Why have the rake hanging underneath the table?

P

PocketPoint

Banned
There is NOTHING more aggrivating than having to duck under the table to see if the rake is there. And then having to tangle with the hooks to try and get the rake out. And then messing around trying to put it back.

I have seen some setups on Brunswicks where it's more like a "tray" and is easier than the ones with hooks.

But let's get real, stand the rake up against the wall. And if you don't like that, then put it on the ground underneath the table.
 
When I had my table installed, the guys asked which side I wanted the hooks. I told them not to install it, because I won't use it. They asked me where I was going to put the granny stick then... I told them on the wall... They actually looked a little shocked. Like I broke some unwritten law or something! I also don't have a spot dot on my cloth either.
 
Really??? :confused:

The only tables where I've played that have the bridges under the table, I've found that I really like them there. Maybe it's the placement on these tables versus what you've experienced.

But if I'm playing and need a bridge, it's easier for me to reach under the table and grab it, versus having to get through whoever is hanging around the tables and chairs near the wall to get one from there.

Why would it be easier to get it off the floor than from the hooks under the table? I don't even have the back issues that some have and I find it far easier to grab them from the hooks than to have to go all the way to the floor.

Bad night or something?
 
I try to avoid the rake at all costs, so much that I will shoot left handed instead if not too awkward. It is annoying though to lean down and the rake is not even there. Then it's not on the other side either. Or on any of the tables near me. Then inevitably, when I finally find one, it's the really tall white plastic one that looks like a tooth! I REALLY hate that rake.

If I really need to use one, I'll search the whole room to find a moose-head bridge...
 
Guess I haven't gotten indoctrinated into the pool world properly yet, but I tend to try and see where the bridge is before I start playing, especially if it's an important (to me) match.

I also bought my own moosehead so I could have a bridge nearby for those rooms where there's about 3 bridges and 20 tables. Ok, maybe I exagerrated a little, I think it's 5 bridges for 20 tables! :grin:

And I suppose I'm a bit spoiled. The main place that I play has a bridge on hooks under each side of every table, so we don't have to travel far to get one, which is nice. They wouldn't fit legthwise under our tables, unless you laid them diagonally, and we have tile floors so they'd be getting kicked around and stepped on and such.

Oh well, yet another thing for me to try and understand about this pool world of ours.
 
Tiger Products' Corona leather bridge head

Simple solution: bring your own bridge head. Personally, I don't like the pieces-of-crap bridges in most pool rooms. They're usually moosehead bridges that've seen better days, scuffed-up, blistered, and perhaps some of the "horns" busted off.

Yeah, I'm going to try sliding my cue through that thing! May as well stand a broken bottle on the table and use that as a bridge.

I like to use a leather bridge, like the Tiger Products Corona bridge:

http://www.tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16187&cat=248&page=1
t_16187.jpg

It easily fits in the pocket of your cue case, and also pops on to any cue (e.g. your break cue, or a house cue). And the great thing is that it will never scratch or "flatten" any area of your cue's shaft wood like dinged-up plastic bridgeheads do.

I play a lot of straight pool, so a good stable bridge that you can depend on is a mandatory tool to have. And, considering where you store it when in use -- by your cues / cue case, of course!

Hope this helps!
-Sean
 
Seriously? Rake Placement?! :rotflmao1:

You know what else the most annoying thing in the world is?... How cue makers don't all use uni-lock joints. That extra 5-10 seconds I have to spend putting my cue together really chaps my hide! :rolleyes:

If all the stupid cue makers and room owners out there (who, I'm sure haven't ever tried any new or different ideas before) would apply a bit of logic and fix these two things, the game would be PERFECT!

Shouldn't every pool player that has a case, have a bridge head in that case? I know they are pricey, but the $3 is worth it. Put it on your break cue or a house cue, then put that on the wall. Then you have actually done something for yourself to ensure that you won't have to fuss with the "annoying hooks." This idea may sound crazy for some because it requires you to be proactive and do something, as opposed to waiting for someone else to fix your gripe for you, but I've tried it... and it works. :grin:

Rake Placement... LOL
 
I'd be more worried about not being able to find one. I've never had a problem with the bridge being under the table. I'd rather it was under the table on hooks rather than having to stoop all the way to the floor to pick it up.
I have, to me, much more serious considerations.
 
