Willie Hoppe Titliest Butt

stlerdave

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If I find a Hoppe cue just the butt only is it a good buy for $100. When a conversion is done do they use original shaft of just butt.
 
Not enough info.

Like saying if I find a corvette for $15k, is it a good deal?

Might be, might not be.

The maker of the cue will decide what is used (and if it can be used), in my experience, the handle to joint is usually the part that is used...new shafts and buttpieces, for the most part.
 
If you are going to do a conversion, seems to me that the butt is the important part. Most every conversion has new shafts made for it.
Look for a butt section with nice bright veneers, even points and if possible the ivory Hoppe ring. From what I have seen, John Showman does really nice conversions on these cues. Good luck.
 
Okay....the trick is to find a one piece Titlist. Most still have enough 'meat' left on the bone for conversion. The two piece Titlists have already been turned down with specs closer to today's standards...so not much to work with if there is an issue.

Lisa
 
hoppe.jpg


lable.jpg

sorry here are some pics
 
If you have any calipers, take a few measurements and that will help to determine if it's a good deal. Like another poster said, if it's turned down too far already you may not have much to play with.

If you don't want it then I will take first spot in line to buy it from you, depending on the caliper measurements.
 
The guy played with it til he broke the second shaft, he f'n broke two shafts that it came with.
 
In my opinion if the butt is straight you can't go wrong. Even if you just have it refinished and a shaft made for it you'll wind up with a nice cue. If the dimensions are good on it for a conversion that's a plus. The hoppe cues are desirable and as more are converted and less show up it will only add to the value. If it's warped it might be more trouble than it's worth. The trouble with these 2 piece cues is the wrap channel. They used thicker leather back then so it kinda screws with the cue. I've seen cue makers cut these cues in pieces and essentially just use the forearm and add their own butt plate and handle. That allows them to shift everything forward if the cue is too small at 29" to do a conversion. If you see a conversion with long points chances are this is why. If it's straight I'd be all over it for a c note.
 
If I find a Hoppe cue just the butt only is it a good buy for $100. When a conversion is done do they use original shaft of just butt.

Buy it!

You have gotten good advice from several people, but they all seem to
be assumming you want a wraples cue.

I've never seen a Hoppe that could not be 'converted' if the forearm were joined to a handle section.

FWIW - the 'brighter' as in, more vibrantly colored veneers, were not
used untill late in the life span of Hoppes - early Hoppes, and even
earlier 26 1/2s have dull colored veneers. Unfortunately, the later
examples tend to have plain point woods, not nearly so much Ebony,
Brazilian, etc.

Dale
 
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he bought it, gave it to me.

its huge in the rear like 1.40 and like .800 up front so with a "little work" it should be a nice cue in a few months or so.
 
Could have tried to sell for a profit but Trent & I made a deal we couldn't refuse. Im happy and the turnaround time for this cue was fast, didnt have it in hand for 2 days! Looking for the next Titleist, hope I can work out more trades like this maybe for a case this time! I have a few connections that clean out basements and houses they will call me everytime any pool related items are found. :thumbup: Trent is a great cuemaker and can't wait to see how he brings that cue back to life!
 
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