tool for cutting rings

brianna187

brianna187

BRIANNA SINCE 1988
Silver Member
We at Brianna have a new tool for cutting ringwork. this can cut wooden rings as small as 10ths comes with blade ,arbor ,cuter ,and fixture, to hold to your tool post .ready to cut when you you get it .designed to fit a porper lathe but with some smiple adustments can fit most any tool post
on any lathe will be under 200.00 shiped. we are two weeks out now from finishing up 25 units.we will have at our booth at derbycity this we have 4 booth spaces and hundreds of items for sale stop buy and see us we have some assorted butt selves for sale also inculing some pictureshmalakoff@chartermi.net

25 are almost done 200.00 plus 10.00 shipping forr the first 6 only the rest are for the derby city classic
 

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Mr. Malakoff,

Just for clarification, are you selling rings, or actually selling the tool to cut rings?

Thanks.
 
we will be selling the the tool it goes on your tool post of your lathe design for a porper model B but you can adapt for any lathe with little or no trouble also if you need some rings we can also do that or make you some ring stock to cut yourself thanks Lee
 
Ring cutter

Joey- Exactly what machine is your photo of? I like it! I have a tough time cutting off rings as cleanly as I would like to. Also, that thin a kirf will get extra milage out of ring stock. Sounds good!
 
JoeyInCali said:
... with jeweler's saw.
Click to expand...

Hey Joey, what kind of mileage do you get with a jewelers saw ? Do they stay reasonably sharp for a while or do they dull quickly ? Also, what width of blade are you using ? I've often wondered how well they work on wood, especially the fairly thin ones.

Dave
 
JoeyInCali said:
Like this?
Click to expand...

I've been doing it that way for about 15 years now. I have a small Atlas lathe dedicated for this operation with a Sears router mounted on the cross slide. I use a .025ths. 2.5 or 3" jewelers blade. It actually is turning to quickly and I have been considering mounting a spindle that I can slow down some. I tried a variable speed doo hinky but it caused to much of a power loss. I cut somewhere between 300 and 500 rings before changing blades but I probably should do it more often. Don't stand in front of that blade when in use as I have had more than one shatter and go flying.

I cut maple rings thinner than veneer and can cut a 1000 of them and know they will all be within a .001 of each other in thickness. Glued up tubes of rings can be cut as thin as .030ths. and not break up as would happen with a parting tool. On the Atlas it takes 10 turns of the handle to move the carriage 1 inch. I have sample cuts of 3/4 of a turn, 1 turn, 1.5 turns, 2 turns and so on up to 10 turns on pegs and when I need to make a deco ring for a another cue makers shaft I merely match up one of my samples to the rings on the original shaft so that I know how far to crank in the cutter to get an identical width ring. Saves very much time as it only takes a couple of seconds to throw in a tube of deco rings and cut off the size needed.

Dick
 
ragbug74 said:
Anyone have any idea if these saws I found on eBay would work for such an application:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-1-1-4-German-...528QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160056745885
Click to expand...





I have with a dremel. have both those blades, but I don't care for using them for cutting rings. The mandrels are too thin & not ridgid enough IMO, and develop runout really easy. Not to mention they seem dangerous. Notice how thick the mandrel is in the pic that Joey put up.

I just use a 1/16 end mill with a dremel mounted to My cross slide at this time, and they do a good job, altough they may waste alittle more material.
The nice thing about the foredom is You can get handpieces with a 1/4 collet, so eventually I'll probably got to one of those.:)

Greg
 
I cut maple rings thinner than veneer and can cut a 1000 of them and know they will all be within a .001 of each other in thickness.

Damn!
I am going to guess you have a stop on the chucked-up rod/ billet and leave the crosslide alone.
I use a smoth finish saw 1/32nd thick. I don't dare go thinner than that.:eek:

3044A63
Smooth-Finish Hss Slitting Cutter 2" Cutter Dia, .032" Thk, 1/2" Hole Dia, 110 Teeth
In stock at $6.93 Each
 
I missed that somehow, no kidding .001 is some seriously thin skin, unless I'm reading My calibers wrong, which I may be. I can get them thin, but I just popped a grey hair out of My beard and mic-ed It, I'm getting 3 times that thickneess from It:confused:.

