Why is the threads coming out of my Shaft?

jlrowe

jlrowe

Billiards,Boxing & Babes
Silver Member
Kind of unusual never had this to happen. It is radial pin and the threads on one side is almost completely gone. smooth as can be almost like its been drilled and ready to be tapped. Is this due to it being a laminated shaft? Because i have had regular shafts with radial and its never happened. Can this be drilled out and a phenolic insert installed? it is like a brand new shaft in excellent condition.
Thanks JL Rowe
Here Is The Pic http://www.customcuebroker.com/100_3207.JPG
 
Last edited:
Yes you can have an insert put in the shaft .
I repair shafts like that. With the same inserts that Tiger uses.
If you would like me to fix that for you just let me know ?
 
Hey Shawn I sent you a PM.
Thanks JL Rowe
 
Last edited:
That is very odd, and makes me wonder if there wasn't some sort of split or crack in the wood. I've never seen radial threads fail like that, and certainly not if it's still fairly new.
If you bought it from a cuemaker, they will probably make it right for free.
 
I've seen it happen on 3 cushion cues mostly ... caused by not mating the faces of the shaft and butt at the joint ... Not screwed together , so the faces aren't taking the force of a hit , the threads are and that's what happens ... No big deal to fix as Shawn indicated , a phenolic insert would do well ...:cool:
 
Kind of makes sense that it is caused by threads taking force of hit instead of face. would this be caused by pin bottoming out in shaft just slightly or how the shaft was threaded?
 
unless you possibly pulled the the pin out while taking the cue apart and the pin wasnt quite unscrewed all the way tearing out the threads.

either way a phenolic insert will fix it. i kninda like inserts better anyway
 
I've had only one shaft ever stripped out .. and it was Predator 314 shaft (most likely from a blank) that was threaded for radial pin.

In my case, I needed a shaft for 5/16x16 ACME thread so had a local cue maker insert the brass insert into the shaft.
 
If it is a flat laminated shaft it could be that one layer came unglued and that is why the threads are gone on that one side. Put a phenolic insert in and retap it.
 
Thanks Chris, It is a flat laminated shaft. I will try to post a pic of it tonight.
 
..

My guess is that the joint is not aligned properly, causing one side to mate and the other to have a small, hardly discernable gap. I had a filipino cue do this to an insert. (steel vs. brass)
jlrowe said:
Kind of unusual never had this to happen. It is radial pin and the threads on one side is almost completely gone. smooth as can be almost like its been drilled and ready to be tapped. Is this due to it being a laminated shaft? Because i have had regular shafts with radial and its never happened. Can this be drilled out and a phenolic insert installed? it is like a brand new shaft in excellent condition.
Thanks JL Rowe
Click to expand...
 
If I was working on my car and I found a bolt that looked like a radial pin I'd quit driving the car.
Example for the mechanics out there:
Picture your lower control arm with threads looking like the radial pin.

Why would anybody build a screw that starts it's life looking like a striped bolt?
Just my opinion but Radials don't make sense to me.

I base my opinion on 20 years of auto body experience. I'd never let a car go out with a striped bolt. I'd never build a cue with a striped bolt!
"IMO"
 
maybe the maqker bored out the fisrt .250 or so. i dont know why ppl do that. i knock off the edge thats about it. that looks too clean to be torn out or striped
 
Graciocues said:
If I was working on my car and I found a bolt that looked like a radial pin I'd quit driving the car.
Example for the mechanics out there:
Picture your lower control arm with threads looking like the radial pin.

Why would anybody build a screw that starts it's life looking like a striped bolt?
Just my opinion but Radials don't make sense to me.

I base my opinion on 20 years of auto body experience. I'd never let a car go out with a striped bolt. I'd never build a cue with a striped bolt!
"IMO"
Click to expand...
My main player has a radial pin. If it's used in surgery to hold bones and such together I think I can trust it to hold my shaft on. Done properly the radial has a large contact area of the threads, stripping is caused by many things. Poor quality woods, poor construction technique, or in this case I would lean to the layer of wood coming loose as you can see glue where there was threads. BTW that is one rough surface on that shaft.
 
1/4" Counterbore

dave sutton said:
maybe the maqker bored out the fisrt .250 or so. i dont know why ppl do that. i knock off the edge thats about it. that looks too clean to be torn out or striped
Click to expand...

The 1st time I ever saw a Radial pin used in a cue, it was a JossWest..
The Pin had about a 3/16" of the unthreaded shank of the pin above the Joint's Flat Face. I would have to counterbore all my protectors for this.
I used to do this and sometimes still do this for my caps because some cues have the shoulder protruding above the Joint Face.
 
JoeyInCali said:
It looks like he overdrilled the hole and filled it up with epoxy.
Click to expand...

JoeyInCali +1.
Unsuccessful repair of unsuccessful threads.
Recently I repaired shaft with precisely such defect.
It is necessary to drill and bore hole in diameter of 12.5-13.5 mm and depth of 45-50 mm, then to glue core and next day to make new thread like on new shaft.
 
I know it's overkill but I drill and thread the shaft and thread the phenolic core. Install with 2 ton epoxy drill then bore hole and tap.
It's not going to come out unless they distroy the shaft.

There are plenty of outstanding cue makers and repair people on this forum that can do the job for you.
The damage is done get it repaired and move on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top