white dots in finish
- Thread starter gluton1
- Start date
Sounds like air bubbles to me can you post some pics of it.
You should NEVER WET SAND WOOD. If you do then the water will carry the sanding dirt into the pores of the wood. It will dry as a paste, that turns into those tiny white dots. If you wipe down the wood with mineral spirits just before the clear finish is sprayed on, the dots disappear. You are stuck with it now. The answer is who ever finished your cue, does not know how to finish wood...JER
I agree that that is the main reason for the specks. Other causes can be moisture in the compressed air and to much air pressure when spraying, trapping the air in the finish. All boils down to not enough experience with finishing.
Dick
I tend to agree with Dick on this one as being the most likely cause. Another thing that can cause it is laying too many coats on too fast and trapping solvent under the next coat. Trapped water or trapped solvent is the main cause if the problem is in the finish and not under the finish in the wood like the situation Jerry mentioned. The best fix is to have it stripped down and refinished. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
That is solvent lift. The only solution is to strip off the clear and start over. I have done this in the body shop before. I have also done this spraying cues too. You have to make sure that you get all the clear off otherwise it will come back. Sorry!
I have actually seen this condition before. Unfortunately, it was on some of my own work.
I agree with what Chris is saying about too much, too quick.
My take is that it yields a higher than normal concentration of urethane solids, which on a black background, appear white.
Recommended finish application per session, by most finish manufacturers, is 2 mil.(.002"). Any more than that and you're asking for problems. As is fate, we have all been under the gun to complete a project quicker than what would be prudent. Such is life.
A solution that I've found to prevent or at least reduce the occurrence of the white dots, is to use two filters btwn. the cup & the nozzle. The second one is extremely fine.
Since the bad news has already been born, I'll just concur.
Strip & refinish is the best option.
I agree with what Chris is saying about too much, too quick.
My take is that it yields a higher than normal concentration of urethane solids, which on a black background, appear white.
Recommended finish application per session, by most finish manufacturers, is 2 mil.(.002"). Any more than that and you're asking for problems. As is fate, we have all been under the gun to complete a project quicker than what would be prudent. Such is life.
A solution that I've found to prevent or at least reduce the occurrence of the white dots, is to use two filters btwn. the cup & the nozzle. The second one is extremely fine.
Since the bad news has already been born, I'll just concur.
Strip & refinish is the best option.
Here's a couple of pics of the butt where they mostly are. I thought the problem was with the clear so I stripped it off and lightly sanded but it seems to be in the sealer or something else. I know it wasn't there before because I've had this cue for the last ten years and I figure I would get it refinished before I let it go. Think I should sand it all the way to the bare wood and reseal and finish again? Thanks in advance
The pictures show the demon. That is definitly in the paint application. You will find that those are tiny holes, where the bubbles formed & poped. The bubbles are between the coats. I don't think that the problem is in the sealer, but the clear. The cue has to be sanded down past the pin holes & then cleaned & resprayed...JER
If the catilist is to old or has been open for a long time you will get white spots in the finish. It forms white crystles in the finish.
Now I'm having the same problem with the cue. I sanded it down to bare wood all the way to 1200 grit. Took a cheese cloth to it and then mixed up the 2 part epoxy at 1 to 1. I applied it with a brush then spun the lathe very slowly by hand for a few minutes to let it even out. After a few minutes i noticed that there were tiny air bubbles forminf inthe epoxy. Am I doing something wrong with the application of the epoxy? I have never had this problem before, now it's on 2 different cues that I applied it to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again
You should wipe the cue down, before applying your finish, with mineral sperits. Then apply your finish while the cue is still WET...JER
I never sand finer than 320 and usually just to 220. The epoxy has to have something to grip. What kind of epoxy are you using? It should dry slow enough that the air trapped when put on can escape. You can take a heat gun or a light and heat up the epoxy before you put it on to thin it some and use the same heat source after it's on to make thinner so that the bubbles can rise and dissipate easier.
Dick
I'm using the 2 part 20 min finish cure epoxy from cue components. I've used it on plenty of joint protectors now the problem is coming when I'm applying it to a cue. One cue was a poor refinish job and one is on a cue I just finished. Both are having the same problem. Maybe I'm putting it on to thick
dave sutton
Banned
some run a torch over the finish while still wet to pop all them bubbles.