I use a stop that butts up against the billet, then I lock the cross slide down, and just use something thin as a filler gauge so the stop does'nt rub while I'm cutting. How consistent the thickness, depends on what I use as a filler, If I use something like cardboard, then It's not quite as consistent as something alittle more ridgid would be, but still fairly close.

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
I missed that somehow, no kidding .001 is some seriously thin skin, unless I'm reading My calibers wrong, which I may be. I can get them thin, but I just popped a grey hair out of My beard and mic-ed It, I'm getting 3 times that thickneess from It:confused:.

I use a stop that butts up against the billet, then I lock the cross slide down, and just use something thin as a filler gauge so the stop does'nt rub while I'm cutting. How consistent the thickness, depends on what I use as a filler, If I use something like cardboard, then It's not quite as consistent as something alittle more ridgid would be, but still fairly close.

Greg
Click to expand...

No, you misunderstand. I can't cut them .001 thick but what I meant was that all that I cut are exactly the same thickness within a .001 or so. If I need six differant pieces to make up a deco-ring then they can be cut to exactly the right thickness to each other. I use a lot of thin washers of maple and phenelic in combinations to make up different rings and they are all very consistant in width. I cut the maple ones around .020ths or so and will cut about a 100 at a time and just grab them off a peg as needed.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
No, you misunderstand. I can't cut them .001 thick but what I meant was that all that I cut are exactly the same thickness within a .001 or so. If I need six differant pieces to make up a deco-ring then they can be cut to exactly the right thickness to each other. I use a lot of thin washers of maple and phenelic in combinations to make up different rings and they are all very consistant in width. I cut the maple ones around .020ths or so and will cut about a 100 at a time and just grab them off a peg as needed.

Dick
Click to expand...



Oh I see, MY bad:o I must admitt though, You would be da man If you could cut them that thin;) :D I'm with you now. The chain link I posted pics of along time ago is like that also, if they are'nt really tight in thickness to each other, you can see it in the cue very easily. In some cases I make them thicker so I can face them to size. I just did that in a handle joint to keep It rolling true.

Greg
 
Not sure if i'm helping anyone out or not. We buy probably 90% of our tooling from McMaster Carr...http://www.mcmaster.com/...They have a lot of smaller size saw blades. Probably under "slitting saws" in their book. They also have just about anything else you could need. We can order something late in the afternoon and get it the next afternoon from them with standard shipping.

If you dont know about them i hope this helps.

I'm just trying to help some of you guys out.

John
 
kydartmaster said:
Not sure if i'm helping anyone out or not. We buy probably 90% of our tooling from McMaster Carr...http://www.mcmaster.com/...They have a lot of smaller size saw blades. Probably under "slitting saws" in their book. They also have just about anything else you could need. We can order something late in the afternoon and get it the next afternoon from them with standard shipping.

If you dont know about them i hope this helps.

I'm just trying to help some of you guys out.

John
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info here is the correct link http://www.mcmaster.com/
 
kydartmaster said:
Not sure if i'm helping anyone out or not. We buy probably 90% of our tooling from McMaster Carr...http://www.mcmaster.com/...They have a lot of smaller size saw blades. Probably under "slitting saws" in their book. They also have just about anything else you could need. We can order something late in the afternoon and get it the next afternoon from them with standard shipping.

If you dont know about them i hope this helps.

I'm just trying to help some of you guys out.

John
Click to expand...

Slitting saws are too thick, what you want is a Jewler's saw,
same thing only thinner

Dale
 
Wow!!! I did look them up in McMaster Carr under "slitting saws" and the thinnest they had was 0.006. I would hate to use anything thinner. Of course i work with mostly aluminum and have used 0.010 and didn't have any trouble just had to take my time. Let me know how thin the jewelers saws are.

thanks

John
 
pdcue said:
Slitting saws are too thick, what you want is a Jewler's saw,
same thing only thinner

Dale
Click to expand...

I have always considered "slitting saw" and "jewelers saw" to be synonymous.

Dave
 
DaveK said:
I have always considered "slitting saw" and "jewelers saw" to be synonymous.

Dave
Click to expand...

Most tool suppliers have slitting and jewellers saws under different categories. Slitting blades are made to cut deeper, are usually much stouter and have less cutting teeth.

Dick
 
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