Titlist questions

let's both of you two chill out...

Slim was asking dave a question based on what dave posted previously, which was


when taken in context of what dave had said, slim's question makes perfect sense!

Brian

to all,

sorry to be involved in the hijacking of a thread.

I am just trying to ask a couple of questions related to the opinions given to the original posters question.

I am not trying to argue with there opinions, maybe i read to much into there answers.

Slim
 
slim i understand your question you were speaking hypothetically as to say if someone was not a cuemaker and didnt know these things and wanted to know...you made it a little confusing by speaking it directly at him...maybe a better way to say it would be...dave sutton, if someone was not a cuemaker and wanted a ballpark figure. or something like that...its sad to see that the english script is becoming somewhat of a lost knowledge for most...<lol says the guy too lazy to use proper punctuation!
 
Thanks for the post guys. I am not trying to get someone to quote me to hold a cue maker to. just looking for info that all. for instance, I know I can get it converted for around $500 bucks. he is a good cue maker, probably be all that I need. BUT I also know that some cue makers can make titlist sing, but what range are the better makers prices at? $1500?? if it’s worth it I don’t have a problem spending $2500 on it. but I don’t want to send it to a big name cue maker just because. I rather send it to someone that knows titlists, and if down the road I need to part ways, I can get most of my return back. that all. BUT the most important thing is the play of the cue. that really what im looking for.

for example Richard black. his cues are worth money, no doubt. I have played with several, and I didn’t like his cues. I prefer my Jerry Oliver, Jim buss, or even my one of my jacobys. that doesn’t mean I won’t ever own one, just wouldn’t shoot with it.


the other thing I was asking for was some ideas. I think I prefer a wrap less style. I for sure want ivory hoppy and joint.


thanks again to all who have posted. and thanks to dave for his help also.
 
If I was going to do it, I would find a cuemaker, or makers, that make a quality shaft and taper that I liked, and start there.
 
Titlist

stickbender,

wraplest cues are beautiful, no doubt.

When i had my conversion done i decided to go with a smooth leather wrap & i am glad that i did, because when the cut was made for the wrap a small blemish in the wood was exposed. I also chose ivory joint & ferrule & hoppe butt cap, with ivory dots on the butt & in the points.

Some things to keep in mind:
Have a good idea of what you want done.
I had a detailed drawing of the cue i wanted done.
Don't worry if the points are not exactly the same length.
Remember, they were cheap house cues back in their day.
Be open to sugestions from the maker who is doing your conversion, but keep in mind it's your cue.

Good luck,

slim
 
Thanks for the post guys. I am not trying to get someone to quote me to hold a cue maker to. just looking for info that all. for instance, I know I can get it converted for around $500 bucks. he is a good cue maker, probably be all that I need. BUT I also know that some cue makers can make titlist sing, but what range are the better makers prices at? $1500?? if it’s worth it I don’t have a problem spending $2500 on it. but I don’t want to send it to a big name cue maker just because. I rather send it to someone that knows titlists, and if down the road I need to part ways, I can get most of my return back. that all. BUT the most important thing is the play of the cue. that really what im looking for.

for example Richard black. his cues are worth money, no doubt. I have played with several, and I didn’t like his cues. I prefer my Jerry Oliver, Jim buss, or even my one of my jacobys. that doesn’t mean I won’t ever own one, just wouldn’t shoot with it.


the other thing I was asking for was some ideas. I think I prefer a wrap less style. I for sure want ivory hoppy and joint.


thanks again to all who have posted. and thanks to dave for his help also.


I love the hit of my Jim Buss cue. I've seen one of Jim's Titlist Conversions it looked great. I am confident that he could do a good job for you.
 
I have my first titlist one piece cue. I have a few questions that I hope some of you guys who have and had converted before.

What can I expect to pay to have the cue converted? I am thinking wrapless, ivory joint, ivory, hoppy ring, 2 shafts. I know it will be different with who does the work, but I am looking for price ranges of what to expect.

Also looking for some idea on above. I like the simple, smooth look, but want it be a nice titlist. Not to old school, (like palmer style)

who would you recommend to do the conversion for me? With price, resale, and playability all inconsideration.



First Off, let me say I'm not soliciting the job, just giving you some advise from someone who's done many Titlist conversions. There are several different types of Titlists. Some just aren't well suited to make an unwrapped

conversion. The main difference from a cuemakers perspective is the thickness of the cue. You need to measure up from the bottom of the cue, 29" and get the diameter where the joint will be. A lot of them are under .800".

