Very basic question

JC

JC

Coos Cues
What is the right thing to do with a Meucci ferrule repair. The tenons are about .38 inches which leaves a really thin ferrule. Maybe why they cracked to begin with? Should I cut the tenon down to 5/16ths so the new ferrule is thicker? Maybe make it a little shorter?

I picked up a hightower deluxe lathe an am just getting into basic repairs and want to do what's best. This is one of my friend's cues (who else would trust a beginner) and both shafts have cracked ferrules.

Thanks,

JC
 
JC said:
What is the right thing to do with a Meucci ferrule repair. The tenons are about .38 inches which leaves a really thin ferrule. Maybe why they cracked to begin with? Should I cut the tenon down to 5/16ths so the new ferrule is thicker? Maybe make it a little shorter?

I picked up a hightower deluxe lathe an am just getting into basic repairs and want to do what's best. This is one of my friend's cues (who else would trust a beginner) and both shafts have cracked ferrules.

Thanks,

JC
Click to expand...

I have repaired many Meucci cracked ferrules. I always turn the tenon down to 5/16 and put on a new and thicker ferrule.

There are those that will say that it will change the feel or the playing characteristics of the cue..

No one has ever noticed the difference except that the ferrule doesn't crack again.

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
I have repaired many Meucci cracked ferrules. I always turn the tenon down to 5/16 and put on a new and thicker ferrule.

There are those that will say that it will change the feel or the playing characteristics of the cue..

No one has ever noticed the difference except that the ferrule doesn't crack again.

Kim
Click to expand...

Thank you Kim,

JC
 
Maybe further examination of the considerations is in order.

Is the cue a 'Power-Piston' model?
The thin-wall ferrule and thick tenon are there for a reason.
Again, if P/P, there will be a void just under the cap of the ferrule.
The ferrule is meant to flex, that's the Power-Piston part.
They won't flex forever, eventually they'll give-out.

Even if not a P/P model, let's consider this fact: plastic weighs more than Maple.
It's been suggested that you reduce the tenon dia. and make-up the diff. with more, heavier plastic.
Not only will that change the hit of the cue but it will change the deflection characteristics of the shaft.
It will play differently though I'm certain that there are some players that wouldn't notice.
Before you go changing anything, you may want to get with your client to see what he's comfortable with.

So, is it a P/P shaft or is it a traditionally tenoned shaft? Has the shaft been turned-down?
These will determine your repair approach.
Assuming it's traditionally tenoned, I would go with a stronger ferrule mtrl. ie, LBM or Ivorine3
and leave the tenon dia. alone. That may actually improve the hit and not add significantly to deflection.

Obviously there are different approaches to this repair.
My only concern is that the practicing tradesman have adequate knowledge of the subject.
What you have in your head is the strongest tool in your box.

KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
Maybe further examination of the considerations is in order.

Is the cue a 'Power-Piston' model?
The thin-wall ferrule and thick tenon are there for a reason.
Again, if P/P, there will be a void just under the cap of the ferrule.
The ferrule is meant to flex, that's the Power-Piston part.
They won't flex forever, eventually they'll give-out.

Even if not a P/P model, let's consider this fact: plastic weighs more than Maple.
It's been suggested that you reduce the tenon dia. and make-up the diff. with more, heavier plastic.
Not only will that change the hit of the cue but it will change the deflection characteristics of the shaft.
It will play differently though I'm certain that there are some players that wouldn't notice.
Before you go changing anything, you may want to get with your client to see what he's comfortable with.

So, is it a P/P shaft or is it a traditionally tenoned shaft? Has the shaft been turned-down?
These will determine your repair approach.
Assuming it's traditionally tenoned, I would go with a stronger ferrule mtrl. ie, LBM or Ivorine3
and leave the tenon dia. alone. That may actually improve the hit and not add significantly to deflection.

Obviously there are different approaches to this repair.
My only concern is that the practicing tradesman have adequate knowledge of the subject.
What you have in your head is the strongest tool in your box.

KJ
Click to expand...

