What would you do here... Part 3

Can the 14 really be 2 railed?

In my experience, the cb has to be struck with center ball at about 65 mph, or else it wants to stay uptable. That means th 14 is not staying near your pocket.

And you prob have a better chance of hitting it long and hitting the stack. A flyer, fer sher.

Gotta keep it simple, plus, you already 3/2 in the hole, by the score.

You play better than he, knock balls away and live for another day, I say.
 
12-ball makes that kind of risky, no? That 4-railer is a great shot when the other guy's balls are even closer to his hole, but less strong here because of the 12 and because it's harder to really freeze up on the 8.

BB's shoot looks safe and simple to me: hit the 11 ball with follow and clear the 11 and 6. Be sure to follow enough to not leave the opponent any sort of look at the 10-ball.

If you know how to kick the 12 is not a problem.
 
I wish barking had specified which hole is which.

My first thought was black-balled's option... smack the 11 into the 6 and
as long as you hit the 6 on the side rather than in the face, both balls should bounce away.
But it looks like you can sell out the 10b bank unless the CB hides behind the 15/8.

Another thought is thin off the left side of the 9 and try to get the CB to go through the gap
between the 12 and rail. As long as you don't scratch it doesn't look like it sells out anything....
none of the balls in the pack or below can bank, and the 12 can't bank off the head rail cuz of the 14.
 
I wish barking had specified which hole is which.

My first thought was black-balled's option... smack the 11 into the 6 and
as long as you hit the 6 on the side rather than in the face, both balls should bounce away.
But it looks like you can sell out the 10b bank unless the CB hides behind the 15/8.

Another thought is thin off the left side of the 9 and try to get the CB to go through the gap
between the 12 and rail. As long as you don't scratch it doesn't look like it sells out anything....
none of the balls in the pack or below can bank, and the 12 can't bank off the head rail cuz of the 14.

He did. The shooter's hole is where the cue ball is.
 
I wish barking had specified which hole is which.

My first thought was black-balled's option... smack the 11 into the 6 and
as long as you hit the 6 on the side rather than in the face, both balls should bounce away.
But it looks like you can sell out the 10b bank unless the CB hides behind the 15/8.

Another thought is thin off the left side of the 9 and try to get the CB to go through the gap
between the 12 and rail. As long as you don't scratch it doesn't look like it sells out anything....
none of the balls in the pack or below can bank, and the 12 can't bank off the head rail cuz of the 14.
Bark says in the op...his opponent Dave owes a ball...
...Dave is shooting....and the coin signifying that he owes a ball is at
the lower right hand pocket.
 
I wish barking had specified which hole is which.

My first thought was black-balled's option... smack the 11 into the 6 and
as long as you hit the 6 on the side rather than in the face, both balls should bounce away.
But it looks like you can sell out the 10b bank unless the CB hides behind the 15/8.

Another thought is thin off the left side of the 9 and try to get the CB to go through the gap
between the 12 and rail. As long as you don't scratch it doesn't look like it sells out anything....
none of the balls in the pack or below can bank, and the 12 can't bank off the head rail cuz of the 14.

Assuming you make the 9, or make it less makeable from uptable, this shot is no good. Aside from being tricky (can scratch in the side, or sell a bank on the 5), even if you succeed the 12-ball is still makeable two rails--either straight with spin, or by sending it two-rails at the 8-ball.
 
Here is are latest what would you do shot. it is case game 3-3 and this was Dave's break. Dave shoots way better then me and he spots me 8-7 and we play for $50. I have 2 balls and he owes a ball. I left him this shot. What would you do with this layout?
There's no threat on the shooters side, and leaving up table or down table on the left hand side leaves a pretty free shot at the 12 (either a bank and or a cut - and in either case, the cue ball is going to end up right back where it is next shot) or the 14 (at least getting another ball in play for the left pocket. Pocketing the 9 or the 14 puts a ball on the spot, but the cue ball is going to be somewhere that any spotted ball can be moved (probably unfavorably).