Yeah

Keeping the rake on the hooks under the table aggravates me sometimes too. When I'm playing (straight pool usually), I don't like to interrupt my vision of the table and my thought process to look for a bridge or look under the table to retrieve it. After I use it the first time I usually set it on a table next to me that's not being used, so I know where it is when I need it. And I do have a new bridgehead in my case as Sean mentioned for rooms that don't provide a bridge that may damage a shaft.

Ron F
 
Life must be really good if the biggest agrivation in life is having to take the bridge off the hooks when you need it.
Hire a girl to travel to the pool room with you and have her hold the bridge for you until you need it. That way, you don't even have to walk over to the wall. She can deliver it to you.

Steve
 
sfleinen said:
Simple solution: bring your own bridge head. Personally, I don't like the pieces-of-crap bridges in most pool rooms. They're usually moosehead bridges that've seen better days, scuffed-up, blistered, and perhaps some of the "horns" busted off.

Yeah, I'm going to try sliding my cue through that thing! May as well stand a broken bottle on the table and use that as a bridge.

I like to use a leather bridge, like the Tiger Products Corona bridge:


It easily fits in the pocket of your cue case, and also pops on to any cue (e.g. your break cue, or a house cue). And the great thing is that it will never scratch or "flatten" any area of your cue's shaft wood like dinged-up plastic bridgeheads do.

I play a lot of straight pool, so a good stable bridge that you can depend on is a mandatory tool to have. And, considering where you store it when in use -- by your cues / cue case, of course!

Hope this helps!
-Sean
Click to expand...


Those are nice and I had one for a while.......when Joel Weinstock developed his Omni Bridge i switched to that and love the dam thing......i sell a handful of them a month at the local pool halls and have always had good reviews of it.......smooth, fluid and very stable...........just keep it in the bag and pop it on the end of the shaft just like the leather one by tiger......if anyone would ever like one they are reasonably priced and last a lifetime just PM me.........

as far as bridges being on the hook on the table or underneath on the floor.....WHO CARES lol..........most people don't even know how to use a bridge much less want to use it.

sorry for sounding like a sales pitch lol
-Grey Ghost-
 

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Rake

Some rooms think rakes are an unnecessary luxury and they are either non existent or falling apart.
The moose heads are terrible to me and the cheap metal ones nick your shafts.
I have been wanting to make one of my own for a while and now is a great time.
Are there any restrictions etc anyone knows of for what the bridge can be?
 
Table maintenance and care is actually more aggravating. First and foremost for all players above everything else in pool, respect the table. If there are hooks for the rake and the rack, then use them and deal with the circumstances. It's way more frustrating watching some putz toss the rake and the rack on the ground because they feel they are too entitled to have to use the equipment properly, including the hooks under the table.

This includes placing the chalk face down on the rail. Knock it off. Respect the table.
 
book collector said:
Some rooms think rakes are an unnecessary luxury and they are either non existent or falling apart.
The moose heads are terrible to me and the cheap metal ones nick your shafts.
I have been wanting to make one of my own for a while and now is a great time.
Are there any restrictions etc anyone knows of for what the bridge can be?
Click to expand...

Judging by the many variations of bridges I've seen advertised, no restrictions. I just carry a Moosehead...but I did spend some time sanding it smooth in the grooves...:grin:
 
I'll bet you'd go right off the deep end at a local hall here .... they have two rests at each table, one hanging under each side ! Saves going to the other side to grab the rest, which is nice ... .imo :grin-square:

Dave
 
DaveK said:
I'll bet you'd go right off the deep end at a local hall here .... they have two rests at each table, one hanging under each side ! Saves going to the other side to grab the rest, which is nice ... .imo :grin-square:

Dave
Click to expand...

I probably would go off the deep end, I don't even know what a "rest" is lol.
 
I quit using bridges years ago, once I turned andibex.... andribeck.... :scratchhead: learned how to shoot with both hands.
 
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