Me too, I had a plain Jane, brass rings, many years ago. And your right, no weight bolt.
Whats your butt weigh?
- Thread starter jayman
- Start date
5/16x14 butts 14.2-14.4-14.7-15.2-15.6
3/8x10 butts 14.7-14.9
wood shafts 3.4 to 4.3
cf shafts haven't weighed yet
3/8x10 butts 14.7-14.9
wood shafts 3.4 to 4.3
cf shafts haven't weighed yet
Break cue butt: 15oz
Playing cue butt #1: 12oz
Playing cue butt #2: 11.5oz
Playing cue butt #3: 13oz
I like the exactness I can get with a lighter butt. Not saying you cant be exact with heavier butts , Im just speaking on my preferences.
Plus the lighter butts slighty off set stiffer hitting cf shafts like revo.
I.E. it slightly lessens the energy transfer while not compromising the legnth of the stroke.
It also changes the balance point to be perfectly horizontal while holding from the middle of grip . At least thats how it is for me with my primary cue butts ,which butt 1 is birds eye 4pt , and butt 2 which is just standard hard rock maple 4pt.
Playing cue butt #1: 12oz
Playing cue butt #2: 11.5oz
Playing cue butt #3: 13oz
I like the exactness I can get with a lighter butt. Not saying you cant be exact with heavier butts , Im just speaking on my preferences.
Plus the lighter butts slighty off set stiffer hitting cf shafts like revo.
I.E. it slightly lessens the energy transfer while not compromising the legnth of the stroke.
It also changes the balance point to be perfectly horizontal while holding from the middle of grip . At least thats how it is for me with my primary cue butts ,which butt 1 is birds eye 4pt , and butt 2 which is just standard hard rock maple 4pt.
Your playing cues have to be the lightest cues I've ever seen or heard of anyone using.
Playing cue butt #1 of 12 oz. with a LD shaft of 3.3 oz would be 15.3 oz.; with a 4 oz. wood shaft would be 16 oz.; and a 4.5 oz. wood shaft would be 16.5 oz.
Playing cue butt #2 of 11.5 oz. with a shaft of 3.3 oz LD shaft would be 14.8 oz; with a 4 oz. wood shaft would be 15.5 oz; and
a 4.5 oz. wood shaft would be 16 oz.
All I can say is to each their own. Did you grow up playing Snooker?
I always have to go back to the "nerves factor" and the difference in feel between what sensations we have with no pressure and a lot of pressure. Picking up a tiny, injured canary gently in the yard as I was perusing my lawn might be one thing, but
picking up the canary with the neighbor's German Shephard growling and barking while running to grab my ass would be
an entirely different story in grip pressure and probably squashing the bird to death.
We have different feelings in our hands and entire body when playing for fun or practicing than really being under the gun
and being bitten in the ass or wallet. I need the feel of a heavier cue because I can hardly feel a light cue at all when uptight.
Ill Gotten Gain
Deceased
Butt with rear extension now weighs 18.3 oz
Agreed 100%.
The Heubler on the far left is 20oz, the Huebler next to it is 19.9oz - a .01 weight difference. I don't remember the actual balance point but the first cue is around 18.5" and the BP on the 2nd cue is around 20" - I played with #1 for almost 30 years and I simply can't play with #2 as the BP makes it "feel" too heavy.
Would you know the weight of only the cue butts versus the cue playing weights you described?
The sense of feeling heavy can have a lot to do with the weight ratio of the shaft and the cue butt.
When a cue uses a single heavy weight bolt, that would definitely influence the feel of one’s stroke.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
I build my cues without weight bolts nor accommodations for such. Wood to wood joint with a big pin where the pin is the only metal in the cue anywhere. Using a spread sheet I wrote for pre planning weight I can generally come within a couple tenths of an ounce by using different core woods. I like my butts to come in between 14.8-15.8 oz. as this seems to be the range that will sell easiest and also provide nice balance. Shaft diameter makes more of a difference than people realize. Reduce a shaft by .2mm with a pro taper and you have lost a couple tenths of an ounce up front.
I will get them.
Regarding the weight ratio of the shaft and butt - I agree and I'm not sure how far you've gone down that rabbit hole but things I have been thinking about (and planned on starting threads about in the "near" future) are - types of wood, cored handle?, length of cue (is a 60" cue more forward or rear balanced by default? How much does taper affect that, ), if you take a cue with a 19" balance point and convert it to 18" balance point - does it affect the hit?
