Tools for cutting slate?

R

roadking522

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I have a mid-1950's 8', 3 pc. Brunswick with the deep throated pockets. In the late 50's, in order to attract more pool players (I understand) they made the decision to make pocketing balls easier by making the pocket throats more shallow. What I am wondering, is, how would one go about shaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch off of the actual slate in order to bring this table up to today's standards? I'm thinking a router with a stone cutting bit. Any other suggestions?
 
I'm not a mechanic here, but be very careful putting bits in a router that weren't specifically designed for routers. The 20K to 25K RPM of a typical router is way too fast for many other woodworking tools that are designed for drill presses, and similar tools that operate in the 1K to 2K RPM range. You risk ruining the router, and also the tool disintegrating and flying apart, injuring yourself.

I know this because I put a sanding drum designed for a drill press in my Porter Cable router table many years ago :frown: Router was toast after 2 seconds. Thankfully, I turned it off in time for the drum not to come flying at me.
 
iusedtoberich said:
I'm not a mechanic here, but be very careful putting bits in a router that weren't specifically designed for routers. The 20K to 25K RPM of a typical router is way too fast for many other woodworking tools that are designed for drill presses, and similar tools that operate in the 1K to 2K RPM range. You risk ruining the router, and also the tool disintegrating and flying apart, injuring yourself.

I know this because I put a sanding drum designed for a drill press in my Porter Cable router table many years ago :frown: Router was toast after 2 seconds. Thankfully, I turned it off in time for the drum not to come flying at me.
Click to expand...

I think you would get more answers and advice to your question if you post it in the talk to a Mechanic section, There are many table mechanics there.
 
Consult a professional

roadking522 said:
I have a mid-1950's 8', 3 pc. Brunswick with the deep throated pockets. In the late 50's, in order to attract more pool players (I understand) they made the decision to make pocketing balls easier by making the pocket throats more shallow. What I am wondering, is, how would one go about shaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch off of the actual slate in order to bring this table up to today's standards? I'm thinking a router with a stone cutting bit. Any other suggestions?
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Talk to a qualified mechanic. They might convince you that it is not necessary to take such drastic measures.
 
You can draw a pattern and notch or tooth the slate to cut arcs with a grinder. Wetting the surface keeps the dust down. It has a tendency to chip, so speed kills. Any imperfections can be repaired with body filler and sanding.

That being said, playing on deeper shelves makes for a better practice table, IMO.

Best,
Mike
 
If you're looking to make it easier to pocket balls, check with a table mechanic. Maybe he could reface the rails. If your table is uncommon, any irreversible alteration could make it less desirable.
 
roadking522 said:
I have a mid-1950's 8', 3 pc. Brunswick with the deep throated pockets. In the late 50's, in order to attract more pool players (I understand) they made the decision to make pocketing balls easier by making the pocket throats more shallow. What I am wondering, is, how would one go about shaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch off of the actual slate in order to bring this table up to today's standards? I'm thinking a router with a stone cutting bit. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

What model table is it, and it's more than likely Brunstone instead of slate;) And if you could, post a picture of the slate shelf you're talking about.
 
roadking522 said:
I have a mid-1950's 8', 3 pc. Brunswick with the deep throated pockets. In the late 50's, in order to attract more pool players (I understand) they made the decision to make pocketing balls easier by making the pocket throats more shallow. What I am wondering, is, how would one go about shaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch off of the actual slate in order to bring this table up to today's standards? I'm thinking a router with a stone cutting bit. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

A masonary bit in a hand drill.

Draw an arc - drill some holes close together - fine file and a grinding
stone thingy in the hand drill. Lots of patience.

I did something similar a few decdes ago. I was far from mechanically
gifted at the time.

Dale
 
Just finished 1.

pdcue said:
A masonary bit in a hand drill.

Draw an arc - drill some holes close together - fine file and a grinding
stone thingy in the hand drill. Lots of patience.

I did something similar a few decdes ago. I was far from mechanically
gifted at the time.

Dale
Click to expand...

My partner and I have been purchasing some antique tables. 2 of them are tables that were originally billiard tables. They were then turned into snooker tables. I didn't realize that the slate were butchered in all of the cutout areas. I contacted Mark Gregory. He gave me correct measurements. We did ours using a hand held grinder with a diamond blade. Then we finished them with a belt sander. I can't believe how nice they came out. Both were 3 piece. 5 by 10's.
 
Table

I would not go the route of cutting the slate shelf, I suggest changing the pocket opening angles.

Best of luck.

Rob.M
 
Thanks everyone! All good advice. It does, indeed make for a great practice table as it allows no 'slop' whatsoever. Only problem is, nobody (besides myself) likes playing on it. They are all used to Bar Boxes where, if you're close, it drops in. Still, the table needs to brought up to todays standards. On my corner pockets, if I draw a straight line between tits, there is a full 2" before the ball drops. Check your tables. I'll need to research it further but I'm betting you will find your drop is less then 1" back from that point. This makes for extremely demanding and accurate shooting.
 
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