When installing rail cloth.

well I will say this, although I have never had the request it would be easy. I do however sometimes tilt my GC V just to torture my friends but put it back to level after they see it.
 
Critiques?

Here's how I do it....
 

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Feather Strip "sizing"

Hey guys,
I've read through every article on this site for the most part and really appreciate a site like this and all that post. (long time reader 2nd time... postER) :grin-square:

I'm almost finished with my table refurb and the last thing I'm faced with is getting my feather strips the correct thickness and height. I got my block plane out and started trimming them down yesterday. Unfortunately the strips I bought are much too thick.. pretty much double the size needed. Got any tips on measuring how tight is too tight? I'm actually thinking of setting up a fence on my band saw and ripping these feather strips down to a more manageable size but don't want to take them too far down. Since they are just basswood I would imagine you could just force them in if you were close. My concern is damaging the rail by trying to force too big of a feather strip in. Sorry for the newbie question, first time around working on a table.
 
Hey guys,
I've read through every article on this site for the most part and really appreciate a site like this and all that post. (long time reader 2nd time... postER) :grin-square:

I'm almost finished with my table refurb and the last thing I'm faced with is getting my feather strips the correct thickness and height. I got my block plane out and started trimming them down yesterday. Unfortunately the strips I bought are much too thick.. pretty much double the size needed. Got any tips on measuring how tight is too tight? I'm actually thinking of setting up a fence on my band saw and ripping these feather strips down to a more manageable size but don't want to take them too far down. Since they are just basswood I would imagine you could just force them in if you were close. My concern is damaging the rail by trying to force too big of a feather strip in. Sorry for the newbie question, first time around working on a table.

Wood featherstrips are 1/4" X 5/16"
Typically a strip will lay easily into the channel with no force and should have just a tad of play.
You'll want to cut them to exact length as well as cut the angle prior to use.
 
Hey guys,
I've read through every article on this site for the most part and really appreciate a site like this and all that post. (long time reader 2nd time... postER) :grin-square:

I'm almost finished with my table refurb and the last thing I'm faced with is getting my feather strips the correct thickness and height. I got my block plane out and started trimming them down yesterday. Unfortunately the strips I bought are much too thick.. pretty much double the size needed. Got any tips on measuring how tight is too tight? I'm actually thinking of setting up a fence on my band saw and ripping these feather strips down to a more manageable size but don't want to take them too far down. Since they are just basswood I would imagine you could just force them in if you were close. My concern is damaging the rail by trying to force too big of a feather strip in. Sorry for the newbie question, first time around working on a table.
Measure the width of the feather strip dado groove, then subtract about 1/16" of an inch from that measurement, and that's about how thick the feather strip should be.

Glen
 
I think and I do make the feather strips just slightly (a spec) shorter than the channel on the ends because now you have some play which will end up giving you a better appearance later and eliminate any visual problems if the strip walks ever so slightly on you. So I think the best way to do this is to either sand them off on the ends just a hair or trim them with your razor. When making new feather strips I would also consider what type of cloth you were going to use.
 
Thanks

I appreciate the advice guys, I will get the feather strips trimmed down to size tonight hopefully.
I finished my pockets last night using Glen's plumbers strip method. I didn't have the cloth quite where it should be to get it in the pocket. After a little water and patience I was able to get them glued down clean. Not only does it look good, but its very forgiving for someone that maybe didn't do such a great job getting the cloth into the pockets. :cool:
 
I appreciate the advice guys, I will get the feather strips trimmed down to size tonight hopefully.
I finished my pockets last night using Glen's plumbers strip method. I didn't have the cloth quite where it should be to get it in the pocket. After a little water and patience I was able to get them glued down clean. Not only does it look good, but its very forgiving for someone that maybe didn't do such a great job getting the cloth into the pockets. :cool:

Good job, lets see some pictures when you're done:D
 
Good job, lets see some pictures when you're done:D

Oh man... I don't know. I'm kind of embarrassed with my first attempt. Not a complete hack job but still not worth sharing. Actually 10x better than the last installer did :D but it's pretty far bellow your standards... and mine actually. its a $280 eBay table, unknown manufacturer. rails were all beat up from the kids using it as a playground, slate screws broken off, rail bolts missing, pocket bolts missing!

I may post a few picks on the hack jobs thread... :) I have some zingers to share from the previous installers work! For example, nailed feather strips that had about 50 per rail, a table leg that had an insert in the hole where the lag bold should go that was just sitting there allowing the leg to just dangle if you lifted the frame up off the ground! The hole wasn't drilled all the way so they couldn't install the lag bolt!? Oh and the best was the pieces of tire inter tube they used for the pocket facings! I kind of liked the big thick hunks of sticky padding they stuck on the bottoms of the legs too! must have been so they could slide the table around on the floor!?
 
