very thin lines

3

3RAILKICK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Are there ways to inlay materials in thin continuous lines around forearm/butt?
Sort of like 'pin-striping.

Are there colored resins that could be poured/squeazed into these small diameter continuous cuts?

Just wondering. Maybe a wrapless cored ebony butt with some subtle color pattern winding and wrapping its way up the butt out into the forearm.

Some colors (in small dosage) could look good on that deep rich shiny ebony sheen, Sort of like classy understated (less-is-more) pinstripping on a beautiful flawless gloss black paintjob.

Maybe it could have a wrap-just interrupt the line flows with the wrap.

Just thinking out loud. Been thinking about it for a while.

Do you guys make stuff like that?

Thanks
3railkick
 
If you just want them straight and perpendicular to the cue, you can use colored veneer rings. If you want the stripes to spiral their way up the cue, you'll have to use something else, like inlayed veneer strips, silver wire, or pigmented epoxy. Your results may vary, but it can be done.
Mr H
 
If you are looking for "saturn rings" of solid veneer that can be done too. If you want irregular shapes they can be milled from solid stock and assembled. However it would be a little expensive to go that route. Can you scan a drawing of what you have in mind?
 
Dan Prather has some cues done with Silver wire something like what I think you are suggesting.

For colors, the colored epoxy is probably the easiest method... Interesting question!
 
There is a product called "Inlace" that is meant for the application you describe. I use it in my signature. It comes in many colors and isn't too expensive. I believe it can be bought through Stewart-McDonald guitar building supplies. I have also seen it in the "Grizzley" tool catalog.
I haven't used it for anything but my signature, but I think it would work well for any thin line inlays. JMHO.
 
I just did a little checking and the "Inlace" product is NOT available through Stew-Mac altho they do carry some things that are good for the cue bui;ding/finishing.
The "Inlace" is available through Grizzly.com. Lots to chose from. Sorry for the incorrect info about Stew-Mac.
 
I don't know yet

:thumbup:Thanks guys-I don't know what I want yet. I am happy to hear that there are colored epoxies and such that could work.

I'm thinking of going off course -looking at colors that would be hardly noticed against the ebony until viewed up close.

Possibly malachite green, purple or burgandy, red? Maybe a 'ribbon' of three thin lines of color separated by bands of ebony that wrap around the butt and forearm in an upward spiral.

I guess I need a design progam with many color choices to work this out.

Thank you for your insight and patience

3railkick
 
Cool idea. Sounds like a lot of 4th axis work though.
Get real clever and cut real inlays in 4th axis, wrapping the cue (at least partially).....that'd be real impressive :thumbup:

Of course it'd be a lot easier with the tinted epoxy and/or silver wire, or similar, but it'd still take some decent 4th axis programming, depending on how elaborate your pinstriping ambitions are.

Sounds fun!

Frank
 
For what you want to do in your last idea, I'd suggest Purfling strips.

They are essentially colored vebneer, and what you do is soak them in a wood glue/water 'soup' for a while and they are VERY flexible.

I always used wood purflings (versus plastic) and was able to turn very complex curves with no problems.

Cut shallow on a tapered butt and rip the purfling length wise to allow it to flex in two axis'. It will be fidly, but it will work once you sort it out.

Soaked in the glue, it is ready to go. Get it in place and tape it down. Let is set overnight and do your final taper pass.
 
Foregive me-but

Jr's Farm said:
Cool idea. Sounds like a lot of 4th axis work though.
Get real clever and cut real inlays in 4th axis, wrapping the cue (at least partially).....that'd be real impressive :thumbup:

Of course it'd be a lot easier with the tinted epoxy and/or silver wire, or similar, but it'd still take some decent 4th axis programming, depending on how elaborate your pinstriping ambitions are.

Sounds fun!

Frank
Click to expand...

what is 4th axis? My ignorance is showing again. I probably don't need to know since I can't even finalize designing what's floating around in my head re an ebony cue. But I'd like to hear more about another thing that I don't understand. Especially if it imposes some construction limits on doing what I eventually come up with.

Thanks for your past/future comments

3railkick
 
The first three are X, Y and Z (side to side, in and out, and up and down)

The 'fourth axis' is the rotating table or rotating headstock/tailstock mounted on the bed of the mill.

So, you can orient or rotate the part, and still have another thre axis' of movement to attack it with.
 
I'll check it out

:thumbup:
Cue Guru said:
For what you want to do in your last idea, I'd suggest Purfling strips.

They are essentially colored vebneer, and what you do is soak them in a wood glue/water 'soup' for a while and they are VERY flexible.

I always used wood purflings (versus plastic) and was able to turn very complex curves with no problems.

Cut shallow on a tapered butt and rip the purfling length wise to allow it to flex in two axis'. It will be fidly, but it will work once you sort it out.

Soaked in the glue, it is ready to go. Get it in place and tape it down. Let is set overnight and do your final taper pass.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your time and interest. I don't know cue building techniques- I just have this wacky idea for a cue. I'll follow up and check it out.

Thanks again

3railkick
 
WOW now my head hurts

:thumbup:
Cue Guru said:
The first three are X, Y and Z (side to side, in and out, and up and down)

The 'fourth axis' is the rotating table or rotating headstock/tailstock mounted on the bed of the mill.

So, you can orient or rotate the part, and still have another thre axis' of movement to attack it with.
Click to expand...

A 'told you so' is in order. Thanks- that helps-it just hurts my little brain. It just reinforces my respect for the skills possessed by cue building craftsman to turn visualizations into reality.

I appreciate your response

3railkick
 
It is a bit confusing calling it a fourth axis, but it is also technically correct because rotation is involved.

I work with robotics a lot and those are six axis alone (x,y,z, about x, about y and about z) but you can also have extended axis' (which is a term I prefer to use) for seven, which might tilt a table and eight which might be the motor for rotating the turn table (or index it to specific positions) Dependant on the work being done. Nine is sometimes used to move the base of the robot on a track to specific positions for example when a larger diameter part is on the table. These can all be synchronized to operate together as well if desired.

So you can have a part rotating on the turn table while the robot addresses it, and then tilt it, and/or tilt, spin and stop spinning at specific points for touch-up, and then move the robot away from the table to facilitate loading/unloading as needed or whatever.

Robot controlled IO's can operate cooling air solenoids, air chucks, data logging, laser measurement device data collection etc.

Robots are cool....:)
 
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