Given all of this, I think Collin has a great right idea. Move the 11 and the 6 but hitting the 11 on top of the 6, which pushes the 11 and the 6 away. But, I might leave the cue ball closer to the middle of the table.

A couple other options that might be viable (espceically since we can only see one perspective of the action) - it might be an option to cut the [edit: 11] down the the bottom rail and move the 6 that way, moving the cue ball up onto the 10, or even higher up onto the 4/7. It also might be possible to simply push the 11 to the left rail and use right english to come off the bottom rail and bump the top of the 6 or bottom of the 8, either of which should be fine. If this angle isn't there, it might be workable to cut the 11 into the 15 and use right english to do the same thing. Just can't tell from here.

There is definitely something you can do here and no need to take a foul or shoot a hero shot. It probably won't be spectacular, but you are simply trying to live to fight another day. Put differently, there is no way to win the game from here. But there are a bunch of ways to make you loose it faster... Shoot the highest percentage shot you can execute to give you best chance to win.

-td

I would probably look at shooting the cue ball four rails to nestle in behind the 8. Maybe take a foul but not give up a shot.
Can you diagram this? I'm just not seeing how you get close to the 8. And unless you are prefect on this and actually freeze up on the 8 (or very, very close to it), you are going to leave a free shot - most likely on the 12 or the 10, but it could also be the 14 if the kick is short.

If you know how to kick the 12 is not a problem.
Just following up on this same concept - on the [edit: 4th] rail, if you hit the 3rd diamond up (closest to the side pocket) you can't nestle up to the 8 (either top or bottom). If you try to hit the 1st diamond (closest to the corner pocket) you can't either. So I read this to suggest you are trying to hit the 2nd diamond (for the [edit: 4th] rail) and then try to get up to the 8 off the bottom cushion by the first diamond [edit: for a 5th rail shot] (close to the 6)? The 12 is pretty close to being in the way, but you could miss it on the high side. If you do this, I'm not seeing how you hit the bottom rail to get to the 8. A picture/diagram might help, as I'm not able to visualize this shot and apparently you are.
 
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There's no threat on the shooters side, and leaving up table or down table on the left hand side leaves a pretty free shot at the 12 (either a bank and or a cut - and in either case, the cue ball is going to end up right back where it is next shot) or the 14 (at least getting another ball in play for the left pocket. Pocketing the 9 or the 14 puts a ball on the spot, but the cue ball is going to be somewhere that any spotted ball can be moved (probably unfavorably).

Given all of this, I think Collin has a great right idea. Move the 11 and the 6 but hitting the 11 on top of the 6, which pushes the 11 and the 6 away. But, I might leave the cue ball closer to the middle of the table.

A couple other options that might be viable (espceically since we can only see one perspective of the action) - it might be an option to cut the 7 down the the bottom rail and move the 6 that way, moving the cue ball up onto the 10, or even higher up onto the 4/7. It also might be possible to simply push the 11 to the left rail and use right english to come off the bottom rail and bump the top of the 6 or bottom of the 8, either of which should be fine. If this angle isn't there, it might be workable to cut the 11 into the 15 and use right english to do the same thing. Just can't tell from here.

There is definitely something you can do here and no need to take a foul or shoot a hero shot. It probably won't be spectacular, but you are simply trying to live to fight another day. Put differently, there is no way to win the game from here. But there are a bunch of ways to make you loose it faster... Shoot the highest percentage shot you can execute to give you best chance to win.

-td

Can you diagram this? I'm just not seeing how you get close to the 8. And unless you are prefect on this and actually freeze up on the 8 (or very, very close to it), you are going to leave a free shot - most likely on the 12 or the 10, but it could also be the 14 if the kick is short.

Just following up on this same concept - on the 3rd rail, if you hit the 3rd diamond up (closest to the side pocket) you can't nestle up to the 8 (either top or bottom). If you try to hit the 1st diamond (closest to the corner pocket) you can't either. So I read this to suggest you are trying to hit the 2nd diamond (for the 3rd rail) and then try to bet up to the 8 off the bottom cushion by the first diamond (close to the 6)? The 12 is pretty close to being in the way, but you could miss it on the high side. If you do this, I'm not seeing how you hit the bottom rail to get to the 8. A picture/diagram might help, as I'm not able to visualize this shot and apparently you are.