Oh man... I don't know. I'm kind of embarrassed with my first attempt. Not a complete hack job but still not worth sharing. Actually 10x better than the last installer did :D but it's pretty far bellow your standards... and mine actually. its a $280 eBay table, unknown manufacturer. rails were all beat up from the kids using it as a playground, slate screws broken off, rail bolts missing, pocket bolts missing!

I may post a few picks on the hack jobs thread... :) I have some zingers to share from the previous installers work! For example, nailed feather strips that had about 50 per rail, a table leg that had an insert in the hole where the lag bold should go that was just sitting there allowing the leg to just dangle if you lifted the frame up off the ground! The hole wasn't drilled all the way so they couldn't install the lag bolt!? Oh and the best was the pieces of tire inter tube they used for the pocket facings! I kind of liked the big thick hunks of sticky padding they stuck on the bottoms of the legs too! must have been so they could slide the table around on the floor!?

No matter:D it's still nice to see someone else have to go through what mechanics go through all the time:D my hats off to you for even taking on this kind of project:D

Glen
 
Oh man... I don't know. I'm kind of embarrassed with my first attempt. Not a complete hack job but still not worth sharing. Actually 10x better than the last installer did :D but it's pretty far bellow your standards... and mine actually. its a $280 eBay table, unknown manufacturer. rails were all beat up from the kids using it as a playground, slate screws broken off, rail bolts missing, pocket bolts missing!

I may post a few picks on the hack jobs thread... :) I have some zingers to share from the previous installers work! For example, nailed feather strips that had about 50 per rail, a table leg that had an insert in the hole where the lag bold should go that was just sitting there allowing the leg to just dangle if you lifted the frame up off the ground! The hole wasn't drilled all the way so they couldn't install the lag bolt!? Oh and the best was the pieces of tire inter tube they used for the pocket facings! I kind of liked the big thick hunks of sticky padding they stuck on the bottoms of the legs too! must have been so they could slide the table around on the floor!?

Please please please tell me you got before and after pics!
Love seeing improvements done on a table-
 
I wanted to bump this thread for foxy gary since he is having probles installing the rail cloth on his Olehausen and I will be facing this issue in the next day or 2. See page 2 and 3 starting with post #21 on this thread for olhausen rails.

Real king cobra you are the master and I found this post by referencing your past posts. Hope you don't mind my bringing this back to the front of the board for Gary.

John


Pat, this is your friend Brian's 8ft Olhausen table I set up yesterday here in Vegas.

I've you guys will notice, I don't have any staples holding back any folds or puckers waiting to happen in these pictures. And, when stapling the rails on an Olhausen that don't have the cloth dado relief for the cloth, place your staples further back, about 1/2" or so and when you bolt down the rails, you won't get that loose cloth sag between staples under the rails. I don't know where the pull the cloth as tight as you can when setting the feather strip came from, but I have found out over the years that pulling it tight as you can...makes it harder to get rid of the slack in the corner pockets. In these pictures you can see I don't have any problem with the Simonis 860 installed on these rails. The trick to installing good rail cloths is to keep it manageable in the pockets as far as I'm concerned.

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RealKingCobra......it looks like you are "folding" the ends??? I thought we were not supposed to fold them. Confused.

Pat, this is your friend Brian's 8ft Olhausen table I set up yesterday here in Vegas.

I've you guys will notice, I don't have any staples holding back any folds or puckers waiting to happen in these pictures. And, when stapling the rails on an Olhausen that don't have the cloth dado relief for the cloth, place your staples further back, about 1/2" or so and when you bolt down the rails, you won't get that loose cloth sag between staples under the rails. I don't know where the pull the cloth as tight as you can when setting the feather strip came from, but I have found out over the years that pulling it tight as you can...makes it harder to get rid of the slack in the corner pockets. In these pictures you can see I don't have any problem with the Simonis 860 installed on these rails. The trick to installing good rail cloths is to keep it manageable in the pockets as far as I'm concerned.

View attachment 91037

View attachment 91038

View attachment 91039

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how much to stretch

this is a very good thread , a lot of info. i think we are all on the same page. i to pull cloth along top and put staple at end to hold tight and in line
with feather strip. after feather strip is in place and tight, remove staple.
start pulling cloth form center of rail i pull only snug as to have no loose
cloth or wrinkles . pull straight in line with feather strip . about 12 inches
from end start to pull at a angle toward the center, not over kill just enuf
to take out some slack seems to make a better corner to me. at the ends
center of table i do the relief cut i think it makes for a cleaner and flat
look. but most of all what works best for you , and at the same time
do a good and neat job. take care john107 :anderson sc
 
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