Wax?
- Thread starter RareHare
- Start date
I have put Carnuba wax on mine before. Let it haze up and buff it off with a paper towel or rag. Felt kind of weird at first but after a few hours of play I really liked the feel of it. Shaft stayed nice and smooth for a long time, but not too slick either.
This comes up every so often. I copied and slightly modified some discussion on this from over a year ago. I'm pasting it here:
Originally Posted by Shevek
First Concept: If you have never used the Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax before, you want to start fresh and clean. So use Magic Erasure with water (per the directions) or alcohol (for even better results (?). This will work well, but if it's the first cleaning you've done in a while and you have lots of chalk bluing and the old wax/sealer, it's still going to take some time and elbow grease. Besides better cleaning, I think one reason to use alcohol, is that it evaporates quickly so it's less likely to raise the grain of the wood. Speaking of which, one key thing here is to use an ever so slight amount of alcohol (or water), in order to raise as little wood grain as possible - just enough to activate the Magic Erasure. This is why it could AND SHOULD be a slow process. After you're done, if you did raise the grain, you'll probably want to use a very fine grit sand paper to smooth things out again. This would be like a burnishing too almost. But you will remove some wood. So this entire "first concept" is hopefully a one time thing or VERY rare thing in the life of your shaft.
Second Concept: Apply the Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax as has been discussed (wax and cloth). If this is the first application after the initial cleaning, maybe do two applications. If I understood Varney correctly, NOW that this has been done, future applications of Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax will act as a cleaner and remove chalk while in the process of applying new coats - no more Magic Erasure.
Third Concept: Varney said to use Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax fairly regularly (once a week for everyday players?). So over time you build up a lot of wax, which is good, because it probably gets better and better in terms of keeping the shaft smooth in your stroking hand and clean. But the downside is that it might get too hard and end up having the feel of a cue butt with a clear coat finish on it. This is where the 0000 steel wool comes in. Apply it as Varney said to go back to a smooth buttery, rather than a smooth grippy.
Which by the way, I've always wondered why clear coat can be so smooth and yet so grippy at the same time - anybody? All I know is that I prefer "wrapless" cues.
Kevin Varney responds as follows:
Don
You've pretty much nailed it Don. They only thing I may add is that if your shafts are in fairly decent shape....you can skip Don's "first concept". The Magic eraser is only needed if your shaft is in horrible shape & you want it cleaned like new. The wax alone will do a pretty fair job of removing the blue chalk patina...only leaving it in the deepest of pores...and I don't mind that lightly used look on my shaft. I doubt I'd ever use the Magic eraser on my personal shafts. Instead of cleaning...just rub the wax on the shaft & look how blue your wax rag turns...thats clean enough for me...and I didn't have to raise any grain & LIGHTLY sand it back down.
Trueblu8 has it too....the more you use it the better. It'll keep building up a layer of protection and sealing the pores. One thing I stess is make sure you buff it VERY well after waxing. I don't even allow the wax to dry. I rub the wax in until I feel it heating up well....then grab a clean cloth and buff like crazy. Some players love this ultra slick finish....some may feel its sticky or tacky...kind of like the shaft has been cleared like the butt. I myself as a last and very final step take a piece of the 0000 steel wool and just VERY LIGHTLY rub the shaft 1 or 2 passes. This removes a bit of the shine and leaves a slicker feeling satin finish. I apply the wax every single time before or after I play. Every time I put my cue together my brain says "wow...this shaft feels good". If I let someone hit a ball or two....they have a 100 questions as to how and get theirs like that...they usually just hand over their shaft & $20.
Lastly...thank you for the kind words Gregg.
Originally Posted by Shevek
First Concept: If you have never used the Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax before, you want to start fresh and clean. So use Magic Erasure with water (per the directions) or alcohol (for even better results (?). This will work well, but if it's the first cleaning you've done in a while and you have lots of chalk bluing and the old wax/sealer, it's still going to take some time and elbow grease. Besides better cleaning, I think one reason to use alcohol, is that it evaporates quickly so it's less likely to raise the grain of the wood. Speaking of which, one key thing here is to use an ever so slight amount of alcohol (or water), in order to raise as little wood grain as possible - just enough to activate the Magic Erasure. This is why it could AND SHOULD be a slow process. After you're done, if you did raise the grain, you'll probably want to use a very fine grit sand paper to smooth things out again. This would be like a burnishing too almost. But you will remove some wood. So this entire "first concept" is hopefully a one time thing or VERY rare thing in the life of your shaft.
