uneven points

jayman

jayman

Hi Mom!
Silver Member
Hey guys,

I have a very cool old cue, with very uneven pionts. Its a real shame because the cue is realy cool , but they are so obviouse that it takes all the fun out of it.
Is there anyone who has had good luck re machining a cue and evening up off center pionts? I would like to fix this one if the cost is reasonable in comparison to the value of the cue.

Thanks,
Jayman.
 
jayman said:
Hey guys,

I have a very cool old cue, with very uneven pionts. Its a real shame because the cue is realy cool , but they are so obviouse that it takes all the fun out of it.
Is there anyone who has had good luck re machining a cue and evening up off center pionts? I would like to fix this one if the cost is reasonable in comparison to the value of the cue.

Thanks,
Jayman.
Click to expand...

Hello Jay, it all depends upon the size of the forearm. In most cases after a forearm has been final tapered it is normally, .850 at the joint and around 1.050 at the A-joint / begining of the wrap. If the cue is around
.845 to .900 at the joint it may be possible, however, it is a crap shoot and you may ruin the cue.

Myself, I would not even try it if it were smaller than .900 at the joint!!!

Hope this helps!!!!!
 
Rule of thumb

Is there a measure you would move the center over based upon the difference in the point lengths. If there was .200 between the longest and shortest where would you start to get close?

Thanks, Ray
 
Rybord said:
Is there a measure you would move the center over based upon the difference in the point lengths. If there was .200 between the longest and shortest where would you start to get close?

Thanks, Ray
Click to expand...

doesnt take a lot of movement. i just play with it intil they are close then hand sand them perfect if needed
 
I have just learned to eyeball it over the years, I don't have a formula for how much to offset the center to even the points. I just use a pencil mark on the low side of the points and some shim stock to offset the cue in the lathe chuck and make the new center. I have seen the offsetable drive centers used and they are slick but I generally don't have to move the points much at all on my cues and haven't felt the need to buy one.
If I was to guess at how much you would need to move the center to even out points that were .200 uneven I would guess around .008 - .010 This is just a rough guess, I have alot of .004 shim stock and I am ballparking the shift at around 2 pieces of .004 to offset the center and try to even them up. I of course would take a very small truing pass on the forearm and see how they look. That is where I would start to get close, As I said before I eyeball it the shim measurements are purely a guess. Chris.
 
manwon said:
Hello Jay, it all depends upon the size of the forearm. In most cases after a forearm has been final tapered it is normally, .850 at the joint and around 1.050 at the A-joint / begining of the wrap. If the cue is around
.845 to .900 at the joint it may be possible, however, it is a crap shoot and you may ruin the cue.

Myself, I would not even try it if it were smaller than .900 at the joint!!!

Hope this helps!!!!!
Click to expand...


Its .857 at the joint collar, and 1.045 at the a ring. the longest poit is .57 longer than the shortest.

thanks guys,

jayman.
 
Last edited:
jayman said:
Its .857 at the joint collar, and 1.045 at the a ring. the longest poit is .57 longer than the shortest.

thanks guys,

jayman.
Click to expand...

Very nice looking cue, if I were you I would just leave it alone!!!!!

Have a good day!!!
 
Last edited:
jayman said:
Its .857 at the joint collar, and 1.045 at the a ring. the longest poit is .57 longer than the shortest.

thanks guys,

jayman.
Click to expand...

Not to critisize anyone's opinion here, but, why would want to?

This cue is from the era before people obcessed over even points.

After all, you wouldn't want to de-flairify the bell bottoms
on King James' trousers in your Avatar would you?

On a more serious note, you would run some risk of wiping out
parts of the inlays in the points - and nobody wants to see that>

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Not to critisize anyone's opinion here, but, why would want to?

This cue is from the era before people obcessed over even points.

After all, you wouldn't want to de-flairify the bell bottoms
on King James' trousers in your Avatar would you?

On a more serious note, you would run some risk of wiping out
parts of the inlays in the points - and nobody wants to see that>

Dale
Click to expand...
tap tap tap
I'd leave the vintage cues alone.
 
When you try to even up points sometimes it takes a lot of material loss to even up the points and still keep the forearm round. This is best done before the cue is assembled. By reworking the cue now you might run into more problems than its worth.
 
I'm surprised at the number of people who need absolutely perfect points. Leave the cue alone. Is the benefit of evenness worth the chance of destroying something this beautiful??? Not in my mind. You only see one side of the cue anyway. Leave it alone and enjoy the craftsmanship from a time past. You've got a keeper here. If it bugs you so much I will accept it graciously.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues
 
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