What's Good About A Good Stroke?

the more you elevate the butt the more it will swerve, I always find when using english for a CB on the rail a flat firmer stroke imparts less swerve.

I also have no problem with miscues when hitting balls frozen to the rail with a fairly level cue. I am curious, however, with your use of the term "firmer stroke". Do you mean to hit it with more speed?
 
the more you elevate the butt the more it will swerve, I always find when using english for a CB on the rail a flat firmer stroke imparts less swerve.
At the end of the day you are going to have to compensate some if you depart from center ball..

Exactly you have to compensate for aim, and that is my issue with PJ, and Neil , CB does not go at the same direction as the cue when english is applied; does that mean stroke definition that PJ and Neil uses is for 100% straight shots no english??
 
I also have no problem with miscues when hitting balls frozen to the rail with a fairly level cue. I am curious, however, with your use of the term "firmer stroke". Do you mean to hit it with more speed?

Yes, seems with a soft stroke the masse is more immediate.
 
Exactly you have to compensate for aim, and that is my issue with PJ, and Neil , CB does not go at the same direction as the cue when english is applied; does that mean stroke definition that PJ and Neil uses is for 100% straight shots no english??

No, it doesn't. It just means that if you are going to masse' a shot, you have to change your aim line to start with.
 
Exactly you have to compensate for aim, and that is my issue with PJ, and Neil , CB does not go at the same direction as the cue when english is applied; does that mean stroke definition that PJ and Neil uses is for 100% straight shots no english??

Not sure what aim has to do with stroke. I can put a pretty good stroke on a ball with my eyes closed :)
 
Patrick I was trying to distinguish between a "normal" off the rail (slight elevation) and an unusually high elevation of the butt.
We can hardly ever shoot with a really level cue, but on the rail it's even more elevated than usual - so there's more swerve than usual. That's what I'm getting at.

Normally you wouldn't expect the condition of "elevated" to be included for a normal stroke. BTW, I shoot pretty close to level for a CB on the rail.
Our cues usually aren't as level as we think - that's why I point it out, even for normal (away from the rail) shots. It's unavoidable that the cue will be even more elevated for rail-frozen shots.

pj
chgo

P.S. I'm not as familiar with the rail profile on snooker tables, so there might be less unavoidable extra elevation there.
 
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Thank you, I finally understand the point you are trying to get across. now.



If you hold a hammer in your palms then this is NOT FOR YOU. I'm talking about a grip where you hold the hammer/cue in your fingers so that you can feel the cue/hammer as much as possible.

There are MANY ways to play this game and personal preference, so if throw a ball without your fingers/wrist, throw a dart with no fingers/wrist or use a hammer with no fingers/wrist, then you have a different way of doing things than I do, and that's fine.

I'm ONLY talking to players that have the "Touch" in their fingers and experience life/games/sports/ through that type of "connection".


The hammer motion is one that delivers the maximum force to the tip (for lack of a better word) of the hammer. If you uncocked your wrist where it contacts the nail and then locked your wrist and pounded the nail in that position (with no wrist) that's one way of doing it and many players play this way.

I use a system where I pre cock my wrist/fingers and create a "groove" where my wrists/fingers must move UP AND DOWN, with no SIDE TO SIDE motion at all. It's the "Side to Side" movement that throws your cue off line and causes you to miss hit the cue ball.

When you HINGE your wrist/fingers the cue MUST go down that "groove" and CAN NOT miss hit the cue ball to the Left OR the Right!!! This put you in a positon where you MUST hit the cue ball straight. This is how champion players hit the ball so straight, we simply CAN'T do it wrong.

I'm not saying all champions do it like I do it, but they do it in their own way. We MUST create a groove/slot/hinge (whatever you want to call it) so that the cue contacts the cue ball on a straight line EVERY TIME!

If you cock your wrist/fingers up slightly and then pounded the nail you would have some "wrist/finger flick" to add to the acceleration when you hit the nail.

If you cock your wrist/fingers more you will have more "wrist flick" and you could continue this until you cocked the hammer completely up and then you would have the maximum "wrist/finger flick" when you hit the nail.

I "pre cock" my wrist/fingers more than many other players, therefore I have more energy produced from my wrist/fingers at the moment of contact. Even with this happening it is so slight that you can't see me doing it. This is the issue with trying to learn the subtle secrets that the pros are doing, you can't see it being done. I'm tryin to give you a way to FEEL what it's like by using the hammer. This is a small powerful motion that you can only see on the break for the most part.