Second Concept: Apply the Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax as has been discussed (wax and cloth). If this is the first application after the initial cleaning, maybe do two applications. If I understood Varney correctly, NOW that this has been done, future applications of Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax will act as a cleaner and remove chalk while in the process of applying new coats - no more Magic Erasure.
Third Concept: Varney said to use Butcher's Bowling Ally Wax fairly regularly (once a week for everyday players?). So over time you build up a lot of wax, which is good, because it probably gets better and better in terms of keeping the shaft smooth in your stroking hand and clean. But the downside is that it might get too hard and end up having the feel of a cue butt with a clear coat finish on it. This is where the 0000 steel wool comes in. Apply it as Varney said to go back to a smooth buttery, rather than a smooth grippy.
Which by the way, I've always wondered why clear coat can be so smooth and yet so grippy at the same time - anybody? All I know is that I prefer "wrapless" cues.
Kevin Varney responds as follows:
Don
You've pretty much nailed it Don. They only thing I may add is that if your shafts are in fairly decent shape....you can skip Don's "first concept". The Magic eraser is only needed if your shaft is in horrible shape & you want it cleaned like new. The wax alone will do a pretty fair job of removing the blue chalk patina...only leaving it in the deepest of pores...and I don't mind that lightly used look on my shaft. I doubt I'd ever use the Magic eraser on my personal shafts. Instead of cleaning...just rub the wax on the shaft & look how blue your wax rag turns...thats clean enough for me...and I didn't have to raise any grain & LIGHTLY sand it back down.
Trueblu8 has it too....the more you use it the better. It'll keep building up a layer of protection and sealing the pores. One thing I stess is make sure you buff it VERY well after waxing. I don't even allow the wax to dry. I rub the wax in until I feel it heating up well....then grab a clean cloth and buff like crazy. Some players love this ultra slick finish....some may feel its sticky or tacky...kind of like the shaft has been cleared like the butt. I myself as a last and very final step take a piece of the 0000 steel wool and just VERY LIGHTLY rub the shaft 1 or 2 passes. This removes a bit of the shine and leaves a slicker feeling satin finish. I apply the wax every single time before or after I play. Every time I put my cue together my brain says "wow...this shaft feels good". If I let someone hit a ball or two....they have a 100 questions as to how and get theirs like that...they usually just hand over their shaft & $20.
Lastly...thank you for the kind words Gregg.
Secaucus Fats
Banned
I like to use Cue Doctor Wax. I apply it to the shaft with paper towel while the shaft is spinning on the lathe, then I let it dry to a haze and polish it up with a terrycloth washcloth. I like to use two coats. Once I'm done I hit it with a leather burnisher and a polishing rag. Works great!
I use wax myself.
Here's a helpful hint from my good friend Andy Gilbert. Don't use ordinary paper towels to wipe, or buff your cue. Scott, Sparkle, Brawney, and the others will, over time, dull the finish. Instead, use Vanity Fair premium paper napkins.
Here's a helpful hint from my good friend Andy Gilbert. Don't use ordinary paper towels to wipe, or buff your cue. Scott, Sparkle, Brawney, and the others will, over time, dull the finish. Instead, use Vanity Fair premium paper napkins.
I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax and have acheived good results, Put it on let it set about 10 min then buff it with a paper towel or cloth.
Lately though, I have been using a generic version of BioSilk and I am very pleased with the results. Walgreens and CVS have it in the hair care section it's called FX Silk Drops.
The main ingredients are Clycomethicone and Dimethiconal. I rub it on a paper towel and buff a shaft with it then let it dry and buff with a cloth. This stuff is pretty slick. It reminds me of Cue Silk but instead of paying $4-5 for 1/4 oz. The silk drops are $5 for 4.5oz.
I've had this bottle for about 6 months and have used about 1 oz at the most.
Thanks. I'm a bit of a car detailing nut, so I've got loads of product. I also happen to have butcher's wax for my wooden kitchen table. I put some Klasse All-In-One on the shafts of some house cues and could not believe the difference it made. Klasse is an acrylic based product, not really a "wax." If you believe a shaft can be "too" slick, this is not the stuff to use.
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