What is best method to get Irish linen super slick?

jlrowe

jlrowe

Billiards,Boxing & Babes
Silver Member
Ive installed few wraps before and achieved pretty slick results by using different grits of sand paper and shoe polish.
What techniques are there? Ive just installed an antique white irish linen and would like to get it super slick and protect it. Could i use scotch guard or something to keep it from getting dirty?
 
jlrowe said:
Could i use scotch guard or something to keep it from getting dirty?
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I regularly use Scotch Guard on my linen wraps, then a very light wipe of carnauba wax on the next day. Just to make sure that the Scotch Guard is completely dry. Works pretty well for me
 
jlrowe said:
Ive installed few wraps before and achieved pretty slick results by using different grits of sand paper and shoe polish.
What techniques are there? Ive just installed an antique white irish linen and would like to get it super slick and protect it. Could i use scotch guard or something to keep it from getting dirty?
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I doubt anything will work long term for a White wrap. I would recommend sealing the wrap under finish like a Meucci, it really doesn't take a great deal of work and it will protect the wrap for years and years.

Take Care
 
jlrowe said:
Ive installed few wraps before and achieved pretty slick results by using different grits of sand paper and shoe polish.
What techniques are there? Ive just installed an antique white irish linen and would like to get it super slick and protect it. Could i use scotch guard or something to keep it from getting dirty?
Click to expand...

Spray clear over the wrap???:grin:
 
I would think about the best way to protect a nice white wrap would be to leave it in the case and use the one with black wrap.maybe not the best solution but I'll bet it works. actually I read on here somewhere that you can rub your wrap with wax paper to smooth and help seal it.I dont know if it works but it sounds good.
 
triley41395 said:
I would think about the best way to protect a nice white wrap would be to leave it in the case and use the one with black wrap.maybe not the best solution but I'll bet it works. actually I read on here somewhere that you can rub your wrap with wax paper to smooth and help seal it.I dont know if it works but it sounds good.
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Remeber wax attracts dirt, if you use the wax paper technique on a White wrap you will not like the result over time. If you chose to leave it in a case make sure it is a new case, because if it has been used and you put a cue with a waxed wrap into it the dirt will transfer.

What ever you do, good luck!!!!:grin:
 
I make up a solution from concentrated spray starch, and press with a oak tool, If I want it super slick I double press. That works perfect with better quality linens, but to me not all linens are created equal in that way, some press much easier & nicer then others.

The wax thing I never had any luck with, tried It with a black wrap of mine one time, and I got it pressed slick and all at first, but after a few weeks It started grabbing really badly, so much so that It was wearing the skin off my hand, and turning the wrap white. It was authenticated with My DNA all over the wrap:grin: Also as Craig mentioned It attracts dirt, not a good thing on a light color. I even got away from using carnuba wax on shafts, It polishes and works well, but for me the longevity isn't there and they have to re polished quite often.


The top paragraph is My best method, with the right type/brand linen, It comes out perfect every time, and stays that way if taken care of. It Is as shiny & smooth as most that I've seen, but It does work better with some linens then others.

I don't sand My wrap at all with that method, The linen and how well It goes on has a lot to do with the prep work I do, but sometimes I may have to clean It up a touch with a razor before pressing.
 
Brick layer

I sold a cue to a brick layer 2 years ago. It has a white with brown spec linen. This guy has morter dust and dirt on him all the time. I did 4 coats of Scotch Guard and the wrap still looks great. This does work and you do not need the wax.
 
wrap finsh

Hi,

I don't like sanding and sometime use a new razor to remove nits if they are a problem.

After pressing and starching I let it dry and put some Mohawk Rapid Pads french furniture burnishing polish on a paper towel and apply a light coat to the linen. I then use a 3 x 5 index card to burnish to wrap while it is spinning a med high speed between centers.

I agree with Greg, different wraps come out a little different. If you don't put too much Rapid Pads on the wrap it works very good on white and leaves a med shine that does not darken the white. If you put too much on then white will turn to off white.

Rick
 
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I use heavy starch and two sticks of hard maple to press it down. Before I do that, I sand a bit with some 600 and maybe 1200, but not too much. Wax is a waste of time. Some people use the linen roller. Porper's has it and so does unique. That's all u need to get it slick as snot.

P.S. Starch and heat is the key!
 
I agree with much of what has been said so far. As far as making a wrap slick I wet and press the wrap with a wheeled press (Porper) and lightly sand with 600 and 1200 as has been stated and then wet and press again. If I want it even slicker, I start with either 320 or 400 and continue to 1200, wet and and press. If you sand Irish linen it must be whetted and pressed afterward or it will get fuzzy later. Also it only needs a light sanding, not aggressive. I seal the wrap with a coat or two of thinned Mohawk Rapid Pad. I don't like wax nor starch as when the wrap gets damp from perspiration it will get tacky and attract dirt like a magnate. As someone else has stated, I would only consider installing a white wrap on a cue that I intended to finish over the wrap.

Dick
 
Thanks guys. Thanks dickie thats what i use 400 to 1200. Never tried the Mohawk pad. Im thinking of doing the scotch guard and trying the mohawk pad. The cue will be used very little. Its not going to be my main player just my fancy cue.
 
jlrowe said:
Thanks guys. Thanks dickie thats what i use 400 to 1200. Never tried the Mohawk pad. Im thinking of doing the scotch guard and trying the mohawk pad. The cue will be used very little. Its not going to be my main player just my fancy cue.
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I've never tried the scotch guard but I intend to give it a try.

Dick
 
I take some PPG clear and thin it down with thinner. After I do all the above stated with sanding I use the thinned down clear as a sealer. Works better than rapid pad. And doesnt have any yellowing to it at all. Once it has dried you have to press it again! Very slick and protected!
 
On one of my cues I have a white wrap. It was white, now it's sort of dirty cream color but it looks fantastic and I wouldn't change it for anything. I often get compliments on how well it goes with the cue.

Although I wasn't told this when I had the wrap put on it probably wouldn't hurt to tell the customer that the white will not stay pristine and they may or may not like the results a year down the road.

I took a chance and really love it.
 
Roadie said:
On one of my cues I have a white wrap. It was white, now it's sort of dirty cream color but it looks fantastic and I wouldn't change it for anything. I often get compliments on how well it goes with the cue.

Although I wasn't told this when I had the wrap put on it probably wouldn't hurt to tell the customer that the white will not stay pristine and they may or may not like the results a year down the road.

I took a chance and really love it.
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I've got antique white but I won't install it unless the customer wants a finish covering it like a smoochi.

Dick
 
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