Watch the top professionals before they get down to shoot and you see them stroking their cue in the air. They are establishing their wrist/finger motion for the stroke they are about to shoot. We aren't stroking the cue to make sure it slides between our fingers smoothly, even though that is preferable, we're PREPARING our hand for the shot at hand. {pun intended}

The Key to Pool is in the Hands/Fingers/Wrists, so make sure you learn to Prepare Them For Success. 'The Game is the Teacher'
 
We can hardly ever shoot with a really level cue, but on the rail it's even more elevated than usual - so there's more swerve than usual. That's what I'm getting at.


Our cues usually aren't as level as we think - that's why I point it out, even for normal (away from the rail) shots. It's unavoidable that the cue will be even more elevated for rail-frozen shots.

pj
chgo

P.S. I'm not as familiar with the rail profile on snooker tables, so there might be less unavoidable extra elevation there.

Heres what I mean by normal as a reference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3wcB1mHMCzE#t=50s
 
It's like the old days in pool rooms where you had to play everyone

Thank you, I finally understand the point you are trying to get across. now.

It's such a simple concept, but challenging to describe in writing. Challenges make life worth living, especially in this situation. It's like the old days in pool rooms where you had to play everyone and they just lined up to "learn". :thumbup2:
 
Power level of stroke

I think most important factor behind a good stroke is to determine the accurate power level that is to be used for the stroke to send the cue ball in intended target. So one should divide his shots in various levels of speed and should practice at each speed level to get the perfection.
 
I think most important factor behind a good stroke is to determine the accurate power level that is to be used for the stroke to send the cue ball in intended target. So one should divide his shots in various levels of speed and should practice at each speed level to get the perfection.

Some player use a number system to help them with speed control, for example imagine a power scale from 1 to 5 in your head and apply different levels of power and record them in your memory, the reaction however has many variables such as distance between OB and CB and the point of contact of the tip on the CB.
 
CJ, you apparently need to understand something about how a professional nailer actually works. You are right in one thing, it can be analogous to a good pool stroke. However, not in the way you describe.

A professional nailer, someone who may nail thousands of nails per day, keeps a fairly light grip and lets the weight of the hammer do the work. If you try that wrist cock crap and attempt to use the muscles in your wrist to accelerate the hammer, you're going to need surgery to repair carpal tunnel syndrome in a relatively short period of time. If those muscles in the wrist are tightened at the time of impact, the vibration/shock coming back through the handle of the hammer will tear the joint up in a fairly short time period.
 
I grew up hammering nails and so did Earl Stickland and Wade Crane

CJ, you apparently need to understand something about how a professional nailer actually works. You are right in one thing, it can be analogous to a good pool stroke. However, not in the way you describe.

A professional nailer, someone who may nail thousands of nails per day, keeps a fairly light grip and lets the weight of the hammer do the work. If you try that wrist cock crap and attempt to use the muscles in your wrist to accelerate the hammer, you're going to need surgery to repair carpal tunnel syndrome in a relatively short period of time. If those muscles in the wrist are tightened at the time of impact, the vibration/shock coming back through the handle of the hammer will tear the joint up in a fairly short time period.

Yes, luckily playing pool takes a lot less effort than hammering nails, it's all about leverage. The hammer simply teaches how to create "potential energy" and how to deliver "kinetic energy". It's not about actually hammering nails. Don't confuse the message with the "messager". :wink:

My father was a carpender and owned a lumber yard. I grew up hammering nails and so did Earl Stickland and Wade Crane (R.I.P.-Billy Johnson). We all have really strong strokes and hammering nails certainly was a factor. Wade was a really good friend and went my pool room every day and his grip could crush the "normal hand".

Wade taught me his technique to the break and it involved this wrist movement and one other "element" that gave him tremendous power. You probably have to have a strong grip to play like we play, or be willing to do some hand strengthening excersises. I'm not sure about that part, and I do know it's about getting leverage.

That slot I speak of is essential to develop and it will be done with your wrist/fingers, in my opinion anyway. When I'm training to play I make sure I have absolutely NO play in my wrist to the left or right. I want my wrists to move up and down ONLY in my stroke. If you don't undersand that just put in on a shelf, it may be worth looking into later. 'The Game is the Teacher'
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