What's your shot?

Neil said:
Came the closest so far with a good explanation of your thinking on the layout, but how would you set the cb to make the one and maximize your chances of hitting the 3-9???
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Before reading any responses, based on the table you provided I was hitting the one down the corner, as well, with a breakout on the 3/9. I would set the cueball up with the 30% angle rule in mind (the peace sign - index and middle finger) and striking the cueball at 2 o'clock.

Should break them out and the two is makeable from most of the table.

Best,
Brian kc
 
Neil said:
Yes, it is possible, but if you control your speed and just try to separate them and not send them flying all over the table, your chances of hooking yourself are real, real, low. Not enough to worry about IMHO.
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I hooked myself once when i was a kid...
...i've been snakebit ever since....:smile:
 
Neil said:
Come on guys, I know there are some real good players reading this thread. No one knows how to aim to know where to set the cb to maximize breaking out the 3-9?? Does everyone on here only go by 'feel'??

I have a way that I came up with years ago, that may very well be in print, but I don't recall seeing it in print. I'm sure there are several ways to aim it or carom players would have a real problem. I was hoping to see some way to aim it different than I do, but no one wants to 'spill the beans' if they do have a way.

edit- Thanks Kicken' Chicken, that's one way to aim it. Any others??
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Neil, I just went to my rec room and set it up. Made the breakout 4 out of 5; the one that missed was by 2 inches.My fault.

Just slightly offset from straight, cue ball on the headstring back in the direction of the top corner, and hit with 2 o'clock on the cue ball, I watched as whitey and number 1 made their 30% seperation as they went down table, very nicely.

Is there a better percentage way to break them out? I can't think of one...

Best,
Brian kc
 
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As far as the breakout goes, I choose the 1-rail with low-left because:

a) the target appears to be bigger when you come in from that angle. You can hit 1 rail or two and still make contact with the 9, or if you come too short, you can still catch the 3.

b) I always look for the most natural path for a breakout. the 1-rail with low-left requires a variation from the tangent line, but not a dramatic one such as force-following would be.

c) unlike sending the cueball straight down table at the cluster, coming in at an angle carries less risk of having the cueball ending up trapped at the far end of the table, possibly jacked up over something.

d) breaking out the 3 from that angle guarantees that the 3 moves toward a fairly open part of the table, increasing the likelihood of getting all the way out.

e) on my table at home, at least, it appears that a firm hit with maximum low-left would be just about perfect for the shot. I view "maximums" kind of like a golfer views a full swing; it is easier to predict and replicate than a 70% swing. my maximum draw is far more predictable than my 70% draw, etc.

Is that what you wanted Neil? :smile:

Aaron
 
Neil hit the shot exactly as shown but the cue ball caromed off the nine hitting the head rail... side rail, and stopped squarely behind the 6. :D
 
Black-Balled said:
IMO, there are too many variables to have a 'system'.

Gotta be mainly feel.
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There's certainly gotta be feel involved, because this shot requires a certain amount of speed, and you have to judge how much that speed is going to mess with your carom angle. But for a rolling CB, the system Neil posted is really quite accurate. You draw a line from the center of the ball you're caroming off (the 1) to where you want the CB to go (the 9), and you aim the cue towards the place where that line exits the first ball. The harder you shoot, the more the final CB angle adjusts itself back towards the 90-degree tangent, and so you have to adjust for that.

-Andrew
 
I'd shoot the one in the corner and draw straight back into the 9/3.

If i somehow missed it, i'd just play safe on the 2 in some way shape or form.
 
I don't like touching the 3/9 here. I would probably try a safety leaving the cue ball behind the 8 and the one ball behind the 6. That way, I will get behind the 8 the vast majority of the time and the 6 will probably make the kick a bit tougher for my opponent. If my opponent gets lucky and kick safes me or kicks the ball in or by some chance I miss the safety, he still has to deal with the 3/9. Also, if my opponent fouls, I can use the 6 to try to 3 foul him.

Trying to break out the cluster from the safety is tough. The area the 1 will land in doesn't leave much room for error on the cue ball and if you hit the cluster a bit thin, the 1 ball might even come back into the open. If you miss hiding the cue ball you've lost, if your opponent gets a roll, you've lost. Frankly, I don't like those odds.

Trying to run out from here isn't easy, but I might try it on a faster table on a good day. Hill-hill in an important match, I would probably play safe.
 
I would shoot the 1 in the side follow a few inches, 2 in the right foot corner pocket. Then I would use alot of draw back, and go for the 3-9 combo cross side.
 
What size of table were you shooting on? This may determine if I want to go offensive or defensive. The safe above isn't bad, but I would be willing to bet some people might not hit that safe well (possibly myself included). They will either not have the speed or angle to leave the cue ball behind the 8...depends on the skill level. Also is the 3 froze? If this is a 9 foot table and you are uncomfortable trying the safe above you can try a different safe. You can shoot the 1 and then the 2 drawing to somewhere in the middle of the table. Depending on where the cue ball ends up you might be able to double kiss the cue ball hitting straight into the 3 (on a big table) leaving maximum distance between the the 3 and the cue ball. If you don't get the correct angle for that you might be able to thin the 3 and do something similar with the distance and the cue ball. Once again I might like this if I am not confident with the safety listed above, and if this is on a big table. It also might depend on how close the 9 is on the 3 for the hit...diagrams are hard to tell sometimes.

Also...nobody questioned who Neil was playing or what speed they play. That may also determine if I go offensive or defensive.
 
First i would like to say that there are so many different ways to handle this situation so what i say could be wrong or the way others would do it is not entirely wrong. Everybody shoots differently but i truely believe that playing the percentages is the way to go.



The one appoarch of shooting the one in the side to break up the 3-9 is a very risky shot. Reason being is that two bad things could happen...


1.) You break the 3-9 out but the 3 abll gets tied up on the 5 near the corner so your back to square one.

2.) You break out the 3-9 and the 3 is out in the open but you came across the right side of the 9 a little to hard and float the cueball behind the 6 ball leaving you in jail and a very possible CBIH situation for your opponent to runout the rest of the broken up rack.


Now think about a more defensive / Offensive appoarch to this. I would (again this is my appoarch so it may not be the best but i like my odds :smile:) make the 1 ball in the pocket where the 2 ball is. Leave a good angle on the 2 ball to float down the side rail just past the side pocket in line (or straight in line) with the 4 ball.

You have a right cut angle on the 3-9 cluster so i would graze the 3ball (rail first) with top right and clip the 3 into the 9 ball keeping it on the end rail and have the cueball head up table near the 8 ball.

No matter where the cueball ends up your opponent is either gonna have a tough combo on the 5 ball or a carom at the 5 which are sell out shots if missed (or possible if made) leaving you out.

I dont understand why everybody has to try and break up a cluster... Get shape and then runout. Isnt it easier to leave the hard stuff for your opponent to do knowing that if he or she screws up their done??

JMO ;)
 
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