I am looking for a good A-Joint Epoxy. I am currently using west system but I am looking for something that is thin and cures in minutes instead of 9 - 12 hours. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
thanks
what epoxy to use???
- Thread starter JBCustomCues
- Start date
Its funny, but I'm in the other direction, JB. I love 3M DP 420 for the A-joint and other critical structural areas even though its 24 hours to completely cure. I'm very skeptical of 5 minute epoxy anywhere on a cue except maybe to secure a butt sleeve. Best of luck.
Martin
Martin
JBCustomCues said:
Joe, just run down to your local ACE hardware store and grab a tube of the 5 minute epoxy. It should work for what you want it for. Give it about 30 minutes dry time before machining though, but it should get the job done. Be aware that it drys relativelly quick so use it in SMALL batches or you'll waste more than you use.
There is no 5-minute epoxy as good as West with 206 hardener.JBCustomCues said:
West bonds well with metal and wood in the same area and it grabs well.
joe, i use a blow dryer to heat up 5 minute devcon or prathers 5 minute epoxyJBCustomCues said:
heat it before mixing it together
lot easier to work with and will still dry as normal
i started doing this to seal a cue with, easier to spread thin and gives just a touch more working time too before it gets like bubble gum
Hey Brent. Sorry I did not get back with you the other day. Anyways I was hoping to find something that dries as rock solid as west system.
Just hoping to find something new.
Just hoping to find something new.
JBCustomCues said:
Mr. Baker
Why would you ever want to use 5 minute epoxy for something you want to last for years?
Michael Webb said:
If you read the post above yours I state that I am looking for the same properties as west system just with a faster curing time. And as for lasting for years with most epoxies heat is the only thing that breakes them down so as long as I dont expose the cue to a torch the epoxy should never break down. But anyways I am looking for something that cures as hard as wesy system just with a faster cure time. I am tired of glueing up an A-Joint and having to wait over night to true up the cue. Thats all. I am not saying that I am going to change just trying to find out what my options are.
thanks
Understood and Thank you,
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Joe we know the faster the epoxy sets, the weaker it is usually.JBCustomCues said:
The longer that epoxy sets, the better adhesion you have on the wood.
If these epoxies were all so great, you wouldn't come across so many rattlers our there.
JBCustomCues said:
When gluing wood with epoxy you don't want it to dry fast you want working time. You learn this when working around boats. With wood you do a "Wet out" first. Then wait a short while for the glue to be absorbed into the wood. Then apply a second coat and assemble. For a really strong joint you should use a filler with the second coat, it will increase the strength several 100% beyond just the resin it's self.
You also want glue that doesn't have inert additives used to make the 1 to 1 ratio such as is found in most epoxies. There is no such thing as a 1 to 1 mix. Those are designed to be sold in stores to amateurs without the ability or knowledge to do accurate mixing to fix their kids toy, not professional manufacturing. You want to do an accurate mix with only resin and hardener by weight or volume like you do with West.
Another reason to use a slower epoxy is you can be sure you have mixed it well. You should stir it for several minutes to be sure it is complete. I doubt most off the shelf 5 minute epoxy is ever mixed fully or as strong as the manufacture claims in lab tests when done by the average used in the field.
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5 min epoxy has it's place in the shop............just not in a cue!
<~~~5 min epoxy + cue = trouble
<~~~5 min epoxy + cue = trouble
JBCustomCues said:
I use West System on A-joints, gluing cores in, gluing up veneers and when gluing in points. When I glue an A-joint up, I wait a minimum of 1 week before I make a true-up pass. This is one place I don't want any movement later so I take no chances.
By the way West system has a 5-minute epoxy called G-5. Their web-site, however, states that it should not be used for permanent repairs.
Dick
Hi Dick,
I have G-5 its good for ferrules and butt caps. Besides that it I have no use for the stuff. It dries kind of rubbery.
I have G-5 its good for ferrules and butt caps. Besides that it I have no use for the stuff. It dries kind of rubbery.
Thanks to all who have replied. I looks like I'm gona stick with west system. It seems to be the best product out their. I'm just going to have to learn to wait.
thanks
thanks
Michael Webb said:
Could it be possible that some cues are not made to last for years?
What is the big difference between the offshore imports and an American made cue? Mostly the things you can not see!
IMHO the 'A' joint is the most critical joint on the cue and it is last place you would ever want to trade off strength for speed which is exactly what you are doing when you use a fast set epoxy. There is a place for that fast set epoxy but the 'A' joint is not one of them.
I use GolfSmith Shafting Epoxy and that takes at least 24 hours to set up properly. I would not even consider using anything else in the 'A' joint of a cue.
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I know of two makers using wood glue on joint screws.WilleeCue said:
The golf shaft epoxy is da nuts.
Both wood and metal would shatter/shear-off before that epoxy does.
I've just been using a 2ton, and have'nt had any failures so far. I wish there was a quick cure epoxy that was trust worthy. I can definatly see the advantages if there were one, but if there is I don't know of It either, and as much as I would like to, I'm not sure I would trust it, even if it was truelly equal to a slow set.
I've been thinking of trying the golf shafting epoxy.
I usually use 2 ton, altough I have tried a quick cure on joint pins before too, and altough I haven't had any failures yet, It could have something to with the pin fitting so snug in the threads to begin with. They snugged up toward the bottom when going in so well, that they could almost hold their own against backing out without any glue, altough I certainly would'nt want to trust that.
They were also full threaded pins without a shoulder, so there may have been more of a mechanical bond to back It up some.
Greg
I've been thinking of trying the golf shafting epoxy.
I usually use 2 ton, altough I have tried a quick cure on joint pins before too, and altough I haven't had any failures yet, It could have something to with the pin fitting so snug in the threads to begin with. They snugged up toward the bottom when going in so well, that they could almost hold their own against backing out without any glue, altough I certainly would'nt want to trust that.
They were also full threaded pins without a shoulder, so there may have been more of a mechanical bond to back It up some.Greg