which Predator sneaky pete?

bad english

bad english

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Which of the predator sneaky Pete’s do you like more? I like the look of the one with the wrap and the steel joints, but I would like to know if people like the hit of the wood joint more than the steel joint. I played with a lucasi with steel joints for a few years and really liked the hit and feel of that cue setup, but I didn’t know if it would be better in this case. And what shaft would you recommend for it the z2 or 314-2?
 
Pred sneakies

bad english said:
Which of the predator sneaky Pete’s do you like more? I like the look of the one with the wrap and the steel joints, but I would like to know if people like the hit of the wood joint more than the steel joint. I played with a lucasi with steel joints for a few years and really liked the hit and feel of that cue setup, but I didn’t know if it would be better in this case. And what shaft would you recommend for it the z2 or 314-2?
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I've owned and played with about fifteen different Predators. My favorite is the original SP (green trim) with the wood-to-wood joint. But I've always preferred wood-to-wood, Implex (MEUCCI ORIGINALS), or phenolic to stainless steel. Not that I can't play with the SS, I just like the softer hit a bit better.
I also prefer the original 314 shaft to any of the other Pred shafts.

Donny L
PBIA/ACS Instructor
Gainesville, Fl
 
I have the wood to wood and would not part with it,I have an original 314
and the 314-2 that I play with. I had Jimmy Reeves put a wrap on it a few years back. A great cue no doubt
 
bad english said:
Which of the predator sneaky Pete’s do you like more? And what shaft would you recommend for it the z2 or 314-2?
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I have two of the wood joint wrapless ones (red veneer). The Unliloc joint is actually set in hard plastic underneath the wood, unlike, I think, the earlier ones which were direct to wood. I really like them.

If you go with the wood joint, ask for the seller to match the shaft tone with the butt. One of mine matches very well, one the shaft is a good bit lighter. I didn't know to ask, but I believe they would have obliged as best they could if I had.

Z2 and 314-2 have quite different tapers. You will immediately feel the difference in your bridge hand. Any other differences in how they play are smaller than that, to me. My guess is, if you mainly shoot with an open bridge, you may prefer the z2. It's more likely if you shoot mainly with a closed bridge then you may like the 314-2 better. But you really need to try them.
 
When buying a cue, you should really go try them in person (maybe find people in your hall who have the same cues you are interested in and ask to test them out). If you don't have a local dealer, the Predator SP line are pretty hot selling cues, so I imagine you will come across people who have them. Also, some of the online vendors have pretty good return policies if you don't mind the hassle of shipping stuff back and forth in the case of a return.

That being said, assuming you can't test the cues out... For the joint, that is such a personal preference, you can't go wrong with wood or steel. If you already like the steel joint, you like the stiff hit, and that is what you are used to, stick with it on the Pred. If you prefer a softer/slower hit, the wood joint is fantastic and it really lets you feel what's going on, but if you aren't used to it then it will just feel weird until you get used to it.

For the shaft, a lot of players that I know who bought the Z ended-up going back to the 314. The thinner Z pivots around on your bridge more easily and if you don't have a clean stroke can easily hit the cue slightly off, which makes it hard to handle for most people. If you have a clean stroke, you may not notice this and may enjoy that you can hit higher and lower on the cue ball with the smaller tip.

If you're worried about the Z being too small, you can of course have a 314 turned down a bit make it thinner, and yet still a reasonable size. Or, if you just want a little more action, you can shape a 314 with a dime tip (if you are using nickel). There are a few ways to ride that horse.

If you just want to know what others have done, I spec'd a 4-point, 314, wood/wood, with no wrap for my friend (she already played with a Lucasi SP which is also wood/wood with no wrap). When she got it, I played around with it for a bit to see if it played as I expected... And it did not disappoint; that cue was sex on a stick.
 
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I also like the SS joint, I think it helps give it a little more forward weight. I am not sure but I think these shafts are smaller in diameter then 13mm and with out the stainless joint these cues seem "front lite".
Front lite is kinda like butt heavy but different.
 
FWIW, Seyberts are having a sale on Predator Sneakies. New 8 pointers priced lower than used 4 pointers in the FS/WTD section. Probably to clear room for the 3rd generation.
 
I have the (old?) one with the green veneers, leather wrap, and stainless steel joint paired with a Z shaft. I like the stiff hit of it, though I'm thinking of looking into an OB Classic Pro because I enjoy the hit of solid maple.

I didn't want to go full sneaky yet I didn't want it to look too ornate. I like a cue with some points, maple forearm, and a solid color wrap.
 
I think Predator went south when they got away from the piloted 5/16-14 joint & went to the uni-loc.
 
Funny thing, i just thought about that! and i see a problem with the wood to wood sneakys in comparison with the steel ones.

The problem is balance / weight distribution:
314 shafts or Z shafts are hollow at the front end, which gives them less weight in the front.
You can feel and mesure this on the overall balance of the cue!
Just try it and compare putting a 314 shaft and a normal shaft on the same cue. You will feel the difference and can also mesure it by finding the balance point. I tried this of course with a 314 shaft and a normal shaft both with an overall weight of 120g.

So if you dont like back-weighted cues like most people you will need a but that is quite forward balanced. A steel joint definitely helps here. Also wood to wood joints can be forward balanced if a big and long screw is used (like most radial pins).
But my feeling, from what i noticed playing a wood to wood predator sneaky the unilock wood to wood connections seems not to have either of it.
This is why IMHO you better go with a ss jointed predator sneaky.

Bought on the second hand marked they have a whole lot of value for their money and are great cues!

Best regards from good old germany,
Markus
 
Thanks guys for all the input on the cue it’s greatly appreciated. I started play around 3 years ago with a lucasi wood to wood sneaky, and really like to then moved to a steel joint cue and like it more the balance and hit was much more superior. And I think that in this case I will like the steel joint more. But thanks again with the help in my search for my new cue.
 
I prefer the balance of the steel jointed Pred Sneakies better than the wood to wood.

I am not a huge fan of the Uni Loc, but have never had any problems with them either.
 
nossi said:
Funny thing, i just thought about that! and i see a problem with the wood to wood sneakys in comparison with the steel ones.

The problem is balance / weight distribution:
314 shafts or Z shafts are hollow at the front end, which gives them less weight in the front.
You can feel and mesure this on the overall balance of the cue!
[...]I tried this of course with a 314 shaft and a normal shaft both with an overall weight of 120g.

Best regards from good old germany,
Markus
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Hi Markus,
So since you tried this, how far back did the balance point of the cue go, when you used the 314 shaft? I'm guessing around 1 cm?
 
I have and use an SP8RW wood-wood joint with 314-1 shaft. I took the weight bolt out and it is playing at 18.2oz.

To me the Steel to Steel joint made the cue nose heavy.
 
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