types of 3/8x10 pins

B

bbb

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there was a thread in the main forum about this
cueaddicts mentioned a "newer" 3/8x10 pin that has a fatter "barrell" and shorter threads compared to the older style
how popular is this new style??
i was aware of a "flat faced" 3/8x10 pin as a variant but not this
where can i go to see pics of various 3/8x10 pins??
i did a search and it wasnt productive
thanks for any info
 
Google DZcues he has a cut away pic. There are some videos too.


Jay Harper
Harper cues
 
Here is DZ's graphic......

mod%20pin.jpg
 
DoubleD said:
And it is a horrible idea that serves no good purpose.

dld
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I like to fill up any holes in a cue with anything other than glue or air. Although it looks like a better design by my previous statement, I can not say the modified pin give any better structural integrity. Looks can be deceiving.

My 2 cents,
Alan
 
Canadian cue said:
Ok I will bite... why exactly is this style of pin horrible? Making a statement with out qualifying it is not very productive in a discussion IMO
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Because there is less thread lip on the modified 3/8-10, due to how weak wood is compared to metal, the threads on the wood have a higher chance of stripping out.
 
You are more likely to strip regular 3/9 x 10 as there is a place for the wood to go as it gets cross threaded. On the Flat Pitch 3/8 x 10 there is no place for the wood to go as the flats take up all the room. I have been using them for years and have not had any one yet to cross thread or stip the threads on one of my cues. Happens a lot on regular 3/8 x 10.

You get a tighter fit with the flat pitch pin. I believe DPK was the first to use it as does South West today.
 
Brickcues said:
You are more likely to strip regular 3/8 x 10 as there is a place for the wood to go as it gets cross threaded. On the Flat Pitch 3/8 x 10 there is no place for the wood to go as the flats take up all the room. I have been using them for years and have not had any one yet to cross thread or stip the threads on one of my cues. Happens a lot on regular 3/8 x 10.

You get a tighter fit with the flat pitch pin. I believe DPK was the first to use it as does South West today.
Click to expand...
tap tap tap AB.
Pardon the pun.
The modified one can be routed and live threaded more accurately imo too .
And I'm not arguing it.:cool:
 
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DoubleD said:
And it is a horrible idea that serves no good purpose.

dld
Click to expand...

Not sure how it could be worse? If both screws have the same engagement at the threads, how can it be any different? Also, as with any extreme pitch thread, you get the natural occurrence of "push" as its torqued down, effectively offsetting the true center "especially in wood" With the flat minor pin, it can be bored to a much tighter tolerance, thus eliminating most of the problems the oldschool pins have.
 
I have seen both styles come in for repair that were stripped out. On another note I have used the standard 3/8 on My own cues for a good while and never had one of those strip.

Stripping usually occurs when the threads are being started, and cross threaded at the start of the threads, being forced on, not after they are all the way in. If they do It after It's together, and properly aligned, then chances are the bore was too large, and that can happen with either pin. Taking extra precautions when machining can go a long way in helping to make sure that the threads start off clean when putting a cue together, and that reduces the risk of cross threading.

The biggest difference as I see it is the modified version has more surface area touching therefore makes better contact. I have not personally felt enough of a difference in two styles to say that the modified feels or plays better, although theoretically It does make sense to Me that could.
 
bbb said:
there was a thread in the main forum about this
cueaddicts mentioned a "newer" 3/8x10 pin that has a fatter "barrell" and shorter threads compared to the older style
how popular is this new style??
i was aware of a "flat faced" 3/8x10 pin as a variant but not this
where can i go to see pics of various 3/8x10 pins??
i did a search and it wasnt productive
thanks for any info
Click to expand...

i th ink those are the pins that Bryan Mordt uses. they're a flat bottom 3/8-10 pin. the way i understand it is that there's less space inside when the cue's screwed together
 
Hits 'em Hard said:
Because there is less thread lip on the modified 3/8-10, due to how weak wood is compared to metal, the threads on the wood have a higher chance of stripping out.
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To pick a nit here, the modified pin has MORE wood supporting the thread than the std pin. The modified uses a .308 bore vs. the typical .3125 bore.

The Radial pin was a godsend to many cuemakers for 2 reasons. First, the alignment barrel allowed them to install a pin in the butt & keep it on center. Every time. Second, the unique thread form removed less wood from the shaft so maintaining center when tapping the shaft became easier, too.

Problem was, it was easy to cross-thread.

The 3/8-10 modified pin's charm, to me, was the alignment barrel. It offered a conventional 60° pin that could be accurately installed. It was only after trying it that I realized the benefit of the .308 minor diameter. It provided a "second chance" for the cuemaker to keep his shafts centered on the pin. If the tap wandered - as they so often do, particularly with the 60° form - the bored minor helped keep everything right.

If done correctly, there is no more friction than any other thread and there is no "shaft wobble" as you install your shaft. It just feels right.

Of course, live tooling eliminates the drill/tap wandering issue completely but not everyone has that capability. This is an alternative that gives the cuemaker another level of confidence.
 
I believe this pin is correctly described as an ACME thread - commonly used in leadscrews. But it is different than the "regular" 3/8-10 pin and the "modified or flat-bottomed" 3/8-10.
Gary

attachment.php
 
DoubleD said:
The photo from your website shows that to not be true.dld
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Good catch. However, the photo is misleading because I always bored my shafts to .302". The majority of cuemakers bore them to .312".

(hint: you know the 3/8-10 taps that come with a pilot? The pilot is .312" diameter.)
 
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