I will set it up at the pool room later and shoot it for you.
 
That was my first thought, but you'd leave a two way shot with a bank on the 12.

If you leave the cue 1 diamond south of the side pocket, then no shots are left open. Safes, sure, but I like my chances getting another ball back in when I'm down 3.
 
If you leave the cue 1 diamond south of the side pocket, then no shots are left open. Safes, sure, but I like my chances getting another ball back in when I'm down 3.

That's an extremely touchy shot and you'd have to leave him behind at least half of the 12, otherwise he'll play safe and stick you right into the pack.

When you're down 3 and stuck like chuck, you need to move the balls around.

Edit-

Remember, once you make the 14 in the corner. It spots up and if you don't hook him. He'll bump it to his side and leave you hooked. *At least that's what I'd do*
 
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All day. Cut it in and leave the cue downstream!

That is the SAME shot I saw as SOON as I looked at the layout, There are several other options available and people will debate the MERITS of each and NOBODY will ever be CORRECT except the "one-pocket" heroes who claim that this game CAN'T be played by ANYONE who hasn't devoted their ENTIRE lives to this ONE game ALONE.

That being said, I ALWAYS like Earl Strickland's answer when somebody asks something like this. He USUALLY sees the shot and says, "I'd just run out!" and leaves it at THAT without every explaing "WHAT"!

THEN HE DOES IT!!!

GOTTA LOVE EARL!!!
 
By cutting the 14 in and leaving him downstream, you people mean leaving cb by opponents hole, right?

I don't like it. I think the cut is no dead ball and a lotta shit can happen when whitey crosses all the time zones twice,

If I had to shoot that pebble from across the crik, I'd slow roll at it and leave him needing either a ladder or a splinter remover.
 
Plus, cb by his pocket has a good chance of leaving a long rail bank for him, as you have no threats on your side and you just opened up the bank lane.
 
9 in the side leave cb over by the 14
I like this, especially with it not being a Diamond table.
He's just going to cut the 12 or the 9 (that is now on the spot) and leave you in a worse position. If he makes the 12, you are toast. He can get to the same spot the cue ball is now and shoot the combo for the run out. If he shoots the 9, he's going to play off the long rail and leave you tied up again. And shooting either the 12 or the 9, he might be able to freeze you to a ball - like the 11. From the same spot - with the balls moved closer to his hole, you are really in trouble. Leaving a clean shot on the 12 (or the 9) - even from uptable - is a mistake in my book.

Put differently, shooting the 9 in can't win the game for you, but could lose the game. I wouldn't shoot it. No how. No way.

-td
 
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My pocket is on the left his is the right. Nobody saw the coin as a owed ball. He ended up shooting a sell out and I plucked in one ball like usual. Barely won the case game. I like this turn around from him breaking though.
 
If it was me I would two rail kick behind the 6 ball and take a foul or get lucky and hit the 6 slightly. Already owing one ball another is not a issue. It seems like I have lots of balls to cover balls on my side.
 
By cutting the 14 in and leaving him downstream, you people mean leaving cb by opponents hole, right?

I don't like it. I think the cut is no dead ball and a lotta shit can happen when whitey crosses all the time zones twice,

If I had to shoot that pebble from across the crik, I'd slow roll at it and leave him needing either a ladder or a splinter remover.

Sometimes you're a pretty smart cookie...must explain the results last time we played.
 
Sorry if this was already mentioned.

What about banking the 9 towards the 5, so it goes off the 5 and 7 towards your pocket?

It's easy to control the CB, and leave it right below the side pocket. I think as long as you hit the right side of the 5 (from our viewpoint), nothing should be pushed over to his side, and it shouldn't open any shots up.

If that's not possible, then I like just kicking behind the 6 and taking a foul.
 
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