thats called knowing your table, I actually like tables that are NOT level. Especially for one pocket.
I suppose you can arrange for that to happen, since you are a table mechanic.

thats called knowing your table, I actually like tables that are NOT level. Especially for one pocket.
Hey guys,
I've read through every article on this site for the most part and really appreciate a site like this and all that post. (long time reader 2nd time... postER) :grin-square:
I'm almost finished with my table refurb and the last thing I'm faced with is getting my feather strips the correct thickness and height. I got my block plane out and started trimming them down yesterday. Unfortunately the strips I bought are much too thick.. pretty much double the size needed. Got any tips on measuring how tight is too tight? I'm actually thinking of setting up a fence on my band saw and ripping these feather strips down to a more manageable size but don't want to take them too far down. Since they are just basswood I would imagine you could just force them in if you were close. My concern is damaging the rail by trying to force too big of a feather strip in. Sorry for the newbie question, first time around working on a table.
Measure the width of the feather strip dado groove, then subtract about 1/16" of an inch from that measurement, and that's about how thick the feather strip should be.Hey guys,
I've read through every article on this site for the most part and really appreciate a site like this and all that post. (long time reader 2nd time... postER) :grin-square:
I'm almost finished with my table refurb and the last thing I'm faced with is getting my feather strips the correct thickness and height. I got my block plane out and started trimming them down yesterday. Unfortunately the strips I bought are much too thick.. pretty much double the size needed. Got any tips on measuring how tight is too tight? I'm actually thinking of setting up a fence on my band saw and ripping these feather strips down to a more manageable size but don't want to take them too far down. Since they are just basswood I would imagine you could just force them in if you were close. My concern is damaging the rail by trying to force too big of a feather strip in. Sorry for the newbie question, first time around working on a table.
I appreciate the advice guys, I will get the feather strips trimmed down to size tonight hopefully.
I finished my pockets last night using Glen's plumbers strip method. I didn't have the cloth quite where it should be to get it in the pocket. After a little water and patience I was able to get them glued down clean. Not only does it look good, but its very forgiving for someone that maybe didn't do such a great job getting the cloth into the pockets.![]()
Good job, lets see some pictures when you're done![]()
Oh man... I don't know. I'm kind of embarrassed with my first attempt. Not a complete hack job but still not worth sharing. Actually 10x better than the last installer didbut it's pretty far bellow your standards... and mine actually. its a $280 eBay table, unknown manufacturer. rails were all beat up from the kids using it as a playground, slate screws broken off, rail bolts missing, pocket bolts missing!
I may post a few picks on the hack jobs thread...I have some zingers to share from the previous installers work! For example, nailed feather strips that had about 50 per rail, a table leg that had an insert in the hole where the lag bold should go that was just sitting there allowing the leg to just dangle if you lifted the frame up off the ground! The hole wasn't drilled all the way so they couldn't install the lag bolt!? Oh and the best was the pieces of tire inter tube they used for the pocket facings! I kind of liked the big thick hunks of sticky padding they stuck on the bottoms of the legs too! must have been so they could slide the table around on the floor!?
Oh man... I don't know. I'm kind of embarrassed with my first attempt. Not a complete hack job but still not worth sharing. Actually 10x better than the last installer didbut it's pretty far bellow your standards... and mine actually. its a $280 eBay table, unknown manufacturer. rails were all beat up from the kids using it as a playground, slate screws broken off, rail bolts missing, pocket bolts missing!
I may post a few picks on the hack jobs thread...I have some zingers to share from the previous installers work! For example, nailed feather strips that had about 50 per rail, a table leg that had an insert in the hole where the lag bold should go that was just sitting there allowing the leg to just dangle if you lifted the frame up off the ground! The hole wasn't drilled all the way so they couldn't install the lag bolt!? Oh and the best was the pieces of tire inter tube they used for the pocket facings! I kind of liked the big thick hunks of sticky padding they stuck on the bottoms of the legs too! must have been so they could slide the table around on the floor!?
Pat, this is your friend Brian's 8ft Olhausen table I set up yesterday here in Vegas.
I've you guys will notice, I don't have any staples holding back any folds or puckers waiting to happen in these pictures. And, when stapling the rails on an Olhausen that don't have the cloth dado relief for the cloth, place your staples further back, about 1/2" or so and when you bolt down the rails, you won't get that loose cloth sag between staples under the rails. I don't know where the pull the cloth as tight as you can when setting the feather strip came from, but I have found out over the years that pulling it tight as you can...makes it harder to get rid of the slack in the corner pockets. In these pictures you can see I don't have any problem with the Simonis 860 installed on these rails. The trick to installing good rail cloths is to keep it manageable in the pockets as far as I'm concerned.
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Pat, this is your friend Brian's 8ft Olhausen table I set up yesterday here in Vegas.
I've you guys will notice, I don't have any staples holding back any folds or puckers waiting to happen in these pictures. And, when stapling the rails on an Olhausen that don't have the cloth dado relief for the cloth, place your staples further back, about 1/2" or so and when you bolt down the rails, you won't get that loose cloth sag between staples under the rails. I don't know where the pull the cloth as tight as you can when setting the feather strip came from, but I have found out over the years that pulling it tight as you can...makes it harder to get rid of the slack in the corner pockets. In these pictures you can see I don't have any problem with the Simonis 860 installed on these rails. The trick to installing good rail cloths is to keep it manageable in the pockets as far as I'm concerned.
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RealKingCobra......it looks like you are "folding" the ends??? I thought we were not supposed to fold them. Confused.
Gary,
Side pockets get folded while the corners don't.
That answers why I had some much trouble on my 3rd cushion!!! The first 2 cushions had all corner pockets! Now I know it is ok to fold them.