What do you recommend for a sealer or stabilizer

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Flex said:
I just checked out his website and only found a product to raise the wood fibers before using a sealer. BTW, a damp cloth wiped over wood will raise the fibers, and using a hair dryer will speed up the process. Using a damp cloth is free, his grain raising product will set you back some cash.

Did you find a sealer product somewhere on his website?

Flex
His treatment works very well, it dries faster than water will even with a hair dryer. It also penetrates the fibres and seems to harden them so after the finish sanding is completed, and you run a buff on the shaft, it gets shiner and smoother than if it wasn't used. It's not a sealer, but it seems to have some sealer type properties IMO. For a sealer, at this time, I use the one that Cue components sells. I bought a pint and they sent a quart instead, so I have quite a bit of it. It works well, dries very fast, but I use it on a spinning lathe, haven't tried it without spinning it.
Dave
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
There ya go.
Mix it with denatured alcohol and/or some other goodies all you want.
 

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KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
I was pretty surprised to see that it took 21 posts to finally get to
lacquer based sanding sealer. But then sometimes, the best things you have to wait for. Lacquer based sanding sealer (LBSS) is about the best sealer I've yet found for shafts. I also use it under the clear-coat finish on all shafts that I build. Ob-1 partial shafts are particularly grainy at the joint end and the LBSS does a great job of filling.

Here's my take on the sealing question. The bare shaft wood MUST be sealed before applying wax (or anything). Sealer of your choice. I prefer LBSS. It's hard, it penetrates and it seals the wood nicely. If you need it thinner you can whack it down with a little laq. thinner. If you need it thicker, leave the lid off for a while.

Wax on bare wood will eventually soften it. It will leach into the pores and soften the fibres. Wax needs to stay on the surface so seal the wood first.

The thought of WD on a shaft scares me. No sealer made for wood is going to keep it from penetrating. Once WD gets INTO the wood, it's only a matter of time before the wood becomes irreparably damaged. If you've ever used it on bolts, etc., you know how it penetrates and dissolves rust. Do you think the wood fibres on the interior of the shaft will endure the solvent assault any better?

Everyone is free to do what they want and these are only my opinions based on observation. I hope that I've provided food for thought.
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
His treatment works very well, it dries faster than water will even with a hair dryer. It also penetrates the fibres and seems to harden them so after the finish sanding is completed, and you run a buff on the shaft, it gets shiner and smoother than if it wasn't used. It's not a sealer, but it seems to have some sealer type properties IMO. For a sealer, at this time, I use the one that Cue components sells. I bought a pint and they sent a quart instead, so I have quite a bit of it. It works well, dries very fast, but I use it on a spinning lathe, haven't tried it without spinning it.
Dave

Thanks Dave. I appreciate the help!
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
There ya go.
Mix it with denatured alcohol and/or some other goodies all you want.

Thanks, Joey. Do you know if that stuff is available in local hardware stores? I tried to find it on Home Depot's website to no avail. It'd be quicker and easier if I could buy some locally instead of having it shipped.

Flex
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
KJ Cues said:
I was pretty surprised to see that it took 21 posts to finally get to
lacquer based sanding sealer. But then sometimes, the best things you have to wait for. Lacquer based sanding sealer (LBSS) is about the best sealer I've yet found for shafts. I also use it under the clear-coat finish on all shafts that I build. Ob-1 partial shafts are particularly grainy at the joint end and the LBSS does a great job of filling.

Here's my take on the sealing question. The bare shaft wood MUST be sealed before applying wax (or anything). Sealer of your choice. I prefer LBSS. It's hard, it penetrates and it seals the wood nicely. If you need it thinner you can whack it down with a little laq. thinner. If you need it thicker, leave the lid off for a while.

Wax on bare wood will eventually soften it. It will leach into the pores and soften the fibres. Wax needs to stay on the surface so seal the wood first.

The thought of WD on a shaft scares me. No sealer made for wood is going to keep it from penetrating. Once WD gets INTO the wood, it's only a matter of time before the wood becomes irreparably damaged. If you've ever used it on bolts, etc., you know how it penetrates and dissolves rust. Do you think the wood fibres on the interior of the shaft will endure the solvent assault any better?

Everyone is free to do what they want and these are only my opinions based on observation. I hope that I've provided food for thought.

Thanks KJ, you have indeed given me food for thought.

It's interesting you've mentioned that no wood sealer will keep WD from penetrating.

Just wondering why I haven't noticed any problems with the shafts I've coated with WD followed by carnauba and then furniture polish. Just because WD dissolves rust doesn't mean it'll eat wood, or break it down. And it sure does seem to keep water out.

Oh well... lacquer based sanding sealer will probably keep water and moisture out too.

I appreciate your help.

Flex
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Flex said:
Thanks, Joey. Do you know if that stuff is available in local hardware stores? I tried to find it on Home Depot's website to no avail. It'd be quicker and easier if I could buy some locally instead of having it shipped.

Flex
Woodcraft has them.
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
BarenbruggeCues said:
I heard if you spray WD on your fishing lures they'll hit harder and more often.

Is that so... Hmmm... what's it got in it, sugar or something that attracts fish? What kind of fish hit 'em harder?

Also, isn't WD poisonous? Will that get into a fisheater's system?
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
Flex said:
Is that so... Hmmm... what's it got in it, sugar or something that attracts fish? What kind of fish hit 'em harder?

Also, isn't WD poisonous? Will that get into a fisheater's system?

Flex, you can also apply a coat of Super Glue the entire length of the shaft, while spinning in your lathe. Then finish sand it smooth and Wax the supper glue will reinforce the surface of the wood and fill any gap's.

It works very well Flex, and many people do this even though they don't talk about it.

Take Care!!
 

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
It was a rumor that the basic ingredient in WD is fish oil. Maybe thats why
fish were supposed to hit on lures sprayed with it.
I had read an article that fishermen in the maritimes rubbed it into their arthritic joints as a pain reliever.
 

gregoryg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wd 40...

I have a friend who was an auto mechanic for over 25 years and he also swears by the arthritic properties of
WD 40. I just was never a big fan of how it smells.
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
manwon said:
Flex, you can also apply a coat of Super Glue the entire length of the shaft, while spinning in your lathe. Then finish sand it smooth and Wax the supper glue will reinforce the surface of the wood and fill any gap's.

It works very well Flex, and many people do this even though they don't talk about it.

Take Care!!

That's a great suggestion! Thanks so much!

Flex
 
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