These are no good for what you described. If it's over .830", preferably .845-.855" then you're OK. If it's the thinner vareity, your best option is to have it made into a wrapped cue with a maple handle under the wrap. By doing

this, you can move the points up closer to the joint, which IMHO looks better anyway, and have enough wood at the joint to make the cue playable. You can use the piece you cut off to match the points, for the butt sleeve.

Some cuemakers will make the cue, like you want without even checking the size but you won't be happy in the end. Good luck! And I might also add I recently saw a cue done for a buddy of mine, just like I described here by

Pat Diviney. It turned out very nice, and you can't go wrong with Dick Neighbors, of RHN cues in this forum all the time.



Sherm
 
I don't understand what the question is. Yes I am a cuemaker. Yes I gave the price "I" charge to convert. My statement was for a "non cuemaker" to quote a price is just ignorant. Which has happened in this thread Thats pretty cut and dry. So my advice was to contact cuemakers directly and ask them directly. Every cue and every conversion is different. I've even turned away jobs bc the blank was in too bad condition. So as I also said some makers might want to see the blank before the quote.
 
Conversion

some people prefer a full spliced cue. Others prefer a short splice. Some people like the entire point above the wrap. Others prefer the bottom of the points under the wrap. Take a look at as many titlists on the internet as you can. You may change your mind several times before you have your conversion done. Also knock some balls around with different grip materials if you decide against a wrapless. If your blank is not sutible for conversion because it is not a large enough diameter don't worry, you'll find another one. They come up for sale once in a while here on azb.

Slim
 
I don't understand what the question is. Yes I am a cuemaker. Yes I gave the price "I" charge to convert. My statement was for a "non cuemaker" to quote a price is just ignorant. Which has happened in this thread Thats pretty cut and dry. So my advice was to contact cuemakers directly and ask them directly. Every cue and every conversion is different. I've even turned away jobs bc the blank was in too bad condition. So as I also said some makers might want to see the blank before the quote.

Dave, I hope you didn't misunderstand my comments. Frankly I didn't read the whole thread before I posted and certainly didn't point my comments at anything you said. I was just giving advise based on my experiences. No offense intended!

Sherm
 
Quoting

dave sutton,

i didn't look at any of the posts previous to yours as quotes.

I just looked at them as guys who have looked into having a conversin done sharing what they had found out.

The original poster along with another poster specifically stated he was not expecting a quote.

If you looked at the information as an unqualified quote, i undersand your reaction.

We just interpreted things differently.

Slim
 
dave sutton,

i didn't look at any of the posts previous to yours as quotes.

I just looked at them as guys who have looked into having a conversin done sharing what they had found out.

The original poster along with another poster specifically stated he was not expecting a quote.

If you looked at the information as an unqualified quote, i undersand your reaction.

We just interpreted things differently.

Slim

I still do not have a clue as to what you are talking about. Maybe you should read the ENTIRE post before posting yourself and try wording it a little better next time.
 
Titlist

First Off, let me say I'm not soliciting the job, just giving you some advise from someone who's done many Titlist conversions. There are several different types of Titlists. Some just aren't well suited to make an unwrapped conversion. The main difference from a cuemakers perspective is the thickness of the cue. You need to measure up from the bottom of the cue, 29" and get the diameter where the joint will be. A lot of them are under .800".

These are no good for what you described. If it's over .830", preferably .845-.855" then you're OK. If it's the thinner vareity, your best option is to have it made into a wrapped cue with a maple handle under the wrap. By doing this, you can move the points up closer to the joint, which IMHO looks better anyway, and have enough wood at the joint to make the cue playable. You can use the piece you cut off to match the points, for the butt sleeve.

Some cuemakers will make the cue, like you want without even checking the size but you won't be happy in the end. Good luck! And I might also add I recently saw a cue done for a buddy of mine, just like I described here by Pat Diviney. It turned out very nice, and you can't go wrong with Dick Neighbors, of RHN cues in this forum all the time.

Sherm

Well said.., very informative.., thank you Sherm!
 
i still do not have a clue as to what you are talking about. Maybe you should read the entire post before posting yourself and try wording it a little better next time.

dave,

i have read the entire thread.

Why did you write that someone was being ignorant?

Please tell me who, that was not a cue maker, quoted any specific price to the original poster?

Thanks,

slim
 
dave,

i have read the entire thread.

Why did you write that someone was being ignorant?

