you know if mika told me he thought a change like tip diameter could improve my game i think i'd give it a shot. there's always the chance that he's just trying to sell you a shaft but f*ck it. i'd give it a shot
Why turning down original cuemaker shafts....
- Thread starter Guerra Cues
- Start date
you know if mika told me he thought a change like tip diameter could improve my game i think i'd give it a shot. there's always the chance that he's just trying to sell you a shaft but f*ck it. i'd give it a shot
Shafts
I like to play with cues made to the cuebuilder's standard dimensions & taper.
Typically cues with a longer pro-taper, 12.75 to 13.00.
Some cuebuilder's are known for their taper and cue dimensions, and since I don't know how to turn on a lathe, I leave it up to them.
Either I like the cue or I don't.
When i'm buying vintage cues just to collect, it is what it is.
Collecting newer cues I want full shafts for sure with the cuemaker's standard dimensions & taper.
For the cue flippers, the cue must have 13.00 shafts, "mint", "never chalked", but it has to "hit a ton" and be a "monster player".
I like to play with cues made to the cuebuilder's standard dimensions & taper.
Typically cues with a longer pro-taper, 12.75 to 13.00.
Some cuebuilder's are known for their taper and cue dimensions, and since I don't know how to turn on a lathe, I leave it up to them.
Either I like the cue or I don't.
When i'm buying vintage cues just to collect, it is what it is.
Collecting newer cues I want full shafts for sure with the cuemaker's standard dimensions & taper.
For the cue flippers, the cue must have 13.00 shafts, "mint", "never chalked", but it has to "hit a ton" and be a "monster player".
Ernie Gutierrez (Gina cue for those who don't know) takes 10 years to complete a shaft for one of his cues. He makes a turn and puts the shaft away and then comes back and makes another turn. He said he could complete a shaft in his shop with the actual work time being 20 to 30 minutes with his machines set up to do each operation, but he lets the wood rest between operations, 10 years to finish a shaft. How could you put one of his shafts in a lathe and cut it down after he took so much time getting it to his specs.
I agree with you about turning down cue makers original shafts. If I see a nice custom cue and the shafts have been turned down to a small diameter I lose interest fast.
James
the best chuckles
I chuckled out loud because the comment not only was funny but had that ring of great truth.
One day when I am feeling silly I'm going to fire up my lathe and build a cue out of all brass and aluminum. It may be a little heavy but I guarantee it will give new meaning to "monster hitter" and "hits a ton"! :grin:
Hu
I chuckled out loud because the comment not only was funny but had that ring of great truth.
One day when I am feeling silly I'm going to fire up my lathe and build a cue out of all brass and aluminum. It may be a little heavy but I guarantee it will give new meaning to "monster hitter" and "hits a ton"! :grin:
Hu
Here's what I mean. If you go to a GOOD cuemaker, he will build a cue to your specs. if you shave the shaft, you have just taken of x amount of weight from the front. this shifts the balance of the cue. Also the shaft wood itself has been compromised because it was selected for it's density/weight to fit your cue to match your specs.
An informed buyer picks a cuemaker based on realiability, cosmetics, and playability. Most good cuemakers have a definite idea about what they want in their cues hit. That is why a Cog(Joey Gold), a Joss West, a Black, a Tad all have very unique hits. If you alter the shaft you just changed the hit. What's the point. That's like asking Beyonce to sing a song like Christopher Walken.
Mika is right........
I used to like playing with 13mm all the time. That was when I was playing on the bar box with cue ball that were heavier. Then a few years back from sanding on the shaft it got smaller and smaller.
I bought a new shaft and I had trouble moving the cue ball around the way I was before with the old shaft. And I was probably playing the best pool of my life with the old shaft.
Just recently I did the same thing. The shaft I am using is down to almost 12.5. I started using a 13mm. I just had to work too hard to move the cue ball around. After experimenting some more I found that between 12.5 and 12.8 works for me and how far back it is tapered is huge also.
Seeing is believing. Sometimes us pool players are kind of stubborn and we keep trying to do something with something and it would be so much easier if we could just listen or see what would work the best.
Just like the way I aim. I see this mentallity all the time. Seeing is beleiving but until it hits you right in the face and even then sometimes it is hard to believe.
With the shaft I won't even mess around no more. 12.7 is how I have them made with a special taper. Why make the game any harder than it is.
