Uniloc quick release joint

RDeca said:
Good for you. I'm not a cue builder. All I can say is your attitude in embarrassing. But apparently your the king of the forum and cuemakers . I'll give the work to a local guy. I dont have the tools to make cues. Or the time. I still work for a living. The correct answer from you would have been. Yea....I can make that insert....and do it. (I don't care what it costs....but your attitude is shit.) Good luck making cues. Ps. There is nothing wrong with that twin joint. Its odd and prob unnecessarybut .it's super solid and secure....gives a nice forward weight as well
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Says the dude who pretended to know how Uniloc screws are polished and was snotty on me for mentioning their finish sucks now.

That screw is dumb. It doesn't make register better or have more axial force. It was a gimmick.
If the screw is good, you only need one orientation.
If the combination doesn't weigh more than 1.4oz, it doesn't forward the balance more than a 3/8 brass.
Any cue maker worth his lathe can add weight to alter the butt's balance.
 
I'm really trying to off set you two.
It's not working.
Hahahahaha Go figure.
For the record, the combined weight of the joint screw and insert is 1.03 oz.
Good luck
 
JoeyInCali said:
Says the dude who pretended to know how Uniloc screws are polished and was snotty on me for mentioning their finish sucks now.

That screw is dumb. It doesn't make register better or have more axial force. It was a gimmick.
If the screw is good, you only need one orientation.
If the combination doesn't weigh more than 1.4oz, it doesn't forward the balance more than a 3/8 brass.
Any cue maker worth his lathe can add weight to alter the butt's balance.
Click to expand...
 
Good luck guy. It's a few straight pieces of wood held together by a screw or tenon.. not that big of a deal.
It doesn't need to be any better than that. As much as you know you should be building fighter jets.
 
RDeca said:
Good luck guy. It's a few straight pieces of wood held together by a screw or tenon.. not that big of a deal.
It doesn't need to be any better than that. As much as you know you should be building fighter jets.
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Great.
All you need is a conventional screw then.
Not some gimmicky bastard double screw.
I love it when someone disagrees with himself.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Great.
All you need is a conventional screw then.
Not some gimmicky bastard double screw.
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Smh. Never mind. Just thought it would be nice to have two shafts for this cue. Hits and plays great the way it is. If u ever see one in good shape. Try it. Plays and feels as good as anything I've played. And that's with a LePro tip
 
I had a players cue many years ago and I really liked the joint. I was getting a new gear months ago and was figuring out what i wanted to to. It was either Joss or Predator. I wanted a cue with adjustable weight and a cue extension. I've also been using predator shafts for 20 years. So predator was the way to go. I was looking at all the cues and the uniloc joint was more universal. So i'm using a predator Air Rush, BK Rush, Sneaky Pete all with Uniloc joints.

I just switched to Revo last month. It was great i tested my BK Rush shaft om my player and besides the tip being super hard i liked the feel.

But the uniloc joint is super precise, incredible tolerances. When I put this together i feel the air sucking these parts together it's that precise
 
Zerksies said:
But the uniloc joint is super precise, incredible tolerances. When I put this together i feel the air sucking these parts together it's that precise
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I love these arguments.

Proper tolerancing is not always tight tolerancing.

Know why the uni-junk seizes? The tolerances are too tight, so when any foreign material gets in the joint it binds. The very sharp threads can also create burrs that seize the joint.

Proper fit between components should be left to people who know what they are doing.
 
RDeca said:
Smh. Never mind. Just thought it would be nice to have two shafts for this cue. Hits and plays great the way it is. If u ever see one in good shape. Try it. Plays and feels as good as anything I've played. And that's with a LePro tip
Click to expand...
JoeyInCali said:
Great.
All you need is a conventional screw then.
Not some gimmicky bastard double screw.
I love it when someone disagrees with himself.
Click to expand...
What did I disagree with. The uniloc is fine but why use a pin that can and come lose at any time. Or one that might lock up? The best pins are mezz united (for a semi quick release) and the wavy for big pin into wood. (My opinion and most with experience with mezz will agree. Do all the other pins do their job most of the time. Yes. Can u tell the difference when playing...not really.

The only one u can tell the difference in is the qr Uni when it comes lose. Why it comes lose doesn't matter. It shouldn't come lose. During play. All most players care about is if the cue is strait and hits solid. You can adjust to everything else like balance taper weight tip hardness and diameter. There is no magic cue. Except for the ones u build with your superior big dick daddy cue building knowledge
 
RDeca said:
What did I disagree with. The uniloc is fine but why use a pin that can and come lose at any time. Or one that might lock up? The best pins are mezz united (for a semi quick release) and the wavy for big pin into wood. (My opinion and most with experience with mezz will agree. Do all the other pins do their job most of the time. Yes. Can u tell the difference when playing...not really.

The only one u can tell the difference in is the qr Uni when it comes lose. Why it comes lose doesn't matter. It shouldn't come lose. During play. All most players care about is if the cue is strait and hits solid. You can adjust to everything else like balance taper weight tip hardness and diameter. There is no magic cue. Except for the ones u build with your superior big dick daddy cue building knowledge
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Mezz wavy and Mezz united...barf.
 
Quick release joints are Definately here to stay. They've been around for a long long time.
It's World wide.
There's more manfacturers offering different versions of it than probably any other joint screw.
Precision and Marketing can sometimes leave a lot to be desired and of course DEBATED!
 
michaelsu51216 said:
Heard alot of bad feedback about this joint but its literally the only joint option predator produces now, is it worth paying to have it switched to a radial?
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I had a Predator cue with the Uniloc -- one night after having it about a month it "locked up" and grown men couldn't pull it apart. I sent it back to Pooldawg and they sent me a replacement.

Two months later after league finished, I couldn't get that one to break down, either. It literally took 3 200+ pound men to break it loose.

I take GREAT care of my cues, always use joint protectors, etc. Anyway, after that second one locked up on me, I sold all of my Uniloc cues (well, still have a couple of shafts I need to sell), and moved on.

Predator does make a Radial pin -- I just bought a P3 with it. I'll never buy another Uniloc in my life.
 
Grimper said:
I had a Predator cue with the Uniloc -- one night after having it about a month it "locked up" and grown men couldn't pull it apart. I sent it back to Pooldawg and they sent me a replacement.

Two months later after league finished, I couldn't get that one to break down, either. It literally took 3 200+ pound men to break it loose.

I take GREAT care of my cues, always use joint protectors, etc. Anyway, after that second one locked up on me, I sold all of my Uniloc cues (well, still have a couple of shafts I need to sell), and moved on.

Predator does make a Radial pin -- I just bought a P3 with it. I'll never buy another Uniloc in my life.
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That is unfortunate. If Cue makers and Cue manufacturer's took the little time it takes to polish the joint screws and face the joints after the joint screw was in. It would minimize most issues. Even New, one of the inserts could have a bur inside but not to often.
 
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Polishing screws really is this simple. In the cue or out.
This screw looks pretty bad but,
Run the lathe in reverse, (counter clockwise) duhhh
Dremil runs clockwise.
2 different bars of rouge.
Red 1st (compound)
Then white last.
1 buffing pad for each. Pennies on fleabay.
 

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