Why tables lose their level?

[dougster26]

I'm not a mechanic ... but I have an 8-inch Sterrett. A carpenters level will not do the job! Besides, it'll impress your friends when they complain that your tables are not level and you say, "Excuse me while I whup this out!"

A new 8-inch Sterrett can be had for ~$85 off of eBay. If you have a GCIII I would think you could afford one but times are hard.

I've developed my own progression for using it that works for me (depends on the type of table). So as far as placement for a GCIII goes I'll let a mechanic cover that question.

I had heard that a carpenter's level wouldn't do the job properly.

Sounds like a Sterrett level would be a good investment.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Club Billiards]

You should be fine lifting by the frame like that. That's better than lifting the weight of the table from the rails or other non-load bearing parts.

(Not sure if I'm a "real" mechanic) :wink:

 

[Crash]

(Not sure if I'm a "real" mechanic) :wink:

There are 3 types who come to this section of AZB: 1) I am not a mechanic or DIYers, 2) people who call themselves mechanics or installers, and 3) real mechanics of which there are precious few.

 

[realkingcobra]

This may sound crazy, but when I adjust the legs on my GC3, I kneel down under the table with my hands around the foot I want to adjust and use my back to raise the table. Just enough to reduce the friction of the foot I want to adjust and turn in quarter turn increments. Of course my back is pushing up on the frame, not the decorative skirting. I wouldn't know where to try and jack this thing up from...

I'm not telling anyone to do this, I'm not a mechanic. It's just something I've done to be able to do minor tweaks on my table. Maybe a mechanic might get a laugh out of it and tell me I'm doing more harm than good? As for the level, if you use a machinist level once, you can't imagine doing a table without one afterwards.

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I do it thev same way:grin:

 

[islandracer]

Glen, your back is also strong like bull! Glad this method got a few nods of approval from "real mechanics".

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[chevybob20]

Yeah I think some folks would actually be a little surprised at how much wood can swell and shrink, and how fast. A word to the wise: When you're working with wood, you're working with water.

Mr. Bond is correct. Here is a short but good article on wood moisture content and it's subsequent movement.
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm

My previous table was a home style Olhausen. It was solid oak except for the LVL support beams. I would have to insert a shim in the winter under one leg and remove it in the summer.

 

[The_Marvelous]

if i've understood your statement correctly, it sounds like you're saggin in the middle. which is not an unusual or particularly difficult issue to deal with.

pain in the arse? yes.

Would you mind sharing how will you do this without the chances of popping the slate? Hope wouldn't be so hard because my table have sag in the middle. Can i support the joined slate with a wood and jack it up and shimmed?

 

[PoolTableTailor]

Shim placement is key

I keep running into tables that have all the slates shimmed up about 1/2 inch. This causes pressure points on the frame of the table exploiting weaknesses in the wood. I recommend letting the slate lay on the frame and only shimming were necessary. Also a common mistake is shim placement and shimming under legs. The placement of your shim should be placed on a support member as close to the frame as possible. If placed on a cross member on the outer part of the frame like at the edge of the slate, that cross member will eventually sag. And likewise shimming in the middle of the cross member will make it bow.
Also time and time again i will find shims under one leg of a table due to the floor being uneven. When i reassemble that table on a level surface the shimmed leg always causes leveling conflicts. I would assume after time that leg would settle back to it original position causing the table to require leveling.

 

[realkingcobra]

I keep running into tables that have all the slates shimmed up about 1/2 inch. This causes pressure points on the frame of the table exploiting weaknesses in the wood. I recommend letting the slate lay on the frame and only shimming were necessary. Also a common mistake is shim placement and shimming under legs. The placement of your shim should be placed on a support member as close to the frame as possible. If placed on a cross member on the outer part of the frame like at the edge of the slate, that cross member will eventually sag. And likewise shimming in the middle of the cross member will make it bow.
Also time and time again i will find shims under one leg of a table due to the floor being uneven. When i reassemble that table on a level surface the shimmed leg always causes leveling conflicts. I would assume after time that leg would settle back to it original position causing the table to require leveling.

When installers only work to level the slate on the frame of the table, but don't bother to first level the frame, that's what happens

 

[Mr. Bond]

Would you mind sharing how will you do this without the chances of popping the slate? Hope wouldn't be so hard because my table have sag in the middle. Can i support the joined slate with a wood and jack it up and shimmed?

this is hard to answer without actually seeing your particular table.

what kind/model of table?