Wood lathe

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
My Dilbert cubicle shop is almost complete and I've been playing with the Deluxe. I have a wood lathe that I'd like to put a chuck on so I can use it to do some of the messier work with. I took the finish off a Falcon cue last night that some guy snapped in half at the pool hall and threw on the floor. Good practice but man, did it ever make a mess of my new lathe.

I noticed that there are different sizes of machine chucks available on EBay
from 2" and up that will fit my spindle threads. Either threaded or its a morse taper #2. Does size make a difference as long as the jaws will open wide enuff to accept a maintenance arbor. Is a threaded chuck better or a morse taper for what I'd be using it for.
Thanks.
 
> At the speed you would need for sanding/reconditioning shafts,I wouldn't trust a Morse tapered chuck. The size,as you noted,is irrelevant on this machine,like you said as long as you can get your drive pin in it.

MOST of the wood lathes have a rather small spindle,and therefore flimsy to an extent. You wouldn't want a 20 pound chuck on there,as the weight might cause the spindle to flop a bit,creating vibration.

Chris Hightower can hook you up with one of the Cuesmith chucks. I have a Chinese wood lathe with metric threads that I had adapters made for on each end,and put one of Chris' chucks on the business end,and a small Jacobs on the tailstock. Tommy D.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
My Dilbert cubicle shop is almost complete and I've been playing with the Deluxe. I have a wood lathe that I'd like to put a chuck on so I can use it to do some of the messier work with. I took the finish off a Falcon cue last night that some guy snapped in half at the pool hall and threw on the floor. Good practice but man, did it ever make a mess of my new lathe.

I noticed that there are different sizes of machine chucks available on EBay
from 2" and up that will fit my spindle threads. Either threaded or its a morse taper #2. Does size make a difference as long as the jaws will open wide enuff to accept a maintenance arbor. Is a threaded chuck better or a morse taper for what I'd be using it for.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
If your threads are 1x8 like mine you can get the chuck from Chris and the 3/4x16 adapter from penn state industries.
 
I checked and thats the thread. I don't understand regarding the 3/4 X 16 adapter tho. Is that what Chris's chuck is?
 
Last edited:
Blue Hog ridr said:
I checked and thats the thread. I don't understand regarding the 3/4 X 16 adapter tho. Is that what Chris's chuck is?
Click to expand...

Why use an adapter if you don't have to.
Taig sells 1 x 8 chucks direct. I have a similar chuck with the infamous 'Tommy Bars', and would advise you avoid them.
They are a pain. You can find 1 x 8 chucks on Fleabay that
use the "T" style key.

Dale<not a fan of the Tommy bars>
 
> Chris told me that he had them in either 3/4-16 or 1"-8. I had my adapters made for 3/4-16,as the spindle on my machine was 18mm-2.5.

My only complaint about this fine product,and almost an irrelevant one,is the rod Chris supplies with the chuck as the tightening tool. His eventually bent on me,but I solved that by making one out of drill rod,and hardening it.

That Grizzly one linked above sure looks nice,esp at that price. Tommy D.
 
Funny you should say that Tommy. The first thing I did on the Deluxe was to check the tailstock for alignment. I cut off a piece of a broken shaft, tapered it and bored it to fit the tommy bar and made a nice handle.
I know it sounds minor but I've never worked on a real metal lathe before so it was my first job.
 
If you are using this mainly for sanding and finishing (although I don't suggest doing these two operations on the same lathe due to dust issues), I would suggest a (very cheap) Morse taper dead center for your spindle and a live center for the tail stock.

You can then run your cue on centers and the dead center in the head stock is more than adequate to drive the cue on a live tail stock center without a drive dog (I do most of my turning this way myself, although I use a brass center running in a Hardinge collet).

Keep is simple, and it will probably run truer than a threaded adapter plate to boot (not that it is critical to apply a finish). Plus less mass for faster start and stopping.

Just a thought...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top