloudy looking.
 
franko said:
I was under the assumption the Guitar honey was for the shafts.For the butt of the cue I have been using Renaissance a micro- crystalline wax polish. I started using this years ago to clean my rail tops on my Diamond table which were cherry wood.This product is used by the British Museum on furniture that is centuries old.It can be purchased in most wood craft shops.It worked so well on my table I started using it on the butt of my cues.I did try it on a shaft and really did not do what I wanted.I am hoping the Guitar honey will act as a sealant after the shaft is cleaned.One more note I now have rails that are the Dymond wood rails,I tried the Renaissance wax on them and was not happy with the results ,it almost made them cloudy looking.
Click to expand...

I havent tried Guitar honey, I cannot give a opinion,
I just know what works for me.
I am not sure I would bypass the shaft sealer

Best of luck in your search for cue care products.

MMike
 
for the butt, i use 3M Paint Protector paste, comes in sachets. then i use carnauba.
for shafts, isopropyl alcohol to clean, then carnauba to seal.
 
I like Cue Wax. Muellers. Or any auto paste wax. Don't use on the part of the shaft where you stroke. Don't use anything there. It just gets sticky.
 
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