The old ferrules are not capped, the tenon runs through to the tip. The owner of this cue is not likely to know the difference no matter what I do other than the ferrule isn't cracked any more. This isn't why I asked the question though. I really want to know what you guys with lots of knowledge and experience think so I can learn. I have some solid, original Meucci ferrule material. What do you think about splitting the difference? Turning the tenon down to say .35? Or leaving the ferrule capped? I also have some Juma ferrules but they are only 3/4 long so I would have to reduce the length of the shaft by 1/4 but I could bore them to the original size. Again I appreciate the discussion because I have no pre conceived idea of what is the correct repair.

JC
 
Have you considered a 'search'?
I suggest that because you'll get vastly more opinions and advice, methods and procedures.
 
Last edited:
meucci

Even friends might take issue with a .250 shorter ferrule :) I am a believer in leaving things are close to the original maker's intended design and dimensions. Jmo.

Mario
 
When I was being trained to be a cue tech in 97 my boss would reduce the tenon to 5/16 to go with the thicker walled ferrule, and he instructed me to do the same. It was a very common problem we saw very often with this brand of cue and almost everyone had a Meucci at that time. I even did this to my own Meucci. Even before we knew what we now know about reducing front end mass, I knew that my cue played different, but I had no idea why. It didn't play bad, but it wasn't the same. It felt less lively than before if that makes any sense. As I've gained knowledge from all the good folks here on AZ and experimented with different setups on my own, I have become a big fan of the 3/8 tenon. So much that I had Steve make the tenon on my new Lomax 3/8 as well. I don't have any proof that this plays better. I just think it does. This is a long story (sorry) I guess just to tell you that I too would try to keep the bigger tenon. Bob made a great playing cue back in the day, and he has probably forgot more than I'll ever know about playability. I just regret all the Meucci's that I altered before I knew any better. Hope this helps...
Mikey
 
kj cues said:
maybe further examination of the considerations is in order.

Is the cue a 'power-piston' model?
The thin-wall ferrule and thick tenon are there for a reason.
Again, if p/p, there will be a void just under the cap of the ferrule.
The ferrule is meant to flex, that's the power-piston part.
They won't flex forever, eventually they'll give-out.

Even if not a p/p model, let's consider this fact: Plastic weighs more than maple.
It's been suggested that you reduce the tenon dia. And make-up the diff. With more, heavier plastic.
Not only will that change the hit of the cue but it will change the deflection characteristics of the shaft.
It will play differently though i'm certain that there are some players that wouldn't notice.
Before you go changing anything, you may want to get with your client to see what he's comfortable with.

So, is it a p/p shaft or is it a traditionally tenoned shaft? Has the shaft been turned-down?
These will determine your repair approach.
Assuming it's traditionally tenoned, i would go with a stronger ferrule mtrl. Ie, lbm or ivorine3
and leave the tenon dia. Alone. That may actually improve the hit and not add significantly to deflection.

Obviously there are different approaches to this repair.
My only concern is that the practicing tradesman have adequate knowledge of the subject.
What you have in your head is the strongest tool in your box.

Kj
Click to expand...

tap tap kj
 
meucci cues

After seeing the mess under a power piston ferrule and weird tenon I would ask the owner what he wants done .

The power piston ferrules are a weakest part and the owner may not want to pay for future repairs.


I also would look the shaft over really well because all of the black dot shafts have delaminate in my neck of the woods.

The power piston ferrules breaks all the time and a good chance you put one the ferrules will fail just like the last one.

I got one black dot shaft that I use as a pry bar so it will not scratch the chrome on my motorcycle.
 
Thanks everyone for this discussion. This thread now contains more thoughts on the subject than all the ones I searched.

This particular cue is about 10-12 years old and has no dots on the shafts nor is it a power piston shaft.. What I decided to do after conferring with the owner was to cut the tenon slightly smaller than original (.350) and bored out original meucci ferule material to fit at full length. Did it change the play? I'm not sure but the owner's primary concern was to minimize the chances of it breaking again without drastically altering it. It seems just fine to me.

JC
 
KeyHammonds said:
Chris, what material would you consider "high action" ??... Pvc? Ivorine? Just curious thanks
Click to expand...

The material on my site called High Action material. ABS is also a higher action material, but gets table burns too easily.
 
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