Who can build!!

chris2669

chris2669

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
ok guys I am looking for any cue maker that can make me a cue! I have messaged a few people but it is a no go! I am looking for anyone that can do a solid piece of wood from joint to the rubber stopper. No wrap and no inlays. The shafts have to have a insert in them.....no metal on wood. I have been looking for my friend and have had no luck yet.

If anyone is interested please let me know!

thanks

chris
 
chris2669 said:
ok guys I am looking for any cue maker that can make me a cue! I have messaged a few people but it is a no go! I am looking for anyone that can do a solid piece of wood from joint to the rubber stopper. No wrap and no inlays. The shafts have to have a insert in them.....no metal on wood. I have been looking for my friend and have had no luck yet.

If anyone is interested please let me know!

thanks

chris
Click to expand...

This type of designed cue would be, in my opinion, the easiest cue to build but would also be the most prone to warp. I may be wrong but I wouldn't want to chance it myself.

Dick
 
chris2669 said:
ok guys I am looking for any cue maker that can make me a cue! I have messaged a few people but it is a no go! I am looking for anyone that can do a solid piece of wood from joint to the rubber stopper. No wrap and no inlays. The shafts have to have a insert in them.....no metal on wood. I have been looking for my friend and have had no luck yet.

If anyone is interested please let me know!

thanks

chris
Click to expand...


I've made lots of Qs just like this out of Bacote, but I wouldn't trust any other wood, not to warp. PM me ...JER
 
to dickie, jer & michael

i'm wondering why a single 29" piece of wood will tend to warp
anymore than two 12" pieces and a buttsleeve?
and would coring the bottom end help reduce that risk?
 
stix4sale said:
i'm wondering why a single 29" piece of wood will tend to warp
anymore than two 12" pieces and a buttsleeve?
and would coring the bottom end help reduce that risk?
Click to expand...


20 yrs ago,when I 1st started, I made a lot of this kind of Q. Mostly trying to figure out a taper that I liked. The ones made out of bacote, were the ones that never warped. The Birdseye & Curly Maple Qs didn't fare too well. I made some out of Mahogany & walnut, but they were vere light weight & I never saw them again. In fact I just had a Bacote in the shop for a tip repair, that I made in 1989. It's still straight...JER
 
stix4sale said:
i'm wondering why a single 29" piece of wood will tend to warp
anymore than two 12" pieces and a buttsleeve?
and would coring the bottom end help reduce that risk?
Click to expand...

I've done some one piece butts, coring them from both ends, so that they cores butted up to each other. Works real well.
 
stix4sale said:
i'm wondering why a single 29" piece of wood will tend to warp
anymore than two 12" pieces and a buttsleeve?
and would coring the bottom end help reduce that risk?
Click to expand...
It's not the bottom part that warps.
It's mostly around 13 inches from the joint.
That's why fullsplice are so stable. The fork is around that area.
The longer the one-piece wood is, the more it CAN move.
Frankly, I don't see any reason to build one in one piece.
A sneaky or two piece with no metal studs are better imo.
 
JoeyInCali said:
It's not the bottom part that warps.
It's mostly around 13 inches from the joint.
That's why fullsplice are so stable. The fork is around that area.
The longer the one-piece wood is, the more it CAN move.
Frankly, I don't see any reason to build one in one piece.
A sneaky or two piece with no metal studs are better imo.
Click to expand...


I prefer to cut the blank above & below the handle area. Then core from the bottom & top of the handle. When done you have a stronger butt that looks like it's one piece. It's also easier to control the weight that way...JER
 
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