why are full splice points always short?

[cueman]

I don't normally make comments however when it comes to full splices I'm somewhat passionate.
I don't make short splices, never have. I make a full splice that has an extra splice under the wrap.
This allows me to control the weight and the balance. Simply put, a true full splice consists of the prongs
being cut from the handle wood. The length has nothing to do with the term full splice, whether you run the wood
all the way to the butt or end it in the handle, the technique is still the same. Hope to see some of you guys at VF.

Joel Hercek

Glad to see you posting here Joel. I like making full splice cues also, but have not gotten as advanced on it as you. I used to buy my blanks from Burton and probably still would if he was still around. My booth is L17 if you want to stop by and visit.

 

[manwon]

The one dated 2007/07/07 is almost identical to what Burton Spain did in his last days. The v-points go right over the top of the butterfly splice instead of up in front of it. Thanks for posting the great pictures.

That cue is a second Catalog Adam Cues form around 1974, it is some really beautiful workmanship. It is a shame that they are not apprecaited for the quality they really are.

Thanks Chris

 

[pdcue]

I don't normally make comments however when it comes to full splices I'm somewhat passionate.
I don't make short splices, never have. I make a full splice that has an extra splice under the wrap.
This allows me to control the weight and the balance. Simply put, a true full splice consists of the prongs
being cut from the handle wood. The length has nothing to do with the term full splice, whether you run the wood
all the way to the butt or end it in the handle, the technique is still the same. Hope to see some of you guys at VF.

Joel Hercek

Termenology - I prefer the term true splice, as you point out, your
cues are actually spliced.

Some spliced butts are 'full length', some aren't.

What most people refer to as a 'half-splice' is actually a lamination,
not a splice at all.

IMHO - using ONE term for spliced cues would eleminate all the
confusion over full splice, 1/2 splice, short splice, etc.

Just don't get me started on butterflies.

Dale

 

[pdcue]

anyone capable of making a full splice with 15" points from bottom to top?

That would be everyone who is capable of making a full spliced butt.

The hard truth is that the look you so desire is very much not
desired by most cue buyers/cuemakers.

Dale

 

[spliced]

it only looks right if the cue is to have a wrap.

 

[jayman]

here is an oldie with pretty long points. you real dont see too many realy long ones on the older ones.

 

[spliced]

thanx for posting that pic, thats what im talkin about! long points that merge together right at the wrap area. Is this a full splice?

 

[jayman]

thanx for posting that pic, thats what im talkin about! long points that merge together right at the wrap area. Is this a full splice?

Yes it is.

 

[johnf_34]

post removed....

 

[pdcue]

it only looks right if the cue is to have a wrap.

You don't seem to actually want an answer to your question,
so I'm guessing it's a Dr Phil question.

The truth is out there - the overwhelming majority of people
don't want cues with points that long - wrapped, unwrapped,
overwrapped, or rewrapped.

Dale

 

[spliced]

You don't seem to actually want an answer to your question

Chris Hightower answered my question at the beginning of this thread. Thanks Chris.

 

[Cuemaster98]

How come points on a full splice cue are always so short? On titlists, as well as current full splices made by prather, davis, and others, the points always end up only being 6-7" long from wrap to tip, as opposed to most short splices with points around 9/10". Is it difficult to get them longer on a full splice or something?

titlist example:

http://forums.azbilliards.com//attachment.php?attachmentid=87127&d=1233423311

Not harder...just preference. I think most of the short length points were meant to be warpless cue but people prefer to have wrap. Here's pics of three different specification.

The thuya burl full splice...probably one of the first few ever done...has very short point...(Don't mind it as the thuya burl is amazing..also this is made for me by John Davis) and the other two are my standard specification. The 4 points was designed so that it can be used as wrapless or with wrap. The 8 points was spliced half way since the short points needs to be there when turned down.

Regards,
Duc.

 

[Cuemaster98]

Also, I don't understand why some people prefer to place their wrap so high up on a full splice cue. You can't tell if the cue is full splice....here's how I think it should be done so that it's clearly show the blank as a full splice blank, IMO This is an SRC that was converted by Carolina Cues...these guy did a great job.