That's correct for most spin, but most spin doesn't always = most draw. For longer draw shots it's often better to hit slightly above maximum draw (~80% of maximum) to get more speed - the speed keeps the backspin from rubbing off as quickly so there's more left on the CB at contact (i.e., more draw).Where do you hit the CB to get the most spin in a draw shot?
My understanding is the lower the better, is this correct?
Another advantage of aiming a little higher on long, fast draw shots is that if your large effort moves the tip lower than intended, you won't miscue.That's correct for most spin, but most spin doesn't always = most draw. For longer draw shots it's often better to hit slightly above maximum draw (~80% of maximum) to get more speed - the speed keeps the backspin from rubbing off as quickly so there's more left on the CB at contact (i.e., more draw).
Here's Dr. Dave's advice on the topic:
Cue Tip Height on CB - Billiards and Pool Principles, Techniques, Resources
How high or low should you contact the CB for different types of shots? See the illustration below from “How High or Low Should You Hit the Cue Ball?” (BD, September, 2011). To have the CB roll immediately (e.g., for a follow shot where the OB is close to the CB), the tip contact height […]billiards.colostate.edu
pj
chgo
[nitpick on]As low as I can while making sure the full tip is still hitting the cueball.
Why can't you hit it as low as possible and just move your arm faster?That's correct for most spin, but most spin doesn't always = most draw. For longer draw shots it's often better to hit slightly above maximum draw (~80% of maximum) to get more speed - the speed keeps the backspin from rubbing off as quickly so there's more left on the CB at contact (i.e., more draw).
Here's Dr. Dave's advice on the topic:
Cue Tip Height on CB - Billiards and Pool Principles, Techniques, Resources
How high or low should you contact the CB for different types of shots? See the illustration below from “How High or Low Should You Hit the Cue Ball?” (BD, September, 2011). To have the CB roll immediately (e.g., for a follow shot where the OB is close to the CB), the tip contact height […]billiards.colostate.edu
pj
chgo
At some point you can't move your arm any faster. A typical shot that this idea applies to is with the cue ball behind line, the object ball near the side cushion and the foot pocket and the goal is to draw back to the head cushion. For an arm speed in that range, and for typical clean but used cloth, and for a given stick speed, you get more draw to the cue ball by hitting slightly above max low.Why can't you hit it as low as possible and just move your arm faster?
I understand the logic. So then it all comes down to how far the player can get the cb to slide, correct?At some point you can't move your arm any faster. A typical shot that this idea applies to is with the cue ball behind line, the object ball near the side cushion and the foot pocket and the goal is to draw back to the head cushion. For an arm speed in that range, and for typical clean but used cloth, and for a given stick speed, you get more draw to the cue ball by hitting slightly above max low.
The important point here is that for a given stick speed and a long way to the object ball, as low as possible does not give you the most draw.
For a given stick speed, hitting farther off center reduces the speed of the cue ball leaving the tip. A slower ball has more time to lose its draw.
No, it's got nothing to do with the player. For long draw shots, if you shoot with a particular cue speed, you will draw the cue ball farther with a slightly higher hit. If you hit it harder, you will draw the cue ball farther and about that same higher hit will give you more draw than the lowest possible hit.I understand the logic. So then it all comes down to how far the player can get the cb to slide, correct?
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You can also elevate the cue, while hitting at the same spot as before, to get more draw.Where do you hit the CB to get the most spin in a draw shot?
My understanding is the lower the better, is this correct?
Be careful about hitting “the same spot” - the miscue limit moves up as you elevate.You can also elevate the cue, while hitting at the same spot as before, to get more draw.
yup. Another rough way to explain where i hit a draw shot is to set[nitpick on]
I assume you mean "the full tip is still covering the cueball" - of course the full tip can never hit the CB (not all at once).
[nitpick off]
pj
chgo
So if it's not the player, and it's more of a matter of physics, then it would be helpful to be able to say, at X mph, and at X distance, requiring the cb to draw back X distance, then 1/2 or 1 tip higher than the lowest acceptable strike point on the cb would be optimal.No, it's got nothing to do with the player. For long draw shots, if you shoot with a particular cue speed, you will draw the cue ball farther with a slightly higher hit. If you hit it harder, you will draw the cue ball farther and about that same higher hit will give you more draw than the lowest possible hit.
I was quite surprised when I discovered this during draw practice. I came up a little bit and suddenly the cue ball zipped right back. Entirely unexpected and counterintuitive. I was glad to see my observation confirmed both by equations and simulations.
When working on long draw shots I simply say, "Try hitting a little higher than for max draw and see what happens." It's easy. The student gets a feel for it, just as I have. You can't reduce it to formulas because students don't learn by formulas. The physics part helps you understand the phenomenon but it is not required in play. It lets you know that there is something real there rather than some voodoo pool that has no basis in reality.... how do you teach something like this? ...
Just go out and ply and learn ... pool is as much about feel and experience as setting exact numbers and expecting exact resultsSo if it's not the player, and it's more of a matter of physics, then it would be helpful to be able to say, at X mph, and at X distance, requiring the cb to draw back X distance, then 1/2 or 1 tip higher than the lowest acceptable strike point on the cb would be optimal.
Otherwise, how do you teach something like this? How have you determined for yourself when to hit higher than the lowest possible point? Because, we know that there are other types of shots where the lowest possible point will yield better results, right? So in a match, for instance, how do you know when you're not about to sell yourself short by hitting higher?
I think this is a common misconception. The amount of draw applied to the cue ball is not significantly changed by the cloth. The amount of draw the cue ball has when it gets to the object ball is greatly affected by the cloth.even the tightness of the cloth and wear affects the amount of draw applied. so expecting to hit a ball at such and such speed will not be exactly reproducible on all tables