Please tell me who, that was not a cue maker, quoted any specific price to the original poster?

Thanks,

slim

Slim. Read the thread again. Then go to a dictionary and look up the definition of ignorant. Then read my statement again. If you don't get it by then, just give up.

So let me make it easier for you then you can do your homework. For a non cue maker to post a number or what a cue would cost is IS ignorant. It happened 2 times before me I don't care how many cues you buy week/month/year ect. Every cue, every component, everything is different to every cue maker. Hence the second part of my post which said talk to cuemakers directly for an accurate quote.

Even easier for you don't ask non cuemakers cuemaker questions.

I don't know what's so hard to understand. Sorry to the OP. I have very short fuse for small minded people today.
 
Slim, heres how it goes.
This is the OPS first statement.

I have my first titlist one piece cue. I have a few questions that I hope some of you guys who have and had converted before.
What can I expect to pay to have the cue converted?

Its pretty obvious that he asked for a price quote. Other posters who are not cue makers, but have had Titlist cues converted for themselves gave the OP an idea of what their Titlist conversions cost them depending on who did the conversion and how it was converted. Thats fair enuff, right?

Dave Sutton, who is a cue maker then posted this:

Seems like I'm the first cuemaker to post so here it goes.

Then, Dave told the op what he charges for a conversion.
Pretty easy to understand so far if anyone had actually been reading all the posts.

Directly after Dave posted his quote to the op, you posted this:

Dave sutton.
If you are not a cue maker you should not give a guy an idea of how much something is going to cost him if he is interested in having a conversion done???


Then, you posted this:

The original poster along with another poster specifically stated he was not expecting a quote.

Really? See post number 1.

Pretty easy to see who was actually reading the posts and who was not, right Slim.

This is exactly why, if someone is asking for a price quote, its much easier to ask in the proper forum, as in Ask The Cue Maker Forum.

That way, actual cue makers can give the op a quote without others starting arguments over trivial things such as you said, he said, I said.
Get the idea? Not to be rude or anything Slim but seriously, Read Posts. Put Mouth in Gear.

Go stroke the furry wall, things will get better.
 
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Maybe i have misunderstood some of the opinions expressed here.
I am not not trying to start an argument or pi$$ anyone off but i don't get it.

Dave sutton.
If you are not a cue maker you should not give a guy an idea of how much something is going to cost him if he is interested in having a conversion done??? He wanted a ball park figure. If you have had a conversion done or have explored having one done, you probably have an idea (ball park) of how much one will be.

Ken 4fun .
If you cant afford to have it done by one of a few cue makers dont bother having it done??? There would not be many custom cues owners if every one lived by those standards.

Is that really what you meant?

Slim (tracy porter)

Slim, you said it well. You owe no one an explanation or apology for what you posted. No matter how some things are expressed, some posters will just never get it. They are always looking for something to wolf about... and they jumped the gun on this one. IMO.
 
I have my first titlist one piece cue. I have a few questions that I hope some of you guys who have and had converted before.

What can I expect to pay to have the cue converted? I am thinking wrapless, ivory joint, ivory, hoppy ring, 2 shafts. I know it will be different with who does the work, but I am looking for price ranges of what to expect.

Also looking for some idea on above. I like the simple, smooth look, but want it be a nice titlist. Not to old school, (like palmer style)

who would you recommend to do the conversion for me? With price, resale, and playability all inconsideration.

Since you already have experience with Jerry Olivier and live so close to him, I'd use him. He has a lot of experience with Titlist conversions... and the ones I saw were beautiful. Plus, he makes some of the best shafts out there, and his finish is flawless.
 
Slim, you said it well. You owe no one an explanation or apology for what you posted. No matter how some things are expressed, some posters will just never get it. They are always looking for something to wolf about... and they jumped the gun on this one. IMO.

I'm one of those people :) Dave is waaaay too literal and it seems his ego got in the way of simply saying, "oh hey! I'm a cuemaker and my opinion is the only one that matters. Sorry I'm being rediculous here... but thats how Dave Sutton rolls!" WTF?! Seriously, if I ask a question that could be generally answered by cue consumers and cue builders alike, people like Dave make me want to specifically say, "cuemakers please do not chime in, as your overbearing and egotistical attitudes are not wanted." Sweet jebus! When these guys realize that they aren't rocket scientists and god's gift to the pool world they may actually sell some cues. Until then, the more I read from some of these guys, the more I resist even looking in thier direction... Keep on keepin' on slim...
 
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