The one thing every cue maker needs is good wood. You should buy all you can afford and just store it, shafts in particular, then handles next. You should also rough out the handles and cut your tenons then let them age.
Turning schedule on a forearm/handle/butt?
- Thread starter JaktUpCues
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Paul, you are not suppost to tell them about the tenons on the handles.
Just kidding, I turn all my handle stock out of purpleheart now as maple I have had to splice after the cue was built to straighten. I believe the maple used now is a faster growth maple and not as good as the old stuff i used to get. I make the handle and tenons about .040 oversized and let them rest for a long time.
Just kidding, I turn all my handle stock out of purpleheart now as maple I have had to splice after the cue was built to straighten. I believe the maple used now is a faster growth maple and not as good as the old stuff i used to get. I make the handle and tenons about .040 oversized and let them rest for a long time.
With a set up like that you are guaranteed problems. Your cues will warp and your lathe will rust. Insulate the garage, Cut a hole in the wall and put in a big window AC unit.
Kim
JaktUpCues
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my garage is insulated. Most down here are. I also have a window in there, just need to get an a/c unit. Like I said, I'm storing the wood inside where the temperature is ideal. I will also probably need a dehumidifier to keep in the garage as well.
JaktUpCues
Registered
My garage is insulated as most are in my area. I have a window in there that I can put a unit in. I am also going to buy a dehumidifier to keep in there.
That sounds good.....Also get a meter to measure the humidity.... Keep it 40 to 50 percent.
Kim
Very good idea to measure the relative humidity. I'd stay away from most of the electronic meter type instruments, though. They are not always very accurate unless you spend big bucks for one. Best you'll see on a consumer-grade meter is about +/-5%... not nearly close enough for fine woodworking.
I personally think every serious woodworker should have a sling psychrometer. I got mine at a used tool shop 30 years ago for next to nothing. There is never any doubt when you use wet and dry bulb thermometers to find the RH. They never need calibrating and last forever. Yeah, they take a little extra time to use (minutes instead of an instant reading), but the peace of mind you get from knowing the RH within a couple percentage points is worth it.
Here's one like I have:
http://www.professionalequipment.co...meter-red-spirit-filled-1330pj/psychrometers/
The price may seem a bit high, but a professional quality electronic meter will cost you a lot more, and it won't be any more accurate.