Mika is right and why wouldn't he be.
HE"S WINNING FOR CRYING OUT LOUD.
I used to like playing with 13mm all the time. That was when I was playing on the bar box with cue ball that were heavier. Then a few years back from sanding on the shaft it got smaller and smaller.
I bought a new shaft and I had trouble moving the cue ball around the way I was before with the old shaft. And I was probably playing the best pool of my life with the old shaft.
Just recently I did the same thing. The shaft I am using is down to almost 12.5. I started using a 13mm. I just had to work too hard to move the cue ball around. After experimenting some more I found that between 12.5 and 12.8 works for me and how far back it is tapered is huge also.
Seeing is believing. Sometimes us pool players are kind of stubborn and we keep trying to do something with something and it would be so much easier if we could just listen or see what would work the best.
Just like the way I aim. I see this mentallity all the time. Seeing is beleiving but until it hits you right in the face and even then sometimes it is hard to believe.
With the shaft I won't even mess around no more. 12.7 is how I have them made with a special taper. Why make the game any harder than it is.
Mika is right and why wouldn't he be.
HE"S WINNING FOR CRYING OUT LOUD.
there are two things I always look for in a cue, no matter what now.
1. can I play with it.
2. can I turn it
If I can't play with it... I won't buy it. If I do buy it to see if I can play with it, I won't buy it if I can't turn it. I like to try a lot of differnt things. I get bored with the same ole same ole.. So, instead of changing a cue makers design, I will just look for something differnt in that desgn. But, if I can't play with it or don't like it... I know that I can flip it and be okay.
It's just me being safe either way.
1. can I play with it.
2. can I turn it
If I can't play with it... I won't buy it. If I do buy it to see if I can play with it, I won't buy it if I can't turn it. I like to try a lot of differnt things. I get bored with the same ole same ole.. So, instead of changing a cue makers design, I will just look for something differnt in that desgn. But, if I can't play with it or don't like it... I know that I can flip it and be okay.
It's just me being safe either way.
Aluminum Cue
I recommend aluminum points into a brass forearm.
Then you can core it with to keep the weight down.
I would also use re-bar for the shafts so the cue feels forward weighted.
I recommend aluminum points into a brass forearm.
Then you can core it with to keep the weight down.
I would also use re-bar for the shafts so the cue feels forward weighted.
416 stainless
Sounds good except for the rebar. This is gonna be a classy cue, nothing less than 416 stainless. Nice thing I have some around already bored and ready to core 6mm maybe just fill it with foam so it will be a low deflection shaft, at least compared to a solid 416 shaft!
Hu
Sounds good except for the rebar. This is gonna be a classy cue, nothing less than 416 stainless. Nice thing I have some around already bored and ready to core 6mm maybe just fill it with foam so it will be a low deflection shaft, at least compared to a solid 416 shaft!
Hu
Shaft
You will get more response with 316 stainless shafts.
More magnesium and nickel content, higher tensil strength.
You will get more response with 316 stainless shafts.
More magnesium and nickel content, higher tensil strength.
6ppc
Naah, 6PPC. A very small very high pressure round the way we use it. Cartridge is about the size of your little finger and shoots a 65 grain bullet up to 3600FPS. When you get up to 3600FPS or better pressures are around 70,000PSI or so and you can wear out a barrel in less than a thousand rounds. I did serious damage to one in less than 200 rounds fired one day at a major event. That is why my shaft blank is already cored at 6mm. Not sure of the benefits of the rifling in the core but taking a lesson from Microsoft, it's a feature!
Since the blank never was a cue shaft before I'm not retapering and perhaps spoiling somebody else's work and since I'm recycling it's even a green project!
Hu
Naah, 6PPC. A very small very high pressure round the way we use it. Cartridge is about the size of your little finger and shoots a 65 grain bullet up to 3600FPS. When you get up to 3600FPS or better pressures are around 70,000PSI or so and you can wear out a barrel in less than a thousand rounds. I did serious damage to one in less than 200 rounds fired one day at a major event. That is why my shaft blank is already cored at 6mm. Not sure of the benefits of the rifling in the core but taking a lesson from Microsoft, it's a feature!
Since the blank never was a cue shaft before I'm not retapering and perhaps spoiling somebody else's work and since I'm recycling it's even a green project!
Hu