If you look at the time of day I posted this you will understand how I missed this before answering
As does the weight of the shaft in conjunction with the butt. I've had shafts weigh in at 3.3 oz. up to 5 oz. and everything in between.
Zerksies
Well-known member
Damn right. That's messing with the balnce point too. And messing with the weight of the feel of the cue
Here’s what I learned. I’ve discussed this with Bob Runde, Bill Stroud, Joel Hercek, Richard Black, Ed Prewitt, Tim
Scruggs, Bob Owen and Jerry Rauenzahn. There is a weight zone for the shaft and when you deviate, the results,
i.e., feel of the stroke, change a lot. Of course, the size of the shaft, taper, tip, joint etc. are also factors but from the
cue maker’s approach, there’s a weight ratio to matching the shaft and butt. Here’s what I was told and it really does
apply if you look at the best names in cue making. If you are going to have a custom cue built, you should follow it.
But then again, if you are using a good cue maker, he already knows this and incorporate it when building your cue.
The first thing is a weight bolt is not necessary and when it is used, the lighter the better. And positioning smaller
headless bolts in a cored butt is better than screwing one single bolt in the butt unless it was a light (7-14 grams).
The assembled cue weight, or more commonly referred to playing weight, is the combination of the butt and shaft.
Of course, everyone knows this but the shaft weight should ideally be a minimum of 18% of the weight and not
more 23%. However, the best cue makers aim for shafts weighing 20% -22% keeping in mind that piloted joints
meant that the shaft has a brass receiver which adds a bit of weight to the shaft versus a flat faced wood cue shaft.
Take a look at the cues built by the best names in cue making & you’ll see this holds true. When the shaft is a light
weight, many players, if not most, tend to push the cue more. I realize this will always come down to a pool player’s
preference so whatever works for you is the only thing that matters. So play with what you like but if you are going
to be buying or ordering a cue, maybe keep this in mind. The cue maker will corroborate the weight ratio is important.
I am merely passing along information I learned from the cue makers I mentioned that are really top shelf names, IMO.
Scruggs, Bob Owen and Jerry Rauenzahn. There is a weight zone for the shaft and when you deviate, the results,
i.e., feel of the stroke, change a lot. Of course, the size of the shaft, taper, tip, joint etc. are also factors but from the
cue maker’s approach, there’s a weight ratio to matching the shaft and butt. Here’s what I was told and it really does
apply if you look at the best names in cue making. If you are going to have a custom cue built, you should follow it.
But then again, if you are using a good cue maker, he already knows this and incorporate it when building your cue.
The first thing is a weight bolt is not necessary and when it is used, the lighter the better. And positioning smaller
headless bolts in a cored butt is better than screwing one single bolt in the butt unless it was a light (7-14 grams).
The assembled cue weight, or more commonly referred to playing weight, is the combination of the butt and shaft.
Of course, everyone knows this but the shaft weight should ideally be a minimum of 18% of the weight and not
more 23%. However, the best cue makers aim for shafts weighing 20% -22% keeping in mind that piloted joints
meant that the shaft has a brass receiver which adds a bit of weight to the shaft versus a flat faced wood cue shaft.
Take a look at the cues built by the best names in cue making & you’ll see this holds true. When the shaft is a light
weight, many players, if not most, tend to push the cue more. I realize this will always come down to a pool player’s
preference so whatever works for you is the only thing that matters. So play with what you like but if you are going
to be buying or ordering a cue, maybe keep this in mind. The cue maker will corroborate the weight ratio is important.
I am merely passing along information I learned from the cue makers I mentioned that are really top shelf names, IMO.
My Pechauer break shaft is 6.5
I bought the 'Pechauer Naked Break Cue with the black Ice Shaft'.
It's a 2021 model, I carefully opened the box and pulled out the cue in
it's clear plastic sleeve. What a beauty, there were 6 balls so i ran 'em out, without chalk.
I the cue down, put it back in the box it cam in.
the bars i play at now I wouldn't dare bring one of my nice cues in
I'm playing with a Samsara that's right on 14 oz. 17.5 total. I feel I don't need anything heavier, I have a powerful stroke, works for me.
I haven't forgot about these weights, I actually created a spreadsheet for all of my cues, I should have time in the next